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Storage: Drain gas or start frequently

Started by n8man1068, August 25, 2009, 09:54:26 AM

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n8man1068

Howdy all...been off the board for awhile.

I need to start tearing the bike down and fixing it to ride again next year. Would it be better to drain the gas and carbs completely, leave some gas +stabilizer in it, or skip the stabilizer and just start it up for a few minutes once a week?

I'm watching a few ebay auctions for a headlight and gauge cluster. The woman doesn't want me to spend any more money right now, but she doesn't understand that when a certain part comes along that you need, you have to jump on it.

I already have a front fairing, so other than the headlight and gauge cluster, I need turn signals and mounting brackets....the speedo+tac cable, mirrors, and windscreen I can source online later on.
1985 FJ1100
Factory Pro Stage 1 kit
Vance and Hines SS2-R
RaceTech fork springs
Corbin Gunfighter and Lady seat
'86 FJ1200 gas tank

threejagsteve

Unless you want to run it a bit now and then (and will keep after it), a full gas tank = a rust-free gas tank. But I'd shut off the petcock and drain the carbs to minimize varnish buildup.

"If you wanna bark with the big dogs, you can't pee with the puppies!"

FJ Flyer

I wouldn't drain the carbs, the residue will still varnish up some.  Fill the tank, and some Stabil, run it for 5 minutes or so.  Start the thing every now and then.  You should be fine.
Chris P.
'16 FJR1300ES
'87 FJ1200
'76 DT250

Wear your gear.


Dan Filetti

Quote from: FJ Flyer on August 25, 2009, 12:36:27 PM
I wouldn't drain the carbs, the residue will still varnish up some.  Fill the tank, and some Stabil, run it for 5 minutes or so.  Start the thing every now and then.  You should be fine.

That's what I do.

Dan
Live hardy, or go home. 

Mark Olson

Nate, full tank with stabil and full carbs.

kick it over once a month you will be ok.
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

mickarch

If it gets cold where you are and you're just starting it up every once in a while, make sure you let it fully warm and then run awhile longer otherwise you could have condensation issues inside the engine.

-mick

rktmanfj


Welcome back, Nate... :bye:

You feeling better?

Randy T
Indy

rktmanfj


Welcome back, Nate... :bye:

You feeling better?

Randy T
Indy

mst3kguy

if you're going to start it up every once in a while, let the engine and oil get to operating temperature before you turn it off, otherwise moisture condenses and will cause your oil to break down.  keep gas in the tank and the carbs and treat with stabil.
dean
2014 triumph street triple r
2019 ktm 1290 superduke gt

n8man1068

Quote from: rktmanfj on August 25, 2009, 05:44:55 PM

Welcome back, Nate... :bye:

You feeling better?

Randy T
Indy

Much better, thanks. My ankle is still pretty stiff in the morning, and sore by night, but I'm getting around much much better. Still not running any marathons anytime soon though. The rod in my shoulder doesn't feel too good when I lay on my side at night. 6 more months and I can have it removed.

There's an 85 1100 for sale in Stafford, a bit north of me in VA. Still trying to acquire everything to get mine roadworthy again. I might pick up an 82 XJ650 (midnight maxim...my 1st bike) if the woman allows it. I kind of want to get a cruiser to start off on again, since I'm sure I'll be a bit timid of the FJ when I get back on.....but I'll be back on next year, for sure. I hopped up my jeep this month...3" lift. Figured it'd give me something to do this fall.

Trying to make sure I do the FJ right, and not let all of the maintenance I did to it go to waste while I rebuild it. I think I'm going to repaint it black. I love the factory job, but I'm not that good of a painter to get it all matching. Decided to leave the dent in the gas tank as a reminder. Even the woman is talking about getting back on again. :) If you've ever been unfortunate to not be able to ride for a season, you'll understand the pain of feeling a perfect day, and have to drive a car around. sucks!
1985 FJ1100
Factory Pro Stage 1 kit
Vance and Hines SS2-R
RaceTech fork springs
Corbin Gunfighter and Lady seat
'86 FJ1200 gas tank

jvb_ca

Nate..great to hear you're feeling better.
Living here in Ontario, and having to store/winterize my bike every year here is what I do.

Fill tank to the top.
Add appropriate amount of Stabil.
Run bike til warm.Shut off.
Change oil.
Spray/mist down any/all metal bits with WD40 or similar.
Through onto stands.
Remove battery and keep on tender.
Re-top up fuel to the very top.
Toss the cover on it.
3-4 months later, I put the battery back in, hit the starter, and she usually fires right up...and good to go.

I do the same with the snowmobile in the opposite season....what a messed up climate...always seem to be winterizing or summerizing the bike, boat or sled....  :biggrin:

Cheers...Jake
Cheers...Jake
86FJ1200
Ontario

FJ Flyer

If you're sure you won't be able to run it, you might want to pull the plugs and put in bit of oil, or use the Stabil fogging spray, then turn click the starter to turn it over a bit to coat the cylinder walls.
Chris P.
'16 FJR1300ES
'87 FJ1200
'76 DT250

Wear your gear.


cadmanmadman

Yeah, the cool weather is right around the corner and we have to deal with this issue soon.

It is my belief that in the past few years since they have been putting beaucoup ethanol in our fuel everything has gone to hell in a handbasket. I have had literally 100's of various engines that I have stored for over 25+ years now. I have NEVER had so many problems with carbs gumming up in the past couple of years than I have had in the whole rest of my life!.....what changed !!?? I can only attribute this to the new gas formulations. Stabil even has a new green colored formula out there for ethanol based fuels. These are my findings:

1) The old Red colored stabil is barf. Tried it and had 2 carbs gum up on me.
2) How the new green colored stabil will perform is still an unknown to me. Its supposed to be 'for ethanol'....whatever that means.
3) Draining seemed to work in the past but has also seemed to cause problems (could be tied in with #1 above).

I guess if you are going to store inside where it is warm vs outside where it is cold & damp is a factor. Outside you run the risk of rust inside the tank if you drain it.

Also, on 2 occasions I have drained the tank and re-priming the carbs has been an absolute Mo-Fo, another vote for leaving tank filled.

mst3kguy

didn't david ratfart once speak of the problem with draining the carbs was that the o-rings could possibly dry out?  i could'a swore i remember a thread about that long ago...
dean
2014 triumph street triple r
2019 ktm 1290 superduke gt

FJ Flyer

I've also used Marvel Mystery Oil with good results.  Always put a cup or so of it in the 5 gallon gas can for the mowers, etc. 
Chris P.
'16 FJR1300ES
'87 FJ1200
'76 DT250

Wear your gear.