getting my ducks in a row

[FJTillDeath]

Just to confirm as payday is coming up and I would like to make one quick order from RPM

My fork leak, also discovered a new leak.

To fix this:

I just need the correct oring - available at most hardware stores

this:

I need this part from Randy: http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkR%2FBKit (edit: this kit looks like it services both forks, am I right?) I also need 2 as a set so I can fix the other fork so they dont wear unevenly.
Thats all I need right?

To fix this:
A new leak

Its leaking from what seems right underneath the fork. I was inspecting the fork this morning and as I put my finger underneath it I could immediately feel fork oil. Its enough to leave a small puddle on the ground standing overnight. I checked up the fork to see if the leak came from where the forks mate, but no line leading down, so I assume this is a new leak.

To fix it now: I phoned a friend and he said I would need to rebuild the fork? He said a quick non permanet fix is to get it rechromed?

Any ideas fellow Fjers? Anybody experienced a similar leak?

(edit, I havent checked to see if the skrew is tightly in, but I dont remember it being unskrewed)

[flips]

Hi Jesse.

I'm assuming late model forks 89-
http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1989/FJ1200W/FRONT+FORK/parts.html

Picture 1.Its a bit hard to see the leak your talking about but I think you will need part 19,46 oring and/or 25,55.Is the oil under the plastic damper adjust cap 20,47 or around the top fork cap 18,45 that screws into the inner tube11,38??.I doubt a hardware store is gonna give you the correct size/material.

Picture 2.The rpm link has the seals(parts 7,34), dust caps(parts 9,36),snap rings (parts 6,33) and slides(parts 8,35-12,39).Probable a good idea to do both forks and slides,although you might get away with just the caps/seals  http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkSealKit

Picture 3. I think you might need part 22,49.Is the drain screw leaking? (part 4 ) if so you might need part 3.

Don't take my word for it with these parts as I'm no expert,just my best guess.I' sure a more knowledgeable fjer will point out glaring errors

I'm a bit concerned about the capture nut on your front axle.I think it should screw on further than that.Are the spacers correct?.I think maybe the axle's/spacers are different between the early and late model wheels.Someone here will know .It also looks like the late model caliper brake pads are not contacting the inner surface of the disk by about 5mm.They are designed for the bigger later model disc.Do the pads hang over the outer  top edge of the disc's?.This might be a problem.Maybe you should be on the lookout for a later model wheel.There are a number of different bike model wheels that will fit.Search the forum!...then maybe some blue pot calipers.....

As far as re-chroming,are the inner tubes badly scratched/worn/pitted/corroded around the seals? If not...not necessary....re-chroming may not be all that cheap.

Be carefull if taking the forks apart...the top caps are under spring preload and will push out with surprising force!...nearly knocked out a tooth the first time I did it  

Hope this helps....

Cheers

Jeff P

[FJTillDeath]

Thanks for the advice, they are however early model forks, so 84 or 85.

I will give everything a check when I get gome tonight that you mentioned

When you mention part numbers, are talking off the microfiche?

I didnt go into detail with the first 2 leaks as I have askd members on the forum before so I thought they may remember. I have yet to actually take the fork apart so I am not sure what the inside looks like. Will definitely have a look see

Edit: I have though of upgrading to later model forks, I just prefer to become more knowledgeable on the bike before I attempt anything. Also I prefer to have a better budget so I dont have to leave the FJ non running for long periods

[RichBaker]

The easiest way to figure out where the oil is coming from is to clean all the oil off, then take her for a short ride and re-examine the areas for fresh leakage.... Maybe use some aerosol powder* sprayed on the suspect areas to help localize it, you'll be able to see the tracks easier in the powder.

* For jock itch or athlete's foot....

[racerrad8]

Jesse,

The oil will run down the fork leg and drip from the bottom, there is probably nothing leaking down low. It also runs all over the brake caliper and it look like the bottom of the caliper is wet as well.

You have two options with my two kits; rebuild or re-seal.

Fork Rebuild Kit

Fork Seal Kit

Both kits have the appropriate parts to completely do a set of forks or one FJ, so you would only need to order one.

Since you are so far away and you want to do it correctly, then I recommend the fork rebuild kit. That way if there is worn bushings you do not just replace the seals and have them start leaking after just a short while.

Randy - RPM

[flips]

Thanks for the advice, they are however early model forks, so 84 or 85.

