noisy front sprocket ?????

[Horse]

Hi everyone, my 94 seems to make a small clicking sound when on the stand oiling the chain I pulled the sproket cover, & cleaned the crap out from behind it & the click seems to be comming from the sprocket  Is this a bad thing , I've never heard of a counter shaft bearing failing !!! The chain & sprockets are not badly worn but i ran out of time to take the chain off to check fi it was just the chain    Also my bike has a high pitch & low pitch transmission whine, is the norm for FJ's or what , i realy don't know     Thanks if anyone can set me staight   HORSE

[The General]

Gee horse that`s a tuff one. We`d really need to watch the chain action and listen to ya whining in person. Harvy`s real good at that sort of stuff. Bring it to the entrance of our test track at the dayboro pub, 9 0`clock Thursday.  Doug

[Arnie]

Horse,

Check that the 36mm nut is tight on the countershaft sprocket and that the tabs on the lockwasher are tight.  I've found several c/s sprocket nuts loose over the years on several different bikes.

Arnie

[flips]

Hi Horse,

I would also check if the chain guard is rubbing on the chain.....whats the tension on the chain like...could be rubbing on the swing arm??....hope this helps..

Cheers

