IF somebody breaks one of their exhaust studs...

[Goetz]

Does it need to be welded back on or can it be extracted/replaced?

[Anti-Dive Dave]

Hello - that's a bit of a sod huh?

They are all individual studs, and can be removed and replaced. (They are thread fitted)

I would not recommend welding it back on. ALTHOUGH A SMALL SPOT OF WELD TO HOLD THE 2 BITS TOGETHER MAY HELP LEVERAGE IN REMOVING THE OLD STUD!

Still replace with a new stud if you get it out that way!

If there is enough poking out, you might be able to get a grip on it with something.  Heat the stud a little and spray WD40 on it and leave for a few hours - then try loosening again.

But, if it's sheared off flush, you're gonna have to easy-out it, or worse case scenario, drill it out and tap a bigger thread.

I'd go down the "try to extract it by any means possible first" - use a bit of heat (not red hot).  Careful not to break any fins.

When you finially get the stud out, BEFORE fitting the new one, coat the new one with COPPER SLIP GREASE, and that should prevent the stud welding itself to the head in future.

Studs themselves are cheap to buy (only a couple of dollars a piece) and are available from RPM, or ebay.

DON'T FORGET to fit a new exhaust gasket, as the old one will be flat as a pancake and not be a good seal when refitting the collar!

Best of luck.    

[Goetz]

thank you much for the info!! I was seating a set of new exhaust gaskets when i snapped it off, well inside the block.  But it's good to know that its a relatively easy fix.

[Anti-Dive Dave]

.......it's good to know that its a relatively easy fix.

LOL! - well, in THEORY it's meant to be easy (ish) sort off....maybe.

But....you know how things go!  The easiest things can turn out to be the biggest pain in the butt job ever.  

A bit like work bosses who say to you: "can I borrow you for a quick 5 minute job....."

6 hours later, you're still at it.....

Plenty coffee or tea, a sit down to look at it for a while & sort out the order of attack, and then, fingers crossed, it'll be over with before your coffee gets cold.

Deep breaths...don't get angry...never be afraid to admit defeat...and ask for professional help if you think it's not going according to plan!  

H2H

[Goetz]

I have had good results extracting by drilling a smallish hole in the offending object and using a coarse drywall screw to get it out. I am starting to see a pattern with my FJ ownership so far. Happy Riding- Discovery of issue, fix issue, happy riding, discover issue rinse repeat.  Im enjoying the process.

[Pat Conlon]

Good job Dave! Spot on....

[Anti-Dive Dave]

Good job Dave! Spot on....

I'm sorry Pat...I just had a small burst of my rare half-assed "intelligent" moments.

I promise it won't happen again.  It's rare for things like that to happen.  I did get a rather sore head from it though, and could have sworn I heard something "pop" at the back of my head.

Not good.  Need a lie down..... 

[andyb]

While pulling the head to properly affix things in a drill press seems the hard way to do things, it's not as bad as you'd think.  Depending on which one it is, you may want to try pulling the front end off so that you can gain clear access to the studs and ensure that you can keep the drill true.

[fintip]

This is one of my least favorite issues to deal with. Mostly because I am still afraid of drilling. I try desperately not to break stuff. I had one stud break on me once, but was lucky enough to have some left out. I soaked that sucker in penetrating oil and with a mini vice grip was eventually able to tease it out.

There was a test on penetrating oils some time ago, by the way--WD-40 was on the list, but didn't do so well (it works better for other things), but the number one, just a little better than... that really popular one whose name I can't remember right now since I never use it  ... Anyways, the best one was a 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone won by a significant margin. Put that in a spray bottle or get messy and pour it on, maybe try brushing it on. Will definitely help in your tapping efforts.

In the future, anytime you want to remove an exhaust stud, use that mix heavily before hand, multiple times, giving it lots of time to soak. I've been amazed what I've been able to get off that way, things that I was sure would break. Also, anti-seize when they go back on.

Good job on the good attitude, I'd be peeved if I had this happen to me.

[bcguide]

If you have or can make a guide drilling a bolt that is snapped off inside is not to hard to deal with.
Find a friend with a lathe and drill a bolt or bit of rod.  Put the rod in the hole with the snapped off bolt and drill the stud
If you have a drill press you can make a guide. Chuck the bolt or bit of rod in the drill press use the press to center the bolt in a drill vice clamp the bolt down, then loosen the chuck to release the bolt. Now put a drill bit in the chuck and drill out your guide

[movenon]

... Anyways, the best one was a 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone won by a significant margin. Put that in a spray bottle or get messy and pour it on, maybe try brushing it on. Will definitely help in your tapping efforts.

I have also used a product called "Blaster" with good results. Sold at WallyWorld and other auto parts stores. A small amount of heat might help. Have faith it will come out. There are reverse twist drill bits and screw extractors to wedge/tap into a small drilled hole. NAPA is also a good source for information on what is available cheaply as possable to help you out.

[airheadPete]

I'll add my two cents here. What we used in the hanger for penetrating oil was called "Aerokroil"; very good stuff, comes is a squat orange can. What we used for stripped/stuck screws was a particular style of easy-out. Go and get one from the Snap-On truck, they're only a few dollars, the extractor portion is only 5/8 of an inch long or so, (if it's too deep, you'll need the standard style), and it's in a 1/2 inch hex base, so it sits in a shallow socket. I've never seen one of these break, and they're very easy to use. Pre-soak before you go for it. This is a personal fear of mine - my studs look like shit, and I'm afraid of them snapping when I pull my exhaust. As for drywall screws, I've snapped those just screwing plywood together. This is sorta a high-risk operation, it either comes out ok, or it could get really ugly, so give it your best shot on the first attempt. Good luck.

[Goetz]

Yeah, im still sourcing a replacement stud, havent extracted yet. Thanks for the advice! Will get proper tools, and ill start shooting penetrant after rides, while its warm.

[fj1289]

Dave,

If there are a couple threads in the head free, go through the effort to get a guide made.  Then buy some left twist drill bits to drill the stud out with (obviously using a reversable drill!)  The heat from the drilling loosens the stud and should eventually spin it out.  Use light pressure with a small bit first, then go up a size and repeat.  Also as you drill out more of the center of the stud, it also gets weaker and helps the removal process. 

If you can't hread a guide in there, then make a good dimple with a punch in the center of the stud to help the drill begin on center and be careful to drill it out as true as possible -- still using the left twist drill bits as described.

Be careful and work slowly - if you break off a drill bit (or even worse an "easy out" it is almost impossible to remove with common tools. 

Good luck!  and let us know what works for you

Chris W.

[Goetz]

I will make sure i have proper tools before I tackle this one. So far the header is still firmly seated, maybe 120 miles after i broke the stud. Heres hoping it stays that way till I get it all together.