Are you sure they are 84/85 forks??.I'm not seeing the anti dive setup or the 2 pot calipers or the axle clamp bolts.I'm sure you will find the previous owner has change the forks and calipers to later model and kept the early 16 inch wheel.
The numbers in my earlier post are the number on the diagram showing each part not the yamaha part no.

84 forks....

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1984/FJ1100L/FRONT+FORK/parts.html

89 forks.....

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1989/FJ1200W/FRONT+FORK/parts.html


Cheers

Jeff P

[FJ111200]

We've had this conversation before about FJtillDeath's FJ. Here'sa picture that i dug up. It's definately a weird one.

http://lockerz.com/s/120044724   Fork lowers are from another bike. Front calipers are 3CV onwards, wheel is a 16inch with original discs.

[SlowOldGuy]

Looking at the third picture in the original post, it looks like the brake pad wear line is pretty far out on the discs.  I'll bet the late model calipers were shimmed to line up.  Looks like that wear line may be the difference between a 289mm rotor and caliper/mount that's meant for a 298mm rotor?

That is a screw-in axle with a nut on the outside.

DavidR.

[FJTillDeath]

Thanks for the comments guys, but now I am slightly confused(as usual)

So I have the fork lowers of another bike? Will these lowers fit a 17 inch rim or is that something I should check?

I also checked up on the bolt in axle, showed my friend Craig and he said it looks very dodge to him. We inspected closer and did indeed find that the oil had leaked down. That now means I need new break pads?

And Randy - If I have the lowers off of another bike, will your fork rebuild kit still work, by my logic it should still fit?

At DavidR - If I understand you correctly, you are saying that I have the later models calipers on the early models brake disks? This would mean I have less contact from the brake pads than I should? Lastly if I am to replace the brake pads, would I be using the later models brake pads?

I would love to ask the original owner however that may be a bit hard as he isnt with us anymore....I would ask the dealership that gave it to me if they hadnt already told me that everything on the bike was original and belonging to it..

[1tinindian]

That is a screw-in axle with a nut on the outside.

DavidR.

Agreed, that is a locking nut that isn't on the end of the bolt enough to get down to the locking part of the nut.

I'd check to see if the left lower leg threads are stripped out, causing the need for the nut.

Leon

[flips]

So I have the fork lowers of another bike? Will these lowers fit a 17 inch rim or is that something I should check?

I also checked up on the bolt in axle, showed my friend Craig and he said it looks very dodge to him. We inspected closer and did indeed find that the oil had leaked down. That now means I need new break pads?

And Randy - If I have the lowers off of another bike, will your fork rebuild kit still work, by my logic it should still fit?

At DavidR - If I understand you correctly, you are saying that I have the later models calipers on the early models brake disks? This would mean I have less contact from the brake pads than I should? Lastly if I am to replace the brake pads, would I be using the later models brake pads?

Yes you have later model fork lowers with calipers and caliper mounting points designed for 17 inch wheel with larger 298mm disc's.A later model 17 wheel should bolt straight in.Hopefully somewhere on the fork lowers there should be a yamaha part no cast into it for proper identification.You would only have to change the pads if they are contaminated with fork oil or badly worn.I suspect the pads may be hanging over the outside edge of the disc.Pull em out and have a look!.You already have the later model brake pads(older model pads wont fit the later model calipers).The mis-match is the 16 inch wheel with the 289 mm diameter disc.This is why the pads don't properly contact the disc surface.As DavidR mentioned,the calipers & forks are designed for the larger later model 298mm disc.

Assuming you can correctly identify the forks as FJ, Randy's kits will fit.I think you might have the early model axle.Not sure.

Cheers

Jeff P

[FJTillDeath]

Managed to get down there and clean a bunch of the gunk off. I see the left fork on the inside of the fork(side facing the wheel) has a stamp on it saying Y3CV. Nothing on the right fork though.

I can't remember which year the 3CV FJ was but I know it was a 1200. So assuming because it says Y3CV they are indeed lowers off a 1200?

Extra question. When you take off the mudguard, is there suppose to be a piece of steel between the 2 halves that holds them to the mounting bracket? I found one that looks like it has been grinded down a bit(poorly too)- will put a pic up to show, but also noticed I don't have the original mud guard as mine is fully red while others are red and black. Also one of the bolts holding it together is longer than the other 3..its no train smash, but would be interesting to kn what's up haha

PS sorry for typing errors as I'm on my blackberry

Thanks for the help guys

[RichBaker]

3CV is '88-'90... The piece of steel is keeping the fender mounts from breaking off, as Dr. Ratfart has previously explained.

[FJTillDeath]

Thanks