Used Rotella T for the first time...

[Derek Young]

[/quote]

Here is what it says Derek,
API Service CJ-4/SM
It doesn't say " energy conserving" anywhere on the labels, but I'm not sure that it isn't.

Thanks,
Leon
[/quote]
Hmmm.... From what i`ve read, a multi weight oil ending in 30 or less has additives to reduce friction in order to conserve fuel.  I wasn`t aware rotella came in 10w -30.  Have only seen the dino version in 15w-40.  Could be all we get in Canada.  I would recommend using the higher viscosity oil.  From what i have seen, Rotella seems to be the most commonly used non motorcycle specific oil.

Derek

[Harvy]

and now my clutch is slipping.
I had already installed a new clutch spring and added  the larger plate in the rear while removing the fine wire spring.
With the Yamalube I had in it at the time, the clutch worked great, now with this change of oil, it slips even worse  than before working on the clutch!
It's back to Yamalube for me.
Leon

When I switched to Amsoil full synth my clutch slipped as well but only at higher revs. I have less than 1K on the oil and the clutch seems normal again. Original, single, OEM (26+ years old) spring. Give it some time unless it is really bad. And if you do switch back, it may still slip till the synth oil is fully absorbed and your friction plates purge it out. They are like really slow absorbing sponges.

The old "I changed to a different brand/type of oil and now the clutch slips" post!

Exactly why I enquired what the PO used in my bike when I bought it 7 years ago....... "Castrol GTX 20/50 mate" was the answer....... guess what - its still very happily Kookalooing on GTX...... original single OEM spring and NO clutch slip.

Moral to the story.......

Harvy

[Dan Filetti]

guess what - its still very happily Kookalooing on GTX

See, this is the polar opposite to my experiences on exactly that same "Castrol GTX 20/50"  I just went down and checked.  I have the remnants of a 1 gallon contain still sitting on my shelf in the garage.

Harvey, I trust that your FJ runs well on the stuff, but as I have said, my experience with Castrol in the Gixxer, or perhaps more precisely, switching immediately from Rotella to Castrol, was scary-bad.  The switch makes a bigger difference it seems.

Learn something new every day I guess.

Dan

[Dan Filetti]

Strange, I was under the impression that any/all Rotella T was syn.
I guess that's what I get for assuming.

The way I see it, I have 3 choices.
1- Leave the Rotella T in and give it few more miles for whatever reason.
2- Leave the Rotella T in, but add my used clutch spring to my new one and take advantage of my adjustable FJR clutch master cylinder.
3- Dump the Rotella T, add the second clutch spring, clean the clutch plates of all the remaining Rotella T, and switch back to Yamalube.

I'm leaning towards #3.

Well if you dump, you've always got a ready supply of bar oil for your chain saw. -So you got that going for you...

Dan

[markmartin]

Well if you dump, you've always got a ready supply of bar oil for your chain saw. -So you got that going for you...

Dan

I prefer Poulan brand Bar and Chain. It's very sticky.   Oohh, sorry, wrong forum   

[Dan Filetti]

Well if you dump, you've always got a ready supply of bar oil for your chain saw. -So you got that going for you...

Dan

I prefer Poulan brand Bar and Chain. It's very sticky.   Oohh, sorry, wrong forum   

The bar-specific stuff is too thick in the winter, it will not flow.  If you look, they will sell you a 'winter blend' that oh, by the way is roughly the viscosity of 10W40...

My brother uses nothing but used motor oil, winter or summer, and has thousands of hours on his Stihl, so it can not be that bad.

That said, I typically use the saw specific stuff myself.

Dan

[micah360]

Weird... cause 2 days ago I went to walmart and picked up the same stuff that you did (T, non-synthetic).  Then I got home and did more research on it (before I actually changed the oil) and found out that T6 was the stuff to use because it's actually marked "JASO MA" on the back label, which I guess is what to look for when running the oil in a motorcycle? 

I did an oil change with the Rotella T6 5w40 yesterday and the bike shifts noticeably better (I don't know what oil the previous owner was running).  Also, I can find neutral easier now.  Before the oil change it seemed I had to hunt around for neutral once and awhile... now after the T6, it's just right there going down or up in the gears.  So far I like the oil... and the price.

[1tinindian]

Well guys, went with optiion #3, dumped the oil, added the second spring, and put in Yamalube 10-50.
I'm off for a ride now, will report back later.

Leon