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92 fj1200 fuel/elec-trickery problem

Started by buf, September 23, 2012, 09:29:05 AM

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buf

 :shout: :shout: i recently purchased a 92 fj12 which had sat for a year,due to flat battery i bump started her and went for a spin and immediately fell in love as she pulls like a train and only had 30000 miles on the clock and has been well maintained,the clutch had stuck whilst sitting but freeded itself with a good blast.she was running very sweet untill i took her for a m.o.t certificate the other day....now due to a silly me she got dropped in the driveway on her left side and a bit o fuel leaked out tank,after sitting for a day i fired her up and seemed to be running normal but had a slight splutter which i thot was running outa fuel so switched res on and thot she seemed ok,next day i put fuel in switched back to on and set off for m.o.t certificate,she seemed to choke when getting throttle and was dying on me,with a bit o 1 hand on choke i just got her home and she died,i forgot to mention that before i set off i heard a high pitched whining coming from filler cap(sorry folks).now she just starts on choke and dies as soon as u give her throttle,now since buying her she's been dropped on her left hand side,fuel switch put on reserve and topped up with fuel.....so im guessing its to do with beeing on her side,looks like im gonna have to put her into local dealership which has a dodgy rep for overcharging so any input to give me a good idea of wot the problem could be would be greatly appreciated so i dont get ripped off at dealers...s.o.s  :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2: :dash2:

FJmonkey

Welcome Buf, knocking her over can slosh crap that has been sitting in the bottom of the tank and carb bowls. Sitting for a year is also good way to gum up the carbs unless it was prepped for a long storage first. Your carbs need a real good cleaning, ultrasonic kind of cleaning if you can get it. If not then plenty of soaking and high pressure air, more soaking, more air till all the passages and emulsion tubes are clean. Many here avoid taking their bike back to the Stealer for service, we learn to perform our own services and repairs. Most service related stuff is not difficult, just scary at first. And we then know the work was performed to our own standard, not hoping the pimple faced kid (not even on the planet when your FJ was born) put it back together properly and completely.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Arnie

+1 on what FJMonkey said.

You should probably clean  the whole fuel system starting from the tank and going through the carbs.

If you don't want to get ripped off by a dealer, don't go to a dealer.  Its that simple.
If the rep is already dodgy - stay far, far away.
 
RPM has an inexpensive kit that included great directions for teardown and cleaning of your carbs and has a full set of allen head screws to replace the made of cheese screws Mikuni provided.

The "Reserve" switch only turns the fuel pump on again after the low fuel light is on.  There's no mechanical change made when operating this switch.

Look through the files section here.  Most maintenance procedures are covered very well and a number have lots of good pics as well.  If you get stuck or have a specific question, there are a number of folks here that are willing to help you.

Arnie

buf

 :good2: thanx for the replies guys its much appreciated,and i will get stuck in about her myself,i was just frustated when i posted this as id just broke down and wanted the quick fix as winter is fast approaching here in bonnie scotland,il let you yous know how i get on as im in love with my fj and will be a fj'r for a long time to come as its the comfiest bike my 6ft8in 21stone ass has sat on lol.so cheers fj monkey n arnie thanx for the input,buf :crazy:

buf

heres an update 4 u guys,feeling a bit o a dumbsheeet as m bike is a 89 uk model 3cv and not a 92,i got myself a haynes manual and set about her,it was crap and water in the fuel system that was the culpert,replaced floats etc and used the carb kit from r.p.m,running sweet as and passed her m.o.t cert 1st time :dance2: now since then i havnt used the electrical on/res switch untill yesterday and now the fuel pump is not cutting off,im gona buy a new switch and solenoid but im dreading it being the digital igniter........also as they r so goddamn expensive is it possible to use a igniter from a breakers as long as its off a 3cv,also where is the digatal igniter located? im hoping a new switch should do it..........any input would b great.BUF  :good2:

Arnie

Buf,

The Digital Igniter is on the frame, in the fairing section, left side.
It is not necessarily this at fault, but it might be. ????
The reserve switch should not be a factor.  It just bypasses the "logic" which deprives the fuel pump of power, simulating an out-of-fuel situation.
I'd think the points IN the fuel pump have a greater likelihood of having stuck ON.  OR, if its clicking away madly, maybe the diaphragm is torn or holed.
Should you determine that the Igniter is at fault, a replacement from a breaker could work just fine - as long as its not faulty.  Make sure you have some return or replacement ability from the breaker if the new/old one is faulty.

