How can I tighten the hidden centre frame bolt on a 1TX ?

[Anti-Dive Dave]

On the 1TX (1987) there is that short bolt inside the frame.

Microfiche section FJ1200 1987 - Frame - part numbers 18: Bolt (Hex Head): 90110-10073-00 and 20: Nut: 90179-10377-00

It is hidden with the metal plastic caps, just above the foot rest hangars.

Now, as my bike had a large bit of threaded rod through it (last owner, not me), it never had the silver caps.

I bought me a set of crash bars, and could not fit them, due to this threaded bar sticking out of the place where the crash bar "cup" sits against the frame.

So....I tracked down the centre bolt and the fancy round nut that goes with it.

QUESTION:  How do I tighten it?  I managed to find a hex socket large enough to fit the bolt end, but I can't tighten the round "nut".

It just spins with the bolt.  As the bolt thread is now right up to the end of the nut, I can't fit a socket or screwdriver inside to "trap it".

Is the nut meant to have a lock washer on it (to "grab" it together and stop it spinning?)

I've tightened it the best I can with what tools I have, but am worried in case it comes loose (bearing in mind now, the bolt and nut is hidden behind the crash bars).

Is the answer loads of thread lock and re-do it?

Or, is it a special Yammy ha ha tool that I'd spend 40 bucks on to just use it once?

Answers on the back of a £50 note and sent to the usual address.....

[jscgdunn]

I would use an impact wrench.


Jeff

[fj12_rider]

why can`t you use a socket on it ? sorry this is an edit I was looking at the wrong bolt . Have you go access with an angled spanner or a pair of grips to get you started . Not knowing the bolt it`s a bit difficult to say . Have you got a haynes manual ? If so what part is it on page 5.3 ?

[fj1289]

Quick reply off the top of my head -- but I think the round "nut" has a small internal hex on one end. You end up having to have a hex drive or allen wrench on both sides of the frame. You may need to flip the round "nut" around to put the internal hex towards the outside.

Cheers
Chris W

[Anti-Dive Dave]

"If so what part is it on page 5.3 ?"

On the haynes manual, the bolt is number 11 and the nut number 5.

Also - to Mr FJ1289, I was successful with a tool big enough to insert into the internal nut end, up until the point of the bolt going all the way in and I lost all available "space" to fit anything.

The nut is on the right way (!!) and has the hex/socket part to the outside.

I just had a thought! - although the manual or microfiche doesn't show it to have any washers, I suppose I can space it out a bit with a couple.  Because the thread of the bolt goes all the way through the nut, I can get away with it - then I can maybe insert something in the end of the nut to grip!

Many thanks! 

AND AS IT IS HIDDEN - All those with crash bars be aware that this bolt is now NOT readily accessible - so maybe a periodic check by removing the crash bars (if fitted) should ensue?  This could also apply to anyone who has not taken off their nice shiny silver frame caps.  Go remove em and check yer bolt!

[fj12_rider]

according to my manual the bolt goes in upside down . is there a hex shape down in the hole on the bolt side of the frame ? if there is then put the bolt on upside down , pull on the bolt as you do it up and job is a good`un

[Anti-Dive Dave]

according to my manual the bolt goes in upside down . is there a hex shape on the bolt side of the frame ?

Although the Haynes Manual for the early frame shows a normal/regular looking nut, the "nut" on my bike (1986/7 1TX) resembles an actual socket (from a wrench set).  The hole in the centre being threaded to take the bolt.

I have to ask....how can a bolt go in "upside down"? 

The bolt I refer to is the one that "hides" behind those nice shiny silver caps on the frame.  It goes in sideways (as per normal frame bolts).  What exactly it is holding together I have no clue!  Does it hold the shock on?  or the rear engine?  I can't see where it goes.  All I know is it fits inside the frame, and dissappears inside about 3 inches either side.  Which is why it's a bugger to tighten, or to get something to "hold" the cylinder type nut at the other end.

As above, I'll have to take the crash bars off again, remove the bolt, apply a couple of washers and a LOT of thread lock to make sure it doesn't come loose and start rattling around inside.   

[Anti-Dive Dave]

according to my manual the bolt goes in upside down . is there a hex shape down in the hole on the bolt side of the frame ? if there is then put the bolt on upside down , pull on the bolt as you do it up and job is a good`un

I'm lost.  Sorry.  (not your fault...it's mine!)  I think it's time for my medication!!

Its obvious that no-one one the planet who rides an eff jay has this problem.  Just me.  Typical.  Why does it always have to be me?  Why wasn't I born with a decent brain like all the other kids?

Heavy sigh......

[fj12_rider]

according to my manual the bolt goes in upside down . is there a hex shape on the bolt side of the frame ?

Although the Haynes Manual for the early frame shows a normal/regular looking nut, the "nut" on my bike (1986/7 1TX) resembles an actual socket (from a wrench set).  The hole in the centre being threaded to take the bolt.

I have to ask....how can a bolt go in "upside down"?  

The bolt I refer to is the one that "hides" behind those nice shiny silver caps on the frame.  It goes in sideways (as per normal frame bolts).  What exactly it is holding together I have no clue!  Does it hold the shock on?  or the rear engine?  I can't see where it goes.  All I know is it fits inside the frame, and dissappears inside about 3 inches either side.  Which is why it's a bugger to tighten, or to get something to "hold" the cylinder type nut at the other end.

As above, I'll have to take the crash bars off again, remove the bolt, apply a couple of washers and a LOT of thread lock to make sure it doesn't come loose and start rattling around inside.  

The bolt acording to my manual is a bolt with a anti slip on ....like this

...

i.e. it wont go in .,...or turn because of the hex ...thats what it should be put in upside down so that the anti slip bit sops the bolt going in the hole ....With out it it`s not holding and will be unsafe..I pesume its that way so you can fit the cap back on

P.s. I have bipolar disorder so it``s not just you ,,hehe

[Anti-Dive Dave]

Ahhh....now then...THATS the nut from the later models.  I now see what yer getting at Sir!

The "nut" on the earlier models literally looks like 12mm "socket" from a wrench set.

It's about an inch and a qrtr long, and is just a shiny metal tube/barrel with a thread in the centre.  Theres nothing on it to "grip" the frame like the nut you have shown me.

Can anyone post a pic of the one I'm trying to describe please?

Part Number: 90179-10377-00

As you posted that picture of YOUR nut, I can maybe now fit a serrated washer to add grip to the whole shedoodle.  That might work.

But then again, seeing as how it's ME, it probably won't.

Another heavy sigh.

[racerman_27410]

Quick reply off the top of my head -- but I think the round "nut" has a small internal hex on one end. You end up having to have a hex drive or allen wrench on both sides of the frame. You may need to flip the round "nut" around to put the internal hex towards the outside.

Cheers
Chris W

this.


KOokaloo!

[flips]

Quick reply off the top of my head -- but I think the round "nut" has a small internal hex on one end. You end up having to have a hex drive or allen wrench on both sides of the frame. You may need to flip the round "nut" around to put the internal hex towards the outside.

Cheers
Chris W

Here's the bolt and nut from my 86 1tx....part 18 & 20.




Hope this helps!

Cheers

Jeff P

[Anti-Dive Dave]

  Hello and goooood mornin to ya Jeff.

Yup - that's the nut I'm referring to (the later FJs have that normal flange nut).

So, as you have the same as me, can I ask how you tightened it?  What do you use to get at it in the frame? (as the bolt and nut and sunk WELL inside the "chamber" of the frame).

I have limited tools, (example: most of my spanners are old BSF and Whitworth owing to the BSA).  I have limited metric, and the hex keys (hex wrench) I have are not long enough to reach inside the frame to get at the bolt.

I do have a half decent socket/ratchet set though, but the hex keys I have are only on a "multi-tool" style layout. Y'know? 8 keys on one swiss-army style fold out.

Anyhoo, after giving up on the hex keys/wrenches, I resorted to getting a large screwdriver (flat blade) for reaching the bolt head, and tried another screwdriver to get between the nut and frame to stop it turning.  (doesn't this American/English drive you up the wall?  We call them Allen keys, you guys call them Hex wrenches.  But, to us, a wrench is a large adjustable spanner, or a "shifter".

What do you guys call a standard socket set? 

But, as for the nut n bolt - It's on, but it's not tight by any means.

Maybe I should invest in a paint spray-gun and a gallon of thread lock-tite.  Cover the whole bike in one go!

[Steve_in_Florida]

Here in Florida, we call this "needing the right tool for the job". The concept *may* be universal, but I'm not sure.

As I recall, I have used an allen/hex head socket with extension and ratchet on one side and a long allen/hex wrench on the other. I believe that his bolt passes through both the frame and the upper rear portion of the engine.

Easy Peasy!

Steve

[fj12_rider]

Here in Florida, we call this "needing the right tool for the job". The concept *may* be universal, but I'm not sure.

As I recall, I have used an allen/hex head socket with extension and ratchet on one side and a long allen/hex wrench on the other. I believe that his bolt passes through both the frame and the upper rear portion of the engine.

Easy Peasy!

Steve

Yeah that concept usually works for me . All you need for that job Dave is an allen key .