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honda f4i rear shock

Started by fj11.5, May 02, 2012, 04:49:27 AM

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chocker

I was wondering about the drilling of the top mount. Would you use a 1/2 inch drill bit because it is 12 mm. This would be slightly bigger than the bolt. Or use a slightly smaller bit and work it around to fit the bolt snugly.

Mark

Yamifj1200

Take the stock upper mounting bolt and measure it with a set of calipers, then find a drill bit thats just a few thousands of an inch larger. I'd say no more than is needed to slide the stock bolt through the F4 shock's upper mount. You don't want any movement on the upper mount.
31/64" is .484" and 12mm is .472" a differance of  .012".  If you have the means try to find a 12mm brill bit that would be best. or use the 31/64'' bit and deal with the .012'' of play . Hope this helps..

Eric M


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"All unattended children will be served an espresso and given a puppy"

Thmsdoyle

 :lol:Well good news! All parts came early, and I had today off soooooooooooooo the F4i shock went in. Took me about 3.5 hrs to complete all. Ok now for some advice, what type of preload are you using on this shock. I just installed it the way it came to me. Rides well, turning response seems a bit crisper than before, is dramatically nicer ride than before. My kidneys liked that :wacko3:. So far I am very pleased for a $68.00 upgrade.
Tommy D.

fj11.5

mine was on the third preload setting when fitted, but I now use it on the lowest setting , better sag , and handles great , I'm about 74 kg 
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

Thmsdoyle

Quote from: Yamifj1200 on August 10, 2012, 02:00:17 PM
Take the stock upper mounting bolt and measure it with a set of calipers, then find a drill bit thats just a few thousands of an inch larger. I'd say no more than is needed to slide the stock bolt through the F4 shock's upper mount. You don't want any movement on the upper mount.
31/64" is .484" and 12mm is .472" a differance of  .012".  If you have the means try to find a 12mm brill bit that would be best. or use the 31/64'' bit and deal with the .012'' of play . Hope this helps..

Eric M

I used a 31/64" drill bit today during this mod. I cannot fell any sloppiness in the linkage at all.
Tommy D.

oldktmdude

   Mine is also set at the lowest preload setting. I'm also around 75 kgs. Comp and rebound are also close to being backed right off. The ride and handling are far superior to the 27 year old original shock. Not to mention the low cost and ease of fitting.  Regards, Pete.
1985 FJ1100 x2 (1 sold)
2009 TDM 900
1980 Kawasaki Z1R Mk11 (sold and still regretting it)
1979 Kawasaki Z650 (sold)
1985 Suzuki GSXR 400 x2 (next project)
2001 KTM 520 exc (sold)
2004 GasGas Ec300
1981 Honda CB 900 F (sold)
1989 Kawasaki GPX 600 Adventure

fj11.5

Sounds pretty close to my settings, if only the front end was as cheap to sort out :good2:
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

chocker

I am going with a 15/32 drill bit. It is 11.91mm. I just have to run a little longer on the hole and test fit the bolt. It should work fine. I'm about 100kg and I was wondering what sort of settings I should use on the shock. Also I was looking into the GSXR rear wheel mod to upgrade to a 17" rim. I was wondering since the profile on the new rim is lower than the old rim can I get away with having a 17" rear wheel and a 16" front wheel.

Mark

fj11.5

Re, wheels,  the early ones had 16" both ends ,shouldnt be too far off
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

FJmonkey

The 17" wheel is larger in diameter but the 17" tires are lower profile and tend to keep the overall diameter similar. You can play with the Gearingcommander web site and put your prior wheel/tire size in and your new one to see the calculated difference.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

chocker

I looked it up and the 17 inch is slightly smaller in diameter. That's good. I was wondering if there is a problem with having a bias play in the front and a radial in the back.

Mark

FJmonkey

Quote from: chocker on August 20, 2012, 09:40:22 PM
I looked it up and the 17 inch is slightly smaller in diameter. That's good. I was wondering if there is a problem with having a bias play in the front and a radial in the back.

Mark
As long as they stick I don't see any problem. But the Radial seems to be the best choice...

Mark
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

chocker

Just put in the shock and the ride is great. I have the dampening set at factory settings and the preload set to 4. I'm 100kg and it seems to work for me. It's really well planted over the bumps. The only real problem I am having is the remote. I placed it with tie wraps hooked up to the original bracket  but it seems to be sliding off. I have to reinforce it. I was wondering if anyone had any picture of what they did for the remote. Also I was wondering how much tension should be on the chain. I verified and it seemed very straight so there doesn't seem to be a problem in that area. There is a little play with the chain but not too much. What is the distance of play there should be.

Thanks,
Mark

fj11.5

there are pics if what I did to fit my remote adjusted and at least one other members way, and I think how he did it works and looks much better than mine , as for chain movement I think its about 15/25 mm from center but its late here , in bed and don't have any yamaha porn with me ( Fj manual )  :lol:
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

Thmsdoyle

Quote from: chocker on August 22, 2012, 07:05:15 AM
Just put in the shock and the ride is great. I have the dampening set at factory settings and the preload set to 4. I'm 100kg and it seems to work for me. It's really well planted over the bumps. The only real problem I am having is the remote. I placed it with tie wraps hooked up to the original bracket  but it seems to be sliding off. I have to reinforce it. I was wondering if anyone had any picture of what they did for the remote. Also I was wondering how much tension should be on the chain. I verified and it seemed very straight so there doesn't seem to be a problem in that area. There is a little play with the chain but not too much. What is the distance of play there should be.

Thanks,
Mark

I made a L shaped bracket that I bolted into the original mount for the old adjuster. I just used a hose clamp to clamp the remote reservoir to the bracket. 600 miles it has not come loose. I would post a picture but I can't seem to figure out how to post it. Give me an Pm with your email and I can send you the pics.
Tommy D.