Prospect purchase

[ribbert]

While old bikes may require many things to be replaced, repaired, tweaked etc,  in almost all cases it's only ONE thing that stopped it running.

Try and keep the excitement in check and take a measured approach to diagnosing why it won't run.

Randomly jumping all over the shop everytime someone makes a suggestion is just going to cost you a lot of money and time.

The leaking carby for instance, this not an uncommon occurrence, particularly if it's sat for a while and dried out and will eventually need to be dealt with. However it won't stop the bike starting and should respond to opening the drain screw and giving the bowl a couple of sharp raps with something metallic, like a l2" length of rod, but must be steel. In most cases once the engine is running (and vibrating) it far less likely to happen again, and if it does, fix it then.

Noel

[oldktmdude]

This is all great info, by the way. Anywhere carb removal is discussed in depth that I can be pointed to look at specifically? Are putting carbs back on this bike difficult in general?

Do yourself a big favour and buy, borrow or steal a workshop manual.     Pete.

[fj11.5]

Carbs fit back on fairly easily, hardest part is getting them in the boots/head mounts , as the rubber isn't soft as it once was, , also easier to fit. The throttle cables on the carbs , if you removed them ,, before you fit carbs to engine,, but if you take two screws out of the white throttle cable connector where the cables are joined , makes things much easier ,, 

[andyb]

This is all great info, by the way. Anywhere carb removal is discussed in depth that I can be pointed to look at specifically? Are putting carbs back on this bike difficult in general?

Do yourself a big favour and buy, borrow or steal a workshop manual.     Pete.

+1.  Not just a haynes/clymer, but a proper yamaha manual.  Very worth it.

(Think about how stupid most dealership wrenches are... the GYSM is why they're able to do complex jobs properly at times.)

[fintip]

I do have the clymers, and for now I think I'll stick with that and this forum and look into a gysm when I get back to Austin.

All advice duly noted.

However, I've never heard the "bang on the carbs (with a foot long piece of steel? Like my ratchet?) to get the floats to stop sticking" piece before. I've always understood that sticking floats meant disassembling the carb bowls and cleaning the float pivots. But I guess I'll give that a try. Just need to go get a jerrycan and some gas.

Will be doing that later today. First I'm going to go downstairs right now and check for spark. Hope it requires the same size socket as my xj did... or actually, there should be a socket in the original tool kit that also came with the bike.

Update later tonight. Really appreciate the help guys.

[FJmonkey]

Tapping/banging on the carbs will cause a slight vibration and hopefully knock any loose bits that happen to get stuck. If the needle or seat is loaded up, it requires manual cleaning to resolve quickly.

[fintip]

I've got spark! Going to go get some gas and fill up the FJ tank now. My screw driver isn't long enough to quite reach the inner two carbs' drain screws, so I just drained the outer two and banged on everything good.

As for the seat... definitely my fault. I've never had a seat lock that functioned, so I didn't remember that crucial bit of information. Luckily, the seat is fine, and luckily, even with the end of the lever broken off, it is still easy to remove. Definitely kicking myself for that one.

[fintip]

Well that was exciting.

So my buddy's parking garage is a basement parking situation. My space is pretty limited--i park behind his car. So, overnight, gas leaks. There's a small puddle around the bike.

So I go get a hose and spray the gas around, and then apart it towards the drain. Then I get a thrown away cardboard box folded up in the trash and use it as an improvised broom to push the water/gas mix to the drain.

Then I take off the tank and walk it to the gas station to fill it up. Take the tank back to the bike. Start putting the bike back together (holy Christ sticking that fuel line back onto the petcock is difficult! What's the trick?).

And then the fire department shows up.

Explosive hazard. After hearing me explain the situation, they tell me to leave, as it could be dangerous. They proceed to start venting the place.

After an hour, they say they've taken measurements and it wasn't ever close to actually reaching explosive levels, that it was just a small drip overnight. I have apologized to the apartment manager and consoled him. And I agree to take my bike somewhere else.

So I wheel it out into the Seattle drizzle and find some curb down the street.

