Buttery Smooth KooKaLOO On Tap

[Steve_in_Florida]

The other day, I sync'ed up the carbs, then spent today adding a NEW OEM clutch spring to the mix. Buttoned up the engine, then decided to move onto putting the fairing back on (had it removed to lube and tighten the speedometer cable).

Wire wheeled the front fender bolts (rusty) and all the fairing screws (dingy/slightly rusty), and painted them all black.

Took her out for a ride, just to see what a difference the addition of a new clutch spring makes.

HOLY SHIT!!!

I think I found all that Kookaloo I'd misplaced!   

Nothing but RAW FJ POWER on tap now! No more slight slipping of the clutch when I get on the throttle. Unfortunately, there was a lot of traffic on Interstate 4 at the time, so I couldn't REALLY check her out. I did get to (safely) pass a line of cars on Highway 46, and she EASILY hit triple digits on the speedo with NO HESITATION AT ALL.

Doin'  the  KooKaLOO  dance

Man-O-man, if you've got a dodgy (stock) clutch, then this is one fix you HAVE TO TRY!!!

Now I just have to adjust the idle speed down to ~1000 from the 2300 RPM's it's currently running. Task for tomorrow, I think.

I'll now return you to your regularly scheduled show...

Steve

[1tinindian]

My sig. second line.

[ribbert]

then decided to move onto putting the fairing back on (had it removed to lube and tighten the speedometer cable).

Steve

Steve, if you fit you inner cable from the bottom it's much easier to get to.
If you want to access the outer cable at the speedo you can do so, even get pliers onto it, by dropping the horn.

Noel

[Steve_in_Florida]

My sig. second line.

I guess I was "bathing in The Nile" about just how shitty my clutch really was. Who knew?

...then decided to move onto putting the fairing back on (had it removed to lube and tighten the speedometer cable).

Steve

...if you fit you inner cable from the bottom it's much easier to get to.
If you want to access the outer cable at the speedo you can do so, even get pliers onto it, by dropping the horn.

There were ulterior motives for removing it. I wanted to strip the plastics off, just to check up on everything. Lots of squeaks and rattles seem to have gone away, now that it's back together. Plus, I identified some stress cracks that need further attention.

All part of "knowing" my faithful steed!

Besides, I got to try the trick of removing the four bolts on the front subframe to take the fairing off. Pretty effective.

Steve

[Steve_in_Florida]

Replaced the fuel filter today and adjusted the idle. The old filter didn't appear to have EVER been changed. It was old and had a few large particles in it.

Sprayed the rubber fittings for the side panels with silicone lube and lubed the passenger footpegs, rider footpegs, sidestand, sidestand switch, and shifter pivots with WD-40.

Lubed the chain with Bel-Ray chain lube (kinda messy).

Next up: Engine oil/oil filter change, fork oil change, and verify proper chain tension.

[yamaha fj rider]

Steve I bought a new clutch spring this winter and after reading your post it has motivated me to get busy installing it. I don't think my clutch is slipping but adding a second spring can't hurt. Thank you for posting this.

Kurt

[Steve_in_Florida]

I bought a new clutch spring this winter and after reading your post it has motivated me to get busy installing it.

It couldn't have been easier. The hardest/most time-consuming part was removing all traces of the old clutch cover gasket.

Remember to remove and discard the "assembly wire" per the instructions in this post:

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

Quit talking/posting about it; Get out & DO IT!!!   

Good luck!

Steve

[yamaha fj rider]

Remember to remove and discard the "assembly wire" per the instructions in this post:

Yes Steve will do, thanks again. I have been working on the FJ weeks now, it started with wanting a seventeen inch rear wheel, I now have a  3.5x17 front wheel and 17x5.5 rear, thunder ace swingarm, along with other goodies. I have been painting things and getting ready for the big change over. Hopefully in about the next week or two I will have this done. Trying to get ready for WCR.

Kurt     

[Steve_in_Florida]

I have been working on the FJ weeks now...

Just as long as you aren't IGNORING her!   

[yamaha fj rider]

Just as long as you aren't IGNORING her!

Very little chance of that.

Kurt

[ribbert]

Steve I bought a new clutch spring this winter and after reading your post it has motivated me to get busy installing it. I don't think my clutch is slipping but adding a second spring can't hurt. Thank you for posting this.

Kurt

Kurt, did you also read this part of Steve's post:

but my clutch lever _IS_ noticeably firmer, and tedious to hold in for long periods (traffic lights). I reckon that I need to start using one of those "grip firmer" spring-exercise tools!

My loathing of sarcasm prevents me from suggesting doubling up on the return spring on the carbys and have matching heavy controls on both sides.

Given we are all entitled to an opinion on the forum, here's mine:


I just don't get this additional clutch spring mod. If you clutch isn't slipping it doesn't need it, if it is slipping it needs replacing.
The notion of increasing the pressure to overcome a worn clutch and then replacing the m/c to cope with the extra force required to operate it is a very convoluted and expensive way to get around replacing a worn out part.
If the clutch on your car wears out you don't install a heavy duty pressure plate to compensate and then weld a couple of inches to the pedal to overcome the extra force required, you replace the clutch because it's worn out.
This fix seems to have taken on a life of its own here. It's a bandaid fix.
It is not like they left the factory with a weak clutch. These clutches were more than adequate for the first 100,000 km's or so and replacing the worn parts will return it to that condition.
Clutches, like disc pads are consumables and it's normal for them to wear out and need replacing.
Unlike a dry clutch, thickness alone is not the only indicator of wear.
Wet clutches become impregnated over time with crud and maybe even oil additives and lose some of their friction qualities
For decades the standard fix for a slipping bike clutch is a new set of fibres, in many cases not even the spring. This will fix 99% of bikes.
The exceptions to this would be engines that have a substantial increase in power and bikes running synthetic oil.
Other than component location, the principal of operation of the mechanicals, hydraulics, fuelling and electricals  are the same on the FJ as most other bikes and cars and there is no reason to treat a worn out clutch any differently.

Rant over, bring on the rebuttals.

Noel

This is not aimed at you Kurt, your post just happened to be the one that pushed the button.

[Steve_in_Florida]

Granted, the "proper" fix would be to replace the fiber discs, (probably) the clutch spring, and any out-of-spec steel discs.

In my case, my budget would not allow for this kind of expenditure, so I went with a (temporary?) band-aid.

The difference so far has been AMAZING! The bike just _FEELS_ more powerful. Shifting is crisper and smoother than ever before. If I were the type to perform wheelies (I'm not), I'd be wheelie-ing all over town, every chance I got!

In short, I'd been pondering this fix action for a long time, and now wonder why I'd put it off for so long.

It was within my meager budget, and the results are ***ASTOUNDING***.

Your point is taken, Noel, and this is in no way aimed at disrespecting you.

One day, I'll fix it right, but that day is not today.   

Steve

[yamaha fj rider]

This is not aimed at you Kurt, your post just happened to be the one that pushed the button.

Noel no problem, one of the things I like about this forum is the different opinions here. I think the clutch spring on the FJ is a weak point, by adding a second spring to increase pressure on the clutch disks will help deal with weak spot, yes the tradeoff is more force to pull the lever. I am also doing this to try it, find out if my clutch is slipping? When a problem is small you may not notice it, waiting until it's worn and easy noticeable too late. If I think this helps the maybe I will try one of the aftermarket clutch bosses? Adding a second spring is inexpensive and easy to change if I don't like it or is unnecessary. JMHO

Kurt

       

[The General]

If you clutch isn't slipping it doesn't need it, if it is slipping it needs replacing.

The exceptions to this would be engines running synthetic oil.

But, but , but.... doesn`t everyone run synthetic oil? - except when running in a new motor of course.

[Flynt]

The exceptions to this would be engines that have a substantial increase in power and bikes running synthetic oil.

When I first bought my '90 the carbs were fouled and I took to Randy for a rebuild...  8,800mi on the bike and in great shape, just unused.  Had dino oil and a very good condition clutch, about right for the minimal age.  When Randy had finished his magic, the clutch slipped on the test ride at about 6,500 RPM.  We doubled the spring and things were great. 

I think the part you're missing is those springs likely get weak over time.  You might just put a new one in and be fine, but I think the increased clutch lever effort is massively overblown and having a nice strong engagement of the clutch is worth the trade.  I think the original spring was marginal and more biased toward easy lever pull in the first place.

Just my $0.02... 

Frank

BTW - even with the 1349cc monster in my '92, the doubled spring does the trick nicely.