FJR clutch master cylinder switch

[Flynt]

Sounds like a reasonable approach to me.   

I replaced the whole line to the slave, so started from dry condition.  With Randy's help we took the long route and allowed gravity to fill the system from the reservoir while out to lunch I think (it was a while back).  Then some pumping and tapping to get all of the air out.  Took a few minutes, but the process is certainly not rocket science and you can do it many ways.  I use a vacuum pump on the slave/brakes when I do the job at home.

Frank

[Flynt]

Seems that it turns the brake light OFF when it's pulled.

Strange...  I used this brake MC as well and it plugged right in as I recall.  If you don't get it sorted out, I can look mine over when I get the bike back from the dyno (hopefully later this week).

Frank

[craigo]

Seems that it turns the brake light OFF when it's pulled.

Strange...  I used this brake MC as well and it plugged right in as I recall.  If you don't get it sorted out, I can look mine over when I get the bike back from the dyno (hopefully later this week).

Frank

Cool Frank, maybe then I can have a functioning front brake light switch...

CraigO

[Tapartacus]

My brake MC switch just plugged in as well, worked perfectly

[rktmanfj]

Last time I did the clutch I also added a new line and YZF750 m/c.

Trying something new (for me anyway), I filled the slave at the workbench, and bolted it to the bike, then filled the m/c until it was dripping out the bottom end of the line, then bolted it to the slave.

It took less than 5 minutes to bleed the system this way.

Mind you, I was using DOT5, so there was no paint damage and cleanup was easy.   

I've got another one to do soon, and I'll definitely be trying this again.   

[ribbert]

The best way to bleed the clutch is a bit like the oil question. Everbody has a different way they swear by.

Whatever method you use, the clutch line is all uphill from the slave to the master with no pockets to trap air and is quite short and to some extent self / gravity bleeding. Even if you can't get it perfect, it will come good with a bit of use.

The M/C has a return port and with the lever in the resting position fluid and air can be forced (even by mouth if you don't have a syringe with a bit of fluid filled tubing on the slave) back into the M/C.
This way you are working with gravity not against it.

Noel

[Flynt]

allowed gravity to fill the system from the reservoir while out to lunch I think (it was a while back).  Then some pumping and tapping...

Left out a critical bit with this approach.  You need to put a length of tubing on the open slave bleeder and hold it higher than the MC reservoir during the "gravity fill process" such that the air will be forced out by buoyancy in one direction or the other.  This gets out most all of the air and the tapping gets the rest moving.  Then a few pumps to confirm no bubbles and you're done.

How'd I do Randy?   

Frank

[ribbert]

allowed gravity to fill the system from the reservoir while out to lunch I think (it was a while back).  Then some pumping and tapping...

Left out a critical bit with this approach.  You need to put a length of tubing on the open slave bleeder and hold it higher than the MC reservoir during the "gravity fill process" such that the air will be forced out by buoyancy in one direction or the other.  This gets out most all of the air and the tapping gets the rest moving.  Then a few pumps to confirm no bubbles and you're done.

How'd I do Randy?   

Frank

Or just put your mouth over the end of the tube and blow and be done with it in 30 secs. Riding finishes it off better than tapping and pumping because of the vibrations and the constant vertical rise from slave to master will get rid of any remaining air.

Noel

[racerrad8]

How'd I do Randy?   

I don't remember. I use the gravity method, vacuum pump and physical pump of the M/C as well.

If we went to lunch, it probable was the gravity method...

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

One word: MityVac

[keand3]

Looks like one of my photos got deleted so I'll re post.

I forgot to mention I had to cut away some of the material from the the outer pin I used. The diagram is of the middle pin, but the ends of the pins are all the same

Wouldn't it just be easier to remove the top one, and use the middle and lower one insted?

The reason why I ask is because I tried the mod on my FJR M/C but the when I moved the top pin down I does now align up like your did. My middle pin is much taller or higher if you like.

When looking at your picture, the align up fine in center:


But my middle pin bumping the roof if you like..

I have removed every obstacle of plastic so it has a free route, and the pin is not bent or twisted in any way...

Any ideas?
Ken

[Tapartacus]

Hi Ken if you notice in picture I marked where some material of the pin needs to be removed. I used a dremil. Don't remove too much as the pin may break. I believe you have to use the two outside pins because of their contact points. I had the same problem with the pin standing up too high. Try to gently cut a deeper grove so the pin can lay down lower. But I still think you have to remove material. And then of course the pin has to be shortened.

Andrew

[Tapartacus]

Actually if you notice the pin is elbowed and rises up as it exits the case. If you only bend it and not cut out the material at the elbow (in the diagram marked with a red X) then the female end will not be able to push in all the way. Clear as mud? Took me a bit to figure it out myself.

Andrew

[keand3]

Hi Andrew,
Yes I did cut the matrial marked with the red x so that leaves me to believe that i have to lower it futher down in the case by scraping of plastic to push it down.
If not, i might cut it of and weld on the middle one with tin perhaps.
will post an update.


Ken

[Tapartacus]

I debated cutting and welding (soldering) the pieces together. Might be a better and more secure solution. Let us know how it goes.

Cheers
Andrew