Learning Curve #1 - The forks

[FJTillDeath]

So the one problem I encountered this weekend while working on the FJ was the forks.

I got the neccassary tools to remove them and take them apart, including making the 2 makeshift tools.

The problem is I could not remove the dampening rod from the fork cap and that is because I did not read my manual correctly.

When I loosened the bottom I did not use the tool to stop the dampening rod at the top from turning. So i seperated the forks eventually and found I could not rempve the dampening rod - I need to remove it to get the oring replaced(i first need to see what oring it is to replace it)

Anyway my question is, can I just reassemble the forks back together and start from the beginning making sure I keep the dampening rod from turning while unskrewing the bottom bolt? And then if I do it that way, will the dampening rod then be removed from the fork cap to give me access to the oring that needs to be replaced?

Otherwise, how the hell do you remove the dampening rod???


Oh and by the way, the fork seal on both forks were very worn out! including the rubber part under the seals. got the new seals on, but still have to sort out the top oring before I can carry on

Extra PS - I am not talking about the oring that sits on the fork cap, those were worn too, but not the cause of my top fork leak, I am talking about the oring circled in the pic below

[FJTillDeath]

I am not sure if the oring is the red circle or the green circle...

[FJTillDeath]

Then onto the second problem I had with the forks.

Apart from the one drain skrews head being stripped, I wasnt too bothered as it was still easy enough to drain the oil from the leaking fork as there wasnt much in it.

First an observation. In the one fork there was pink fork oil(the good fork) in the other there was a greenish blackish oil(bad fork)
Is this normal?

The onto the actual problem. The one fork did not have the washer in the bottom of the fork, no problem I can get another. But for some reason, whoever last worked on the forks put plumbing tape on the bottom of the damper rod bolts(part 27 in the above pic). Why would they do this? And is it fine if I do the same? My guess is no obviously, but I wanted to check what I need to do.

[flips]

Then onto the second problem I had with the forks.

Apart from the one drain skrews head being stripped, I wasnt too bothered as it was still easy enough to drain the oil from the leaking fork as there wasnt much in it.

First an observation. In the one fork there was pink fork oil(the good fork) in the other there was a greenish blackish oil(bad fork)
Is this normal?

The onto the actual problem. The one fork did not have the washer in the bottom of the fork, no problem I can get another. But for some reason, whoever last worked on the forks put plumbing tape on the bottom of the damper rod bolts(part 27 in the above pic). Why would they do this? And is it fine if I do the same? My guess is no obviously, but I wanted to check what I need to do.

Hi Jessie.
The mismatched oil suggests that maybe the previous owner/dealer did a half assed service and "serviced/repaired" only one fork or used atf in one and fork oil in the other.In either case shameful treatment of a beaut fj! and very poor practice.

As to the missing washer I'll refer you back to this post....
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6207.0
You were looking for info regarding fork leaks.The "washer" that is missing is actually described by yamaha as a gasket to stop fork oil leaking out the bottom of the fork around the damper rod bolt.It is made of copper so it is soft and seals as the bolt is tightened.Maybe the last "repairer" lost or broke it and botched it up with plumbers tape.I would order the genuine gasket.Part no 4V4-23158-L0-00 GASKET
Part no 22 on the diagram below for your 3cv forks.(no 26 on the service manual image you posted showing anti dive forks)

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Jeff P

[FJTillDeath]

Ah I see now. I actually found that copper washer (part 22 as you say) on the inside of the fork, although it is very thin.

I will order the parts, probably go to yamaha directly or get a replacement one if I find one.

As to the question you asked in the other post re if its leaking around the fork cap or the actual damping rod: Its leaking by the damping rod all around the inside of the fork cap, no leaks on the outside of the cap, so the oring I need is not part 46 in your diagram

[Arnie]

Jesse,

The long D shaped rod that connects to the fork cap is the damping ADJUSTER rod.  The damping rod is part 14 (41) in that diagram.

Cheers,
Arnie

[SlowOldGuy]

Arnie got you straight on the terminology.

The item circled in red is the top cap o-ring.  The green circle is a washer.

You should not have to disassemble the top cap. 

The tape was probably attempting to seal a leak around the damper rod bolt since the PO didn't use a copper washer under the bole (on the outside of the slider).

DavidR.

[FJTillDeath]

Okay, Im glad I did not have to disassemble the cap bolt assembly, as I could not anyway. I finally got the forks together though. New copper washers for the damp rod bolts. The only thing I didnt put in were wave washers as I didnt see the fork come with them when I took it apart. I assumed becuase it later model lowers it didnt need them?

Either way, no leaks as of yet. I havent actually taken the bike for a ride but its not leaking just by standing anymore.

Im just glad to have the wheel back on and the bike firmly on 2 wheels again. though while I was balancing the bike on the jack I felt what it would be like to wheelie the FJ .

I made sure the seals were in correctly and also put a new oring on the fork bolt assembly for good measure, so we will see how it goes when Im done with the carbs and start the bike up

[FJTillDeath]

Just to sort ssomething out which is bothering me

Yesterday when I was assembling the wheel and everything else together I accidentally broke one of these



From the brakes



I was tightening normally and it just clean snapped in half. I phoned a friend and he said any other skrew would work as long as it had the same thread. So I took a stainless steel one off my wrecked 125cc suzuki. Same thread and length the only difference was the hole in the skrew was slightly lower(or was it higher?) is this gonna matter? Do I now need to go and buy an original oem set, or will the set I have in work?

I havent had a chance to put new fluid in to bleed yet as I was gonna do that tomorrow.

[fj1289]

Not only should it be fine - it is a lot better than using aluminum bolts in a brake system.  Not the place to "save weight" or try to use it for the "pretty colors". 

Good work on sorting some of the questionable mx that has been performed previously