*sigh*.

Anyways. Now I'm going to study putting the tank back on properly... the lines are all very short, so connecting them with the tank that close to on... having some difficulty with that. What are the lines going to the front and back of the tank for?

Now I just have to wait for the rain to let up and hope that some gas and some banging around on the carbs and a new battery was enough. Otherwise, its working on the street for me, it seems.

[fj11.5]

Fingers crossed for her mate, , but its an Fj, she willl run  ,, as for the latch, what side was it, think I have a spare right side latch with key  

[fintip]

It was the right side! Thanks, that'd be super.

And I'm crossing my fingers...

I'm still just all grins. Just coasting it down the hill 'riding' it to the parking spot on the street... the bike is going to be an amazing ride.

[fj11.5]

No worries mate, ill get it out from its house ,, may be able to just change the handel ,, should of tried to run / bump start her down the hill , but not to worry, , not sure about the front hose, must be a usa thing, rear hose is most. Likely a vent , ,

[pdxfj]

Some thing to watch out for when working with the fuel lines and petcock.

First of all the main line off the "Y" routes around the top front of the #3 carb, turns to the right and then behind the two down lines into the carbs.  The end of the main fuel line will rest between the back of the #1 carb and air box.

To attach the very short fuel line make sure you've removed the left side panel and use some thing to hold the back of the tank up a few inches.  Look up under the tank behind the #1 carb and you'll see the fuel line.  If it's been dry for a while you'll have a hard time hooking it back up.  Use some sort of lubricant (dab of oil, WD-40, brake fluid, etc) to lube the inside of the hose and petcock.  A small flashlight will help see how everything lines up under the tank.

Carefully reach up with your fingers and slide the fuel line onto the petcock.  Be careful, the end of the petcock is a pressed fitting and is prone to coming lose.  If it starts to move around, you'll need to secure it with some JB-Weld, saftey wire, etc.  More than one FJ has burned to the ground because of that damn fitting coming lose.

Also don't forget to hook up the vacuum line for the petcock.  Without it you could crank the engine until the battery goes dead and it will never fire.

If you have a longer screwdriver you can use the plastic end of it to tap of the fuel bowls. 

You've got fire, and soon will have fuel.. the bike will start..  Give it full choke and crank for 5-10 seconds and pause.. crank again.. pause.. it does take a bit to fill the flow bowls if they are dry.  If it starts to catch, stop and let off the choke a few clicks and crank again..

[fintip]

I still have plenty of hill to try bump starting her down, the problem is getting her back up if it doesn't work, heh.

The fuel line is properly routed, had read about that. Diagram showing it is still on the bike, too. Sounds like putting it all back together is just a matter of practice.

Petcock is definitely leaky. Means carbs are generally going to be flooded anytime I park. Short term solution for dealing with that?

[pdxfj]

You observe fuel leaking out of the petcock with the tank off?

If that is correct you'll need to drain the tank, remove the petcock and disassemble it.  There are four screws on the side of it that hold the diaphragm, spring and plunger.  Carefully take it apart and you'll find an o-ring on the end of the plunger.

Take it off and go to your local hardware store and look through their selection of o-rings.  You should be able to find a replacement.  Ace Hardware usually has a good selection of such things.

Someone here will remember the exact size of the o-ring..

This is the only way to fix the petcock, short of buying a new one.

[fintip]

I don't have much faith in petcock repair. I know too many people that try it and still have their problem. This petcock has had both its external oval o-ring and its spring replaced by the PO... and yet here we are.

Really don't want to wait for a new petcock to be shipped in, would prefer to just make it to randy in California and do it there. Is that unreasonable? As in, is this going to make starting it after parking every time difficult?

Guess I'll start looking at those prices and shipping times... Anyone have a spare lying around that will get me by temporarily for cheap right now? On a tight budget.

Edit: $173!?!!!!? Why are they so expensive, and the 89 up so much cheaper?! My god! Guess I'll be looking up articles on ptcock repair after all?

And yes, it just dribbles out slowly. Its clearly visible when the tank is off.