Loose shift lever repair

[Dads_FJ]

Shift lever was loose after 29 years of use.  So I installed a bushing (teflon coating in the inside, slick as snot and only about $6.00!)









finished product


I'll let you know how it stands up!

[hein]

A thinwall bushing solution that Pat and I can agree on.

Hein.

[grannyknot]

Dad, where did you get that bushing from? My shift lever is very sloppy and I was thinking of shimming with teflon tape but something off the shelf would be much easier.

[Pat Conlon]

A thinwall bushing solution that Pat and I can agree on.  Hein.

Yes indeedy !!    Very cool John, thank you.

When we get the bushing info, would you mind if I replicated your solution (this post) in our Files section for ease of future reference?

[FJmonkey]

Dad, where did you get that bushing from? My shift lever is very sloppy and I was thinking of shimming with teflon tape but something off the shelf would be much easier.

Looks like a DU bushing from Garlock, we use about 24 million of their product every year. Our sizes are mostly in SAE but some are metric, what is the length? I can supply the Garlock part number to the club. McMaster Carr and Grainger carry them in almost any size.

[Dads_FJ]

Okay, here's what I got... I went to my local bearing supplier in Rochester, MN: http://www.tecindustrialinc.com/  a *very* helpful place, and told them what I was after.  Next day he says come on in and check out what he ordered.  On the box it it seems to be made by INA with a part number of EGB1220-E40 and/or 70384053.  My google search came up with this:

http://medias.ina.de/medias/en!hp.ec.br.pr/EGB..-E40*EGB1220-E40

I hope this makes sense to all you Machinists... I can go back and get more information if this isn't enough.  With the teflon coating on the ID, I can tell this is going to shift like butter!  And no problem Pat, x-fer this to a different area.

John

[FJmonkey]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=fzt90d

McMaster Carr part number 6679K17, $3.38 ea, Grainger sucked for finding it.

[Dads_FJ]

I think somebody with a Bridgeport & a 14mm reamer could make a lot of $$.

[Pat Conlon]

I think somebody with a Bridgeport & a 14mm reamer could make a lot of $$.

John, did you hand ream, via drill bit, the hole in the shifter to 14mm?

[Dads_FJ]

I think somebody with a Bridgeport & a 14mm reamer could make a lot of $$.

John, did you hand ream, via drill bit, the hole in the shifter to 14mm?

Well, *I* didn't.  But here's where the story gets kind of funny.  The bearing was cheap enough... and TEC (where I bought it) said for $30 they could bore the hole in my shifter.  Seems cheap enough, Bridgeports are expensive...   But I can buy a NEW shifter for about $30 from Yamaha... And so I thought about just eating the bushing and purchasing a new shift lever.  I asked a friend of mine who works in the machine shop at work if I couldn't just use a dremmel, and he said bring it over, so I guess first he drilled it then used a 14mm ream, but I'm not sure if it was hand operated or not, I just assumed not... I can ask him next week, I'm taking him out to lunch for the favor 

[FJmonkey]

John, did you hand ream, via drill bit, the hole in the shifter to 14mm?

These bushings have a fairly tight tolerance hole for installation if you follow the manufacturers recommendations. And when you follow them, the bushing needs to be pressed in. If the shaft is also to spec it will not go in or turn very easy. After pressing in the bushing you need to chase it with a burnishing tool that seats and re-sizes it. After that the shaft has a very close fit and smooth wiggle free operation. The PTFE lining makes the joint maintenance free, and for the shift lever, it should last 20 or more years.

Don't worry too much about the shaft size or the burnishing tool. This is required to get the bushing to last under full working load, the shift lever is light duty for the bushing.  Good fix.

[Pat Conlon]

..... the bushing needs to be pressed in. If the shaft is also to spec it will not go in or turn very easy. 

Mark,  I was wondering if freezing the bushing and heating the shift lever would allow the bushing to be seated without a press?
Like using a threaded rod and nut/washer technique like we use on our motor mounts.

[Mark Olson]

..... the bushing needs to be pressed in. If the shaft is also to spec it will not go in or turn very easy. 

Mark,  I was wondering if freezing the bushing and heating the shift lever would allow the bushing to be seated without a press?
Like using a threaded rod and nut/washer technique like we use on our motor mounts.

Bench vise and some sockets if needed.

[hein]

Hi Pat, let me take a shot at this.

  If you have a bench vice you've already got a crude press. You will require a press plug, a stepped piece of metal that will fit into the id of the bushing with a larger step that will support the end of the bushing, and a set of soft jaws for your vice. Line up the bushing to the lever hole, there should be a chamfer on the bushing, insert the press plug into the bushing and put the whole mess between the vice jaws and close the vice until the bushing is seated all the way in.
  As much as I admire and encourage diy solution sometimes the economics don't make sense. I'm fortunate in that I do have a lathe,a mill, a sunnen hone and other assorted equipment. However, if I had to farm out the machining  the $30.00 lever becomes a cheaper solution.
  If one wants to still attempt it at home there are alternatives. Drilling the lever with a twist drill to an accurate dimension is impossible but "sneaking" up to just under the target dimension using twist drills is. The hole would still have to be finished with a pin hone or a reamer. Now the bushing could be installed using the vice method. A pin hone or something similar would still be required to resize the bushing.

Hein.

[FJmonkey]

Hi Pat, let me take a shot at this.

  If you have a bench vice you've already got a crude press. You will require a press plug, a stepped piece of metal that will fit into the id of the bushing with a larger step that will support the end of the bushing, and a set of soft jaws for your vice. Line up the bushing to the lever hole, there should be a chamfer on the bushing, insert the press plug into the bushing and put the whole mess between the vice jaws and close the vice until the bushing is seated all the way in.
  As much as I admire and encourage diy solution sometimes the economics don't make sense. I'm fortunate in that I do have a lathe,a mill, a sunnen hone and other assorted equipment. However, if I had to farm out the machining  the $30.00 lever becomes a cheaper solution.
  If one wants to still attempt it at home there are alternatives. Drilling the lever with a twist drill to an accurate dimension is impossible but "sneaking" up to just under the target dimension using twist drills is. The hole would still have to be finished with a pin hone or a reamer. Now the bushing could be installed using the vice method. A pin hone or something similar would still be required to resize the bushing.

Hein.

It is not necessary to press fit and re-size in this case. The shaft size is 1/2 mm under the bushing ID. It will drop in with less slop than before. No reaming or use of pin hone on these bushings. The PTFE will get removed and you are back to steel on steel. The burnishing tool is a polished rod with a slightly wider shoulder that when pushed through the installed bushing it pushes it back into proper diameter without removing the coating.

Pat, if the shaft size was to spec your solution may work. Cheaper than buying or machining the burnishing tool. On most of our applications the shaft is undersized enough that we don't burnish the bushing. Just press in and assemble.