Blue Dots, FZ1 master, and new SS lines installed, can't bleed

[markmartin]

I've got all the components installed, and am trying to bleed the system, but can't seem to get any pressure  to build on the master cylinder to activate the brakes.

The calipers, lines and master were drained/dry  when I installed them.  I hooked it all up, filled the reservoir, and started pumping the lever and bleeding the calipers.  I'm able to get fluid coming out of both nipples, with occasional air bubbles, but went at this for almost two hours with very little progress--getting only fluid now hardly ever an air bubble.  I would pump for about 30 seconds, hold the lever, open the nipple and bleed, shut the nipple, let go of the lever and start the routine again for the opposite side.  Back and forth for almost two hours. I've gone through about 8 or 9 oz of fluid so far.  I did try keeping the lever pulled overnight to see if any air would migrate up to the M/c, but that did not seem to help.

I've read where fluid can be forced up the lines when doing the clutch slave.  Is this possible with the front brakes?  My guess was to get a  large syringe and a clear tubing and force fluid into the calipers through the bleed nipples.  Will this work?   Is there a better way?  

any help would be appreciated,

Thanks

Mark

[93fj1200]

I have had trapped air in the hose that connects the master cylinder. Try cracking the line there.

[Pat Conlon]

Mark, did you buy the FZ1 master used?

[markmartin]

Mark, did you buy the FZ1 master used?

Yes, off ebay, off a 2001 if I remember correctly.  It was a wrecked bike that they had a video of, showed it idling, but had some front end damage and they were parting it out.

It appears to be in good condition... 

Thoughts? 

[Pat Conlon]

1 word: MityVac.....every garage needs one.

[Arnie]

Yes, you can force fluid up from the brake nipples to the master cylinder.  You'll want to wrap some teflon tape around the threads of the brake nipples before you start, and then (as you said) take a syringe with a tube on it and push the fluid in.  If you're running 2 lines from the m/c to the calipers, it should be very easy.  Tap on the lines every so often to help dislodge any bubbles.  When you've got some fluid to the master on both sides, then finish the bleed the normal way.

Arnie

[Pat Conlon]

Reverse bleed *very slowly* or you will get a fountain of that nasty paint eating brake juice out of your m/c......

[markmartin]

I'll try the reverse bleed--slowly--.  I've got 1 line from the M/C going to a splitter FWIW..  Off to the grocery store at lunch time to find a large syringe.

[winddancer]

I'll try the reverse bleed--slowly--.  I've got 1 line from the M/C going to a splitter FWIW..  Off to the grocery store at lunch time to find a large syringe.

try a feed store you will find larger syringe and usually cheaper.

[moparman70]

I had the same issue when I did my brakes -- reverse bleeding the system worked like a charm.  I completely taped the area around the master with lots of towels to cover all exposed area to avoid any damage.  Another item is to replace with new any copper washers as worn washers can be a source of air. 

Pull each caliper off and with the master cyl cap off and bleeder screw tight just slowly push on the pistons.  Have a clear line hooked to the bleeder screw with the line filled with good fluid.   Opening the bleeder screw after you have pushed on the piston will allow more fluid to fill the caliper.  Then you push again .. keep repeating until you don't see any bubbles come out the master cyl.

Stevecc

[firstinlastout]

I just did this and had the same problem even after reverse bleeding. Finally found out the brake lever needed adjusting.

[markmartin]

Just got finished with it.  Seems all good now.  I got the syringe, set it up with tubing and got everything ready to reverse bleed.  I put a clear length of tubing on the nipple with an upward loop, and opened them up to let the excess fluid come out so I could get the syringe on it.  Unlike last night when I would crack the nipple, let some fluid out and then close it, I just left the nipple open.  The fluid kept slowly creeping up the tubing for a couple of minutes,  then bubbles starting coming out readily.  I figured I had nothing to lose, so I depressed the lever a few times every minute or so with both nipples open and hooked to tubing and kept filling the M/C.   I ran the majority of another bottle through it until I had no more bubbles, then bled it normally, and that was it.  Good pressure at the M/C and the calipers seem to be functioning nicely.
Fitted some new pads too.
It's not what I had planned but it seems to have worked!  I can't wait to get the fender etc back on and go for a test drive!

[Dan Filetti]

Congratulations. We'll have the remember this 'wash the bubbles out' technique as another option the next time someone is struggling with bleeding their brakes.

Dan 

[markmartin]

The new front brakes are fantastic.  Responsive, predictable and stop so much better than before, especially since my old rotors had begun to warp and stopping  quickly felt like the front end was coming apart.

The only little quirk is that I've got is a very slight ticking noise that gets more audible when I apply the brakes.  I'm hoping that it will go away as the pads get worn, but no idea if this will happen.  Anyone else experienced this, or have any insight?  FWIW, I fitted the EBC Pro-lite Contour rotors.

[craigo]

Yeah Mark,

It's the rotors and the new pads. When I went with the pro lite rotors, I got a lot of chatter out of them with hard braking. I replaced the Dunlop Roadsmart and the chatter was greatly reduced, but is not gone. I still hear the rotors, but not as badly as before.

I guess what I am trying to say is that it will more than likely improve over time. Your results may vary.

CraigO