Fj1200 buggy, no spark.

[Fj1200buggy]

Could be....what setting are you on?

Fix the ground fault (or short) on the alternator first. You can damage your electronics.

As else fails, revert back to the stock TCI and see if the problem persists.

So is it a ground fault?

I dont know if the alternator caused my stock electronics to break, I basically redid most of the wiring for the new system...

I dont have a working stock TCI, I had the Dyna set on 1 and 3.

[Pat Conlon]

...or short.......Something's blowing your main fuse.

Do you have a factory workshop manual yet?

[Fj1200buggy]

Could it be caused by a bad regulator?
No, I dont have a workshop manual.

[Pat Conlon]

I've not heard of a bad regulator ever causing the main fuse to blow.

[Fj1200buggy]

I tested if the alternator was charging today, it reads 15.7V at high idle. The main fuse gets very hot, starts melting.....
I also did the coil relay mod.

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, 15.7 volts is much too high....time for a new voltage regulator.
Check all wires going to the generator....especially the field wire.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8788.msg86976
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8635.msg80450

[Fj1200buggy]

Thanks for the quick reply, someone told me I can use a bridge rectifier/diode bridge that drops the volts by 0.6 or 1.2V, could that work?
Do the volts go up when the revs go up?

[movenon]

Yep, 15.7 volts is much too high....time for a new voltage regulator.
Check all wires going to the generator....especially the field wire.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8788.msg86976
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8635.msg80450

+1
Max you should see is 15 volts. 15.7 will damage/distroy your battery in time. Plus you are working your generator (more heat).  I have just recently ordered an adjustable voltage regulator and thanks to the Unipods there is lots of room to remote mount.  

For my application I want the adjustability as I am tinkering with the system.  If you do not need that then you can just use a fixed voltage regulator.
George

[movenon]

Thanks for the quick reply, someone told me I can use a bridge rectifier/diode bridge that drops the volts by 0.6 or 1.2V, could that work?
Do the volts go up when the revs go up?

Yes you can drop the voltage, BUT that isn't fixing the root of the problem.  As I see it your generator will still see almost 16 volts kicking out and your generator or and voltage regulator will fail.

sorry , didn't mean to interrupt the flow of things.  Advise,  make sure you have a good battery, electrical connects and replace the voltage regulator.  Putting dike in front of a leaky dam is going to fix the problem.
George

[Pat Conlon]

Yep, I agree with George. Don't half ass it. Do it right. Get a new VR.

I like the remote mounted Transpo regulators. It gets the unit away from the engine vibrations and heat....and it's output voltage is adjustable. (14.2 volts keeps my AGM's happy)

See the File Section....follow the instructions.

As we said before....Check your wiring and esp. the field wire.

[fj1289]

I'm entering this a bit late - but would like to add a couple things.

First, from he dates on the posts, I'm guessing this buggy hasn't been run in several months.  As a result, the carbs have to be cleaned well because they will have gummed up and the idle circuits are the first to go.  The files section has some very good write ups on carb cleaning and jetting. 

Here's a link to a legends car wiring diagram.  http://loosenuts.com/Legends-Car-Wiring-Diagram.html
Do you have a diagram for how your buggy is wired?   My gut feeling is most of your issues (other than the idling issue) are related to the wiring.  I've had to work a lot of bugs out of the harness I built for the drag bike. Poor connections will have you chasing your tail and scratching your head - been there done that!  Also, make sure the alternator is wired properly.  I know someone (I think derbybrit) solved an overvoltage problem by running an additional wire? or heavier wire? to the voltage regulator to fix a problem where it doesn't read the full voltage the alternator is putting out.  But like has already been said - definitely fix the overvoltage issue -- it is a common failure point on these engines.

Keep at it and good luck!  Any pics of the buggy?

[Fj1200buggy]

Thanks, I just checked the wiring again, the alternator wires have a bad soldered spot on them....ill fix that tomorrow.
I did clean the carbs after this happened  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fB9NB6OEczc
I have another question, about the tach. With the stock ignition ect. the engine would die as soon as I connected the tach to the coil, will it be safe to try it again or could it damage my new system?
Ill post some pictures of the buggy over the weekend after everything is sorted and in place (hopefully).
Here are a few pictures of it when it had the 1968 Mini 1275 engine in.

[Fj1200buggy]

Took it for a testdrive sunday, then this happened.....
now I need to replace the shocks and fix a bent driveshaft too

[Pat Conlon]

Ouch....how did that happen?

You do know that air cooled engines, especially big engines like the FJ...need (as in require) air flow...
Something you do not have in the current configuration.
I suggest at least a couple of cooling fans....or a Hank Scott water cooled cylinder.

[oldktmdude]

Ouch....how did that happen?

You do know that air cooled engines, especially big engines like the FJ...need (as in require) air flow...
Something you do not have in the current configuration.
I suggest at least a couple of cooling fans....or a Hank Scott water cooled cylinder.

Or some kind of ducting at the very least!