fiber glass

[moonrunnah]

so i have been searching for the chin fairing on my 86 fj1200 and when i do find one they seem to be outrageous (300 + $$) 

so i thought if i take some stiff but flexible wire and bend it the way i want it around the bike i might be able to make a "frame" for the chin scoop and then fiber glass it 

has anyone thought of this, also ive never used fiber glass material etc.  just the fiber hair body fill 
any help will be helpfull  (i wont be able to do this for a while do to weather going from nice and sunny to snowing and frezzing) 

[1tinindian]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250824201356?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[FeralJuggernaut]

I made one for the 1100 out of a sheet of aluminum.    Grew tired of all the plastic ones getting killed by the leaky clutch slave.   If I were to make a replacement, I'd use a thinner gauge sheet to start out.   That said, if you are still looking for a fiberglass project, I would suggest you use a foam block carved down to the inside shape of the chin fairing and maybe use strips or a few 'sheets' of a lower weight F/G.  Build up layers for the strength.  Then use a solvent to 'dissolve' the foam from the inside later after the epoxy has cured.   Could go all out and setup a home made vacuum bag if you want to try an improve the exterior smoothness.    I'd just get the main shape and use a little spot putty and thick primer to get the smoothness covered before final painting.    I use the stand off scale.   If you stand off about 10 feet, it looks pretty good!    One little warning, if it turns out really nice, you will likely get a lot of requests to make more for your new found buddies.   

[moonrunnah]

I made one for the 1100 out of a sheet of aluminum.    Grew tired of all the plastic ones getting killed by the leaky clutch slave.   If I were to make a replacement, I'd use a thinner gauge sheet to start out.   That said, if you are still looking for a fiberglass project, I would suggest you use a foam block carved down to the inside shape of the chin fairing and maybe use strips or a few 'sheets' of a lower weight F/G.  Build up layers for the strength.  Then use a solvent to 'dissolve' the foam from the inside later after the epoxy has cured.   Could go all out and setup a home made vacuum bag if you want to try an improve the exterior smoothness.    I'd just get the main shape and use a little spot putty and thick primer to get the smoothness covered before final painting.    I use the stand off scale.   If you stand off about 10 feet, it looks pretty good!    One little warning, if it turns out really nice, you will likely get a lot of requests to make more for your new found buddies.   

sounds great ill see what i can do when weather warms up as i do not have a heated garage (or any garage for that matter)
when i do ill diffidently post pics

[rktmanfj]

Grew tired of all the plastic ones getting killed by the leaky clutch slave. 

Another argument for using DOT5...       

[moonrunnah]

dot 5 does not hurt plastic....?
what about paint? 

[Dan Filetti]

dot 5 does not hurt plastic....?
what about paint? 

Not damaging to plastic, nor paint, but it IS hygroscopic, feels spongy from the off -and worse as it takes on water, not easy to switch over to, nor is it interchangeable with 3, 4 or 5.1.

But aside from that, it's great stuff...

That said (most of it with tongue firmly in cheek), a number of really smart people on this list have made the switch and will rave about it.

Dan

[rktmanfj]

dot 5 does not hurt plastic....?
what about paint? 

Not damaging to plastic, nor paint, but it IS hygroscopic, feels spongy from the off -and worse as it takes on water, not easy to switch over to, nor is it interchangeable with 3, 4 or 5.1.

But aside from that, it's great stuff...

That said (most of it with tongue firmly in cheek), a number of really smart people on this list have made the switch and will rave about it.

Dan

Negative.       

DOT5 fluid is non-hygroscopic.

Thus, the knock on it is that any water that does end up in the system will pool in one area, and cause corrision.

That said, IME, I have never found the first drop of water in my DOT5 systems.

[Pat Conlon]

Yet

[ribbert]

Grew tired of all the plastic ones getting killed by the leaky clutch slave. 

Another argument for using DOT5...       

A better argument would be, why not fix the leaky slave for $20/30 mins work instead of killing multiple fairings?
Noel

[Klavdy]

so i thought if i take some stiff but flexible wire and bend it the way i want it around the bike i might be able to make a "frame" for the chin scoop and then fiber glass it 

has anyone thought of this, also ive never used fiber glass material etc.  just the fiber hair body fill 
any help will be helpfull 

This sounds interesting, make sure you post plenty of pics.

[moonrunnah]

This sounds interesting, make sure you post plenty of pics.

will do 

"DOT5 fluid is non-hygroscopic"

i did not think so were as it is synthetic
and to switch over you would have flush the system out and make sure its free of dot 3 
plus dot 5 is like 3 times the price of dot3 

[rktmanfj]

Grew tired of all the plastic ones getting killed by the leaky clutch slave. 

Another argument for using DOT5...       

A better argument would be, why not fix the leaky slave for $20/30 mins work instead of killing multiple fairings?
Noel

Because it's not always immediately apparent that there is a leak, and because it's not if, it's when an FJ slave will leak, and the vast majority of owners will wait until there is a leak before rebuilding one.

[tim95621]

So, has anyone tried this chin scoop on Ebay? And does it fit an 86? They claim it fits all years, but is it right for all years?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250824201356?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Tim
Citrus Heights

[weymouth399]

All 1200s, NOT 1100s they are different.

So yes it should fit. No idea how the fitment is or the quality of the fiberglass work.
Maybe a carbon fiber one needs to be made? Any guys out there that do that???

Bob W