News:

This forum is run by RPM and donations from members.

It is the donations of the members that help offset the operating cost of the forum. The secondary benefit of being a contributing member is the ability to save big during RPM Holiday sales. For more information please check out this link: Membership has its privileges 

Thank you for your support of the all mighty FJ.

Main Menu

Loctite and torque settings

Started by nurse, May 21, 2013, 02:51:06 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

nurse

Having slotted my ignition rotor plate, I have a couple of questions.

1. The retaining screws were loctited in, do I need to clean the old residue from the screw hole before applying new and replacing?  If so any tips for cleaning it off?

2.  The main rotor bolt was a bitch to get out and ended up a two man job (well one man and his 10yr old son anyway). What if any is the recomended torque setting for it?  (There was no loctite on that component so I shan't use any putting it back unless randy says otherwise!!)

Cheers
A life has been well lived, if you have planted trees under who's shade you do not expect to sit.

I'm told I'm cynical, pessimistic and generally miserable. I say that I'm realistic! The fact that reality sucks is not my fault!

movenon

Quote from: nurse on May 21, 2013, 02:51:06 PM
Having slotted my ignition rotor plate, I have a couple of questions.

1. The retaining screws were loctited in, do I need to clean the old residue from the screw hole before applying new and replacing?  If so any tips for cleaning it off?

2.  The main rotor bolt was a bitch to get out and ended up a two man job (well one man and his 10yr old son anyway). What if any is the recomended torque setting for it?  (There was no loctite on that component so I shan't use any putting it back unless randy says otherwise!!)

Cheers

I just did mine a few days ago. I did not loctite anything going back together. I did throw away the Phillip head screws and went up the Ace hardware and bought 2 nice metric allen head bolts, washers and lock washers. Now it's easy to adjust loosen or tighten... Wish the aftermarket allen head ignition cover plate bolt's weren't so expensive... I would replace those to...  

Timing plate............. 36 ft lbs (rotor)
Pick up coil base....... 4.3 ft lbs
crankshaft end cover .2.9 ft lbs
3-47 service manual :good2: :good2:
George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

nurse

Those cover bolts are steep!

Thanks for the figures!
A life has been well lived, if you have planted trees under who's shade you do not expect to sit.

I'm told I'm cynical, pessimistic and generally miserable. I say that I'm realistic! The fact that reality sucks is not my fault!

racerrad8

Are you guys talking about the cover screws I sell or the O.E. screws?

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

movenon

Quote from: racerrad8 on May 21, 2013, 05:38:56 PM
Are you guys talking about the cover screws I sell or the O.E. screws?

Randy - RPM
They make some aftermarket ones that have allen heads. It has been a while since I looked at them. They might be stainless also. BUT as I remember they wanted around 40 bucks for them. To steep for me.... I guess I should look into modifying the cover so you could use some off the shelf screws.  You just have to prevent water from getting in there. And the stock ones have a shoulder to prevent over TQing and breaking the cover. Another project for another day :).
George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

racerrad8

I have those in stock, stainless steel in either button or taper head versions.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM