The 'D' rod refered to on the RPM Fork valve instalation guide

nurse · October 09, 2012, 10:09:22 AM

I should ask Randy this directly but i know he will probably pick it up and answer anyway! So for anyone else that happens to know, the installation guides says, "if you have the 'D' rod you will need to cut it....."

Were there certain years that didnt have the 'D' rod, if so which ones?

If i havnt got a 'D' Rod does that therefore mean i dont need to cut anything off?

Any pics of the 'D' rod, i have been through the haynes manual but cant find anything obviously labeled as a D rod.

FJmonkey · October 09, 2012, 10:29:45 AM

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6335.0

The D rod is a D shaped rod that is attached to the top of the fork cap. The D rod goes through the center of the fork and into the damper unit in the lower part of the forks allowing adjustment. With the RPM valves you only need 2" of this rod extending into the forks as the valves now control the damping. Look at the bottom pic of my post.

1tinindian · October 09, 2012, 10:32:26 AM

My 91 did NOT have the damper rod.
This may have been the change over year, as there is no set screw in the lower part of the fork leg to hold a damper rod either.

racerman_27410 · October 09, 2012, 02:48:19 PM

Quote from: 1tinindian on October 09, 2012, 10:32:26 AM
My 91 did NOT have the damper rod.
This may have been the change over year, as there is no set screw in the lower part of the fork leg to hold a damper rod either.

I believe they were phased out after the 88 model year..... only spring preload was adjustable on top of the forks after that.

Kookaloo!

Frank

nurse · October 09, 2012, 04:00:46 PM

Cheers guys for your input! So I'm taking from this that my 93 won't have the rod, therefore the valves sit in and the springs are installed ontop of the valves, the diagram just looks like the springs finishes three or four coils under the spring!

fj11.5 · October 09, 2012, 04:05:55 PM

Yam must have only changed the d rods out in 88 in the states, my 89 front end has it, so does the 89 parked next to mine

nurse · October 09, 2012, 04:59:35 PM

Just read my Haynes manual more clearly, they changed it from 91 onwards (as mentioned before). I have pictured the page with the exploded parts diagram. I will post it up tomorrow as its late now and maybe one of you patient souls can highlight the salient points of what goes where in relation to this. I have not done front suspension before and am quite keen not to fuck it up!

Firehawk068 · October 10, 2012, 01:10:12 AM

My '90 had them........I cut them off when I installed the racetech valves.................

Anybody want to buy a pair of Brand-Used in the box, racetech valves...........So I can buy the RPM valves?

fj11.5 · October 10, 2012, 01:22:39 AM

me, how much for the valves

nurse · October 10, 2012, 02:57:33 AM

Ok so i am assuming that the valves sit at the bottom of No. 6?

Do the springs overlap the valves at all? Does this this then sit on top of or slide into No. 7.?

And i do not need to cut 2" off of anything?

racerrad8 · October 10, 2012, 05:29:30 AM

Quote from: nurse on October 10, 2012, 02:57:33 AM

Ok so i am assuming that the valves sit at the bottom of No. 6?

Do the springs overlap the valves at all? Does this this then sit on top of or slide into No. 7.?

And i do not need to cut 2" off of anything?

For a 93, remove the top caps and the oil drain screws and allow the oil to drain.

Pull the springs and discard. Drop the valves into the forks with the nut up. Drop in the new springs and make sure the forks are fully extended. Measure from the top of the spring to the top of the fork tube.

Adjust the preload adjuster to a middle setting. Measure from the top the seating point to the solid washer used on top of the spring and subtract from the previous fork tube measurement.

Now add 10-15mm for preload and cut the spacers to length.

Remove springs and set the oil level as explained in the instructions. Install the springs and adjusters, handlebars and you are ready to ride.

The only modification required is the cutting of the "D" rod on models that had them. Other than that the measuring and cutting of the spacers is all the is required.

Designed to drop in and go with minimal modifications required.

Randy - RPM

nurse · October 10, 2012, 06:47:32 AM

Quote from: nurse on October 10, 2012, 02:57:33 AM

Ok so i am assuming that the valves sit at the bottom of No. 6?

Do the springs overlap the valves at all? Does this this then sit on top of or slide into No. 7.?

And i do not need to cut 2" off of anything?

try that again

nurse · October 10, 2012, 07:07:20 AM

Cheers Randy. When cutting spacer to length, to which 'spacer' are you refering? (could you refer to exploded diagram!) Im a visual learner!

Sorry im being a completely useless tool on this one!

FJmonkey · October 10, 2012, 07:12:05 AM

Quote from: nurse on October 10, 2012, 07:07:20 AM
Cheers Randy. When cutting spacer to length, to which 'spacer' are you refering? (could you refer to exploded diagram!) Im a visual learner!

Sorry im being a completely useless tool on this one!

The spacer comes with the new springs, just some aluminum tube about the same diameter as the spring. As to your prior post, the valve sits under #6 the spring, only the nut on the valve sits in the spring. And the valve sits on top of #7 inside of #8.

1tinindian · October 10, 2012, 08:14:21 AM

My new springs from RPM had PVC pipe for spacer material.
3/4"

See this thread where I installed mine.
No pictures, but I explain how I determined how big of spacer to make.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6992.msg61800#msg61800
Cheers,
Leon

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The 'D' rod refered to on the RPM Fork valve instalation guide