Almost installed new fork seals (FZR-1000 forks)

[zz28zz]

Started around noon and by 5pm I was stumped why I couldn't get the seal in far enough to install the "washer" and snap ring.
Come to find out the "washer" that I removed (along with the aftermarket seal) isn't supposed to be there when using stock seals..
Hopefully after the little one goes to sleep, I can sneak back out to the shop and get my forks back together.

For tomorrow, clean-up the old fork oil build-up on the front calipers/rotors and replace the oil soaked pads.

[zz28zz]

Forks back on today. Discovered the pre-load adj plunger isn't necessarily captive. I had temporarily installed the caps to keep the crap out while installing forks. Added equal amounts of oil to each leg. Noticed the oil took longer to fill the tube on one fork. When I measured the height of fluid it was a few mm higher.   
Tried to fish it out with a magnet, no luck.. Wound up pulling fork back off and pouring oil out, then splash, there's the plunger!!

Front brakes all cleaned-up and new pads installed. Then the bleeding. What a pain. Tried back-filling, suction bleeding, conventional bleeding. Still feels like there's air in the sys. Guess I'll have to ride it around for a couple of days and try bleeding again.

Repaired a couple of small cracks on the upper fairing. Cleaned/lubed speedo cable.

Tomorrow will be carb day. Got a o-ring and allen screw set from RPM to install, then will be testing out my new manometer.

[fj11.5]

did you try bleeding the brakes at the master , usually air trapped in there

[zz28zz]

No I didn't., but that's a good idea.
I'll give it a shot.

[fj11.5]

no worries mate,   

[zz28zz]

I tried bleeding at the master cyl connection. Also tried bleeding at the top of the "T" where the line splits into 2 lines, no luck. Verified the lever adjustment was giving me full travel on the master cyl plunger.

I did notice that when the lever is pulled all the way in then released (during bleeding process) I hear a pop sound abt 1/2 second after the lever is released. Started thinking maybe as the plunger retracts, and it starts re-filling from the reservior, there's a bad spot on the cyl wall that allows air in which would allow the plunger to snap back to its' fully retracted position?
I don't have any signs of leakage at the master cyl..

Maybe I need to re-build the master cyl???

I was reading an older post where they suggested pumping up the lever, then securing it in the actuated position overnight with a big ty-wrap or something similiar. Can someone explain the theory behind this?

[fj11.5]

the tie theory, allowes air to travel up the line, and once the lever is released the air gets sucked into the m/c , , did you unblock the m/c return port, smallest of the two holes in the m/c

[Arnie]

Tying the lever to the grip keeps the brake system pressurized and therefore allows any air bubbles to be smaller.  These smaller bubbles have an easier time migrating up the line and through the connectors to the master cylinder.  When you release the lever the air is able to exit the system.

This works, but really is only that "last step" to get any final remaining air out of the system after you've bled it.

Filling the system from the caliper bleeder(s) up or sucking fluic from those bleeders down does most of the work.
You have to make sure to not let the reservoir get low enough to suck new air into the system.

Arnie

[zz28zz]

Makes perfect sense. Thx for the education.
Ty-wrap is on. Gave the lines a few taps for good measure.

Got my last needle seat o-ring installed (kit was short one o-ring) and set the float levels.
Replaced the intake runner o-rings and carbs are back on.

Started to re-install the upper fairing and notice the metal screen on the left side was barely hanging on.
Got it on the bench and found all the plastic posts that secure the screen are sheered-off.

Started to glue the rubber gasket back on and discovered it has grown and doesn't fit very well.
Trashed the gasket and epoxied the screen on. Hopefully it holds..

Wanted to replace the o-ring in the petcock. It leaks like crazy when "prime" is selected.
Thought I could raise the rear of the tank high enough to remove the petcock without draining fuel, but apparently I have too much fuel and it started to leak out the filler cap.
I'll have to pick up some extra fuel line tomorrow and drain it.

Time for a brew!

[FJmonkey]

Thought I could raise the rear of the tank high enough to remove the petcock without draining fuel, but apparently I have too much fuel and it started to leak out the filler cap.
I'll have to pick up some extra fuel line tomorrow and drain it.

Time for a brew!

Remove the tank and stand it up as end down. If you have 2 Gal or less (maybe even 3) then you can remove the petcock. swapped my old for new last Thursday and had about 1/3 tank. With the ass end down I had no issues removing the petcock. And that fuel valve under the tank as well.....

[SlowOldGuy]

In the PRIME position, the petcock allows free flow of fuel.

IOW, it's supposed to leak like crazy in that position.

DavidR.

[FJmonkey]

In the PRIME position, the petcock allows free flow of fuel.

IOW, it's supposed to leak like crazy in that position.

DavidR.

He might mean that it leaks where it should not. But good point. Did he mean leak as in flowing fuel to the carbs? Or leak as in dripping fuel onto the bike when all the hoses are connected?

[zz28zz]

In the PRIME position, the petcock allows free flow of fuel.

IOW, it's supposed to leak like crazy in that position.

DavidR.

Good one!!!


I believe it was leaking where the rotating knob meets the main body, but it only leaks when set to "prime".
Odd part is while draining with tank on the bench, it only leaked a few drops. When it was on the bike and eng was running, I had a continuous stream running out (of the petcock area ). I didn't raise the tank to see exactly where it was coming from. I was more concerned abt stopping the flow being I'm allergic to eng fires, especially in my shop.
I'll head back out to the shop in a few and remove/disassemble the petcock. Hopefully I find a bad o-ring.

BTW, I did the vacuum test on the petcock where you suck on the vacuum line. Fuel flows and it holds a vacuum.

In regards to the front brake M/C, there a thin metal strip covering the little hole/s in the bottom of the reservior. Do I need to raise that up (to assist air escaping) when I cut the ty-wrap holding the lever in?

[FJmonkey]

I think that is a deflector and keeps the fluid from shooting up when you release the lever. It will not affect the bleeding process. As long as it is not rattling around in the master then leave it be.

[fj11.5]

fluid won't shoot up if the return port is blocked, may only bubble , small port easily blocked