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Loose shift lever repair

Started by Dads_FJ, January 27, 2012, 03:39:36 PM

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Pat Conlon

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

hein

Good afternoon FJmonkeyman, I'm responding because I like a good debate.

In a previous post you mentioned " these bushings have a tight tolerance hole for installation" so I think that we can agree on the fact that the hole resizing of the lever is important. Which to me means you still have to finish the re sized bore accurately. Also you stated that the bushing would have to be pressed in. This brings me back to the subject of "home" maching versus "shop" machining. Assuming that the hole is accurate and the bushing installed all that is left is the finishing of the bushing bore. I'm somewhat familiar with PTFE bushings, not even close to what you are, and I agree that honing or reaming will destoy the"slippery surface" However a 1/2 mm.  or approx. .020 clearance  would be considered a sloppy fit by most machinists.

Bring on the wine and cheese.

Hein.
What do you mean, you don't have a lathe?

FJmonkey

Quote from: hein on January 28, 2012, 07:34:29 PM
Good afternoon FJmonkeyman, I'm responding because I like a good debate.

In a previous post you mentioned " these bushings have a tight tolerance hole for installation" so I think that we can agree on the fact that the hole resizing of the lever is important. Which to me means you still have to finish the re sized bore accurately. Also you stated that the bushing would have to be pressed in. This brings me back to the subject of "home" maching versus "shop" machining. Assuming that the hole is accurate and the bushing installed all that is left is the finishing of the bushing bore. I'm somewhat familiar with PTFE bushings, not even close to what you are, and I agree that honing or reaming will destoy the"slippery surface" However a 1/2 mm.  or approx. .020 clearance  would be considered a sloppy fit by most machinists.

Bring on the wine and cheese.
Hein.
Hein, your generosity with the wine and cheese is beyond compare. And anytime we can debate is a good time. The bore size, press fit, burnish after, is all to achieve maximum load capacity. A sloppy fit on a shift lever with a PTFE coated bushing is way better than a good fit on steel on steel. The PTFE does not need any additional lubrication during its life. Looking forward to riding with you at the next rally. 
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

SkyFive


I will be interested in this repair after you all get thekinks worked out. I now have a bushing made from a beer can on my shifter.


hein

Monkeyman, I agree, a sloppy fit using a ptfe coated bushing is better than a tight fit steel to steel. Consider oilite bushing material as an alternative, .001-.002 fit, no rattles and long life.

SkyFive, I've used and always liked "beercan" solutions
What do you mean, you don't have a lathe?

FJmonkey

Quote from: SkyFive on January 28, 2012, 08:05:19 PM
I will be interested in this repair after you all get thekinks worked out. I now have a bushing made from a beer can on my shifter.
The beer can fix Is also quite acceptable, it may not last as long or have a solid feel but it more than makes up for this by being very easy to find materials and installation is easy. Post your pics on the beer can fix for us. We might be on the road without the help of a machine shop or just tighter than a frog's butt on cash for repairs. Lube often and replace the thin shims every 15 6 packs.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

FJmonkey

Quote from: hein on January 28, 2012, 09:47:07 PM
Monkeyman, I agree, a sloppy fit using a ptfe coated bushing is better than a tight fit steel to steel. Consider oilite bushing material as an alternative, .001-.002 fit, no rattles and long life.

SkyFive, I've used and always liked "beercan" solutions
Yep, oilite will will work wonders with a shot of lube every chain lube and be good for years. I like the PTFE solution cuz you don't need to remember to lube it. It stays dry and does not attract dirt and keeps on working. I guess you could add a lube point if you have a chain oil system and tee off that to keep it lubricated. Seems way too complex for the task. I try to avoid the Gold Ruberg approach to problem solving. But it could be fun......
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

rktmanfj

Quote from: SkyFive on January 28, 2012, 08:05:19 PM

I will be interested in this repair after you all get thekinks worked out. I now have a bushing made from a beer can on my shifter.



Polymer-lined beer can?     :biggrin:

FJmonkey

The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

rktmanfj

Quote from: FJmonkey on January 28, 2012, 10:12:01 PM
Quote from: rktmanfj on January 28, 2012, 10:09:47 PM
Polymer-lined beer can?     :biggrin:
WTF are you drinking????

Not me... some of the 'budget brews' come in poly-lined cans.

FJmonkey

Quote from: rktmanfj on January 28, 2012, 10:16:04 PM
Not me... some of the 'budget brews' come in poly-lined cans.
Ok, as long as we don't have any club members drinking any of that cheep ass brew.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Pat Conlon

Quote from: FJmonkey on January 28, 2012, 09:59:02 PM
.... I guess you could add a lube point if you have a chain oil system and tee off that to keep it lubricated. Seems way too complex for the task. .....

There is a indentation on the shaft to hold grease, how about drill an tap (back side) the shifter for a zerk fitting?
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

FJmonkey

Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 29, 2012, 12:02:28 AM
There is a indentation on the shaft to hold grease, how about drill an tap (back side) the shifter for a zerk fitting?
If the PTFE bushing is used then I would not use any lube. It just attracts dirt. The more maintenance free the bike is, the more time we have to keep it polished.  :biggrin:
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Mark Olson

There is always time for lubrication. :yes:
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

FJmonkey

Quote from: Mark Olson on January 29, 2012, 11:38:38 AM
There is always time for lubrication. :yes:
Specially when it's self-lubricating....The bushing that is..... :blush:
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side