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Bleeding clutch on 84 fj 1100

Started by vintie, October 02, 2012, 02:03:42 AM

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vintie

Hi there guys

Hope this post finds all of you well. Its the start of spring here in South Africa and I just got my FJ 1100 back from the shop. Had new CDI fiied and starter motor was done up. Now I am faced with a new problem. Clutch master cylinder is dry as I have no clutch. How is the best way of bleeding the clutch without making too much of a mess? I have read here anout reverse bleeding. How exactly is that done? Any help will be much appreciated.

Regards to all
Vernon

FJ1100mjk

If you're just beginning your riding season there, you may as well do a rebuild of the clutch hydraulic circuit. At least the slave cylinder. It is not at all that hard to do. Plenty of reference material here on the website. Seek (use the website's search function and files section), and ye shall find. Buy your rebuild kit from RPM or supplier of choice, and go at it. Plenty of help here too, if you get stuck on anything too.

Good luck!
Platinum Zircon-encrusted Gold Member

Iron Balls #00002175
www.ironballs.com


ribbert

Quote from: vintie on October 02, 2012, 02:03:42 AM
Hi there guys

Hope this post finds all of you well. Its the start of spring here in South Africa and I just got my FJ 1100 back from the shop. Had new CDI fiied and starter motor was done up. Now I am faced with a new problem. Clutch master cylinder is dry as I have no clutch. How is the best way of bleeding the clutch without making too much of a mess? I have read here anout reverse bleeding. How exactly is that done? Any help will be much appreciated.

Regards to all
Vernon

Much has been written here about the difficulty of bleeding clutches.

Get a length of clear hose ( about a metre ) that's a push fit over the bleeder nipple, open the nipple and suck on the hose until it's half filled with clean fluid ie. no more bubbles, then close the bleeder.
When finished, lower the open end of the tubing into a cup or something, as long as it's lower than the slave cylinder, then disconnect the other end and the fluid will run into the cup.  Takes about a minute all up and no mess.
Assuming you are on the centre stand, turn the handlebars to the right and it will bring the m/c near level.
Place a large heavy towel or similar all around the m/c area to protect paint and plastic from fluid spill!!!!!!
Do not pump lever vigorously with the lid off.
Make sure the master doesn't run out of fluid, the process doesn't use much as it's a short distance between the master and slave cylinders.
Gravity bleeding, reverse bleeding, pressure bleeding etc all work but this is quick and easy.

I've done this 3 times in the last year ( on different bikes ), works like a dream, have mentioned it several times on the forum and no one has come back an suggested I have brake fluid on the brain.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

FJmonkey

Quote from: ribbert on October 02, 2012, 08:37:16 AM
Much has been written here about the difficulty of bleeding clutches.

Get a length of clear hose ( about a metre ) that's a push fit over the bleeder nipple, open the nipple and suck on the hose until it's half filled with clean fluid ie. no more bubbles, then close the bleeder.
When finished, lower the open end of the tubing into a cup or something, as long as it's lower than the slave cylinder, then disconnect the other end and the fluid will run into the cup.  Takes about a minute all up and no mess.
Assuming you are on the centre stand, turn the handlebars to the right and it will bring the m/c near level.
Place a large heavy towel or similar all around the m/c area to protect paint and plastic from fluid spill!!!!!!
Do not pump lever vigorously with the lid off.
Make sure the master doesn't run out of fluid, the process doesn't use much as it's a short distance between the master and slave cylinders.
Gravity bleeding, reverse bleeding, pressure bleeding etc all work but this is quick and easy.

I've done this 3 times in the last year ( on different bikes ), works like a dream, have mentioned it several times on the forum and no one has come back an suggested I have brake fluid on the brain.

Noel

Same method for me as well, but I use a syringe. Quick and easy.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

SausageNips

What should the ID of the bleeder hose be?
Bike:
85 FJ1100 red/white
- Bored and rebuilt to 1200cc
- Dyna2000 ignition
- Dynajet ported carbs - Stage 3
- K&N individual filters
- Vance & Hines stainless exhaust

FJmonkey

Quote from: SausageNips on June 10, 2015, 08:12:28 AM
What should the ID of the bleeder hose be?

A tight fit, not sure what the tube size is. My tubing came with a bleeding kit like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side