oil drain plug

[bigbore2]

jusrt going thru everything before getting my "new" bike back on the road, drained the oil and was wondering if there is a washer that goes on the drain plug.  I looked up in the Yamaha OEM parts diagram but I could not even find the drain plug on the crankcase pic. And a search for oil drain plug turned up nothing.  My Honda Civic uses an aluminum crush washer.

[WhiteBeard]

Yep, you can get them through Randy @ RPM:
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ADPG&cat=39

[bigbore2]

Thanx Whitebeard.

[simi_ed]

The FJ use a similar aluminum washer to the Honda.  IIRC, the washer is a 14mm ID.  I got some a O'Reilly Auto.  I actually prefer the aluminum to Randy's offering (Sorry Randy).

[fj11.5]

maybe the washer is stuck on the sump still

[bigbore2]

No washer on sump or drainplug, just a lack of .... from previous owner.

[andyb]

I'm still a huge fan of using sparkplug washers.  Just don't reuse them.

[RichBaker]

I'm still a huge fan of using sparkplug washers.  Just don't reuse them.

I've been using them for over 25 years (not just on the FJ) and they work great, better than anything else I've tried...  I still have the original, un-needing of repair, oil pan, too.

[SlowOldGuy]

I guess I need to count up the oil changes on my '85.  It's been MANY over the years.  I'm still using the ORIGINAL washer!

I have, however, chosen to ignore the instructions in my GYSM that wants me to torque the bolt to 350 ft-lb (yikes!)

DavidR.

[Dan Filetti]

I guess I need to count up the oil changes on my '85.  It's been MANY over the years.  I'm still using the ORIGINAL washer!

David-

Do you re-anneal the washer before you put it back in, or just slap it back in?

Do tell?

Thanks,

Dan

[SlowOldGuy]

Dan,
It appears to have permanently bonded itself to the drain plug.  I figure from all the oil changes over the years that it has lapped a matched seal against the case and adding a new washer at this point will destroy this unique seal surface that has developed between the parts.  :-)

Why mess with success?  I never liked the "feel" of a crush washer (like on spark plugs), it always feels like the threads are stripping as the washer crushes down.  Gives me the creeps!

I also don't anneal brake line washers.   I use 600 grit to re-surface them to a nice shiny and flat finish, then tighten them down.  So far it has worked every time (even though I stocked up on a good supply of copper washers about 20 years ago, not that it's an indication of OCD or anything like that).    :-)

DavidR.

[bigbore2]

Fj11.5- You called it.  I am a doofus.  When I took off the oil drain plug bolt it looked like it had a shoulder on it, hence no washer in site.  Later with more scrutiny, I realized the "shoulder" was the old washer firmly pressed onto the plug, that took some effort to remove with tools.  I picked up some 14mm washers to use and will be able to use them on my car also, thanx to simi-ed.
Slowoldguy, I know the feeling of threads stripping too,
but on a steel/steel interface that would be unlikely, one would just have to trust the steel. I have felt that on steel/aluminum and steel/ magnesium and its not a good feeling.  I am going to try your 600 grit method for my brakes cause I have to go thru the whole system there.
Dan how are you re-annealing these washers?  That is for aluminum only?

[fj11.5]

lucky guess mate,, glad you worked it out    , i didnt like the oem plug or washer so bought a dimple brand plug, better size hex , and uses two washers

[Dan Filetti]

Dan how are you re-annealing these washers?  That is for aluminum only?

The washers are aluminum.  Re-annealing, from what I've read, involves heating and quenching.

Me, I've never done it, I, unlike David, replace my washers each and every time I change the oil.

Dan

[bigbore2]

Want to keep my plug for the nifty little magnet.  Heating and quenching is easy enough if thats all it takes for annealing.  I always thought heating and quenching metal makes it harder,stronger and more brittle?  Yes/ no?