Arnie 

buf

cheers arnie, i think it may be the points,i dissconnected the battery then re-connectted it and this seems to have cured the problem in the meantime......thanx 4 ur advice its greatly appreciated,il have a proper look for the source when she gets her spring clean/service,but still using her dailly freezing my ass off in bonnie scotland lol,time will tell eh! cheers bud buf :drinks:

buf

happy new year folks the pest is back,my latest hassle is m clutch,when bleeding up ive noticed small air bubbles going backwards,ive been told its the seals on the slave cylender? cant find any wholes in clutch line.....i was getting 800miles b4 bleeding but after a BIG COLD SNAP IN WEATHER i need to get it sorted as its not worth goin out as the clutch packs up after a miserable 10miles.S.O.S     :dash2:

markmartin

I'm guessing it's your slave.  A slave kit from Randy is inexpensive.  It's a fairly common ailment of the FJ.  One of the few ailments though so don't let it get you down.
You've got a Haynes manual, so you'll be set.  It's a straight forward repair.  Take it apart slowly, there's a spring in there.  Also don't start your bike while the slave is apart.  I don't know why anyone would, but still, just don't start it.

Bleeding the clutch can be fussy.  I do the best I can manually , then leave the MC cap loose over night and wire the clutch lever in the pulled position.  Tap the clutch line every couple of hours if you can. Tighten everything up in the morning and (hopfully) you should be good to go.
Mark

The General

  :good: I`d call ya a hero, not a pest, if ya still riding % commuting in Scotland ya big lug. Yeah, start with a slave kit from Randy. (How do ya keep warm & upright?)
`93 with downside up forks.
`78 XS11/1200 with a bit on the side.
Special edition Rocket Ship ZX14R Kwacka

buf

thanx martin uv reassured me and put m mind at ease,got seals 2day  :biggrin:so cheers,as 4 THE GENERAL good winter gear bit theres no escaping cold fingertips,i only use main rds and not to much torque lol and some fosty nites are a no no-BUT I LOVE IT :drinks:

buf

HOLA FJ'Rs....ive got  a warped disc on the front of my 89/90 3cv and finding used ones in good condition is like finding hens teeth-now ive found a new set of wavy discs front and rear for 180 u.k pounds and im hoping to fit them along with braided hoses to boot,basically im hoping some of u have already done this and im lookin for some feedback r.e pros and cons......also my haynes manual doesnt mention the circumference of the front discs...am i right in thinking theyre 298mm? also do any newer yamaha bits off of fazers..r1s swappable..........?other than that she's running like a dream thanx to u folks help and now its spring in scotland YEEEEEEE-HAWWWW BRING IT ON :wacko1:

fj11.5

Hi mate,, if its the cheap wavy discs,  go for it,  myself and others here are using them  :good2:,, as for other parts, grab yourself a set of blue spot calipers r1/ fz1/xjr ect,  all will bolt up,  and get the 14mm brake master cylinder to go with them, or even 16/19mm radial one ,
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

buf

BIG THANX FJ11.5, you have gave me the exact feedback i was hopin for so il treat m baby to some wavys and braided hoses :yahoo: :yahoo: and you've gave me some good ideas for upgrading in the winter,i rode m fj thru a horrendous scottish winter but im not gonna put her thru that again as im still scrubbing and polishing all the salt off the roads off her lol :dash2: gona buy a cheap n nasty big thumper enduro thingy...klr or all the usual suspects.as for m fj i got a good 1 owned by a cop with only 30,000 on her,now 34 lol and such a sweet engine i plan on keeping her forever,ive road all sortsa bikes for 30yrs and this is the 1st bike that ticks all the boxes and the 1st comfy bike my 6ft8 ass has encountered,thanx 4 the feedback,buf :hi:

fj11.5

 No worries mate  :good2:,, were getting your weather now, best part is they don't coat the roads in salt  :i_am_so_happy:,, so no added rust, although the black ice can be a worry.   :bad:,, sounds like you scored a good example
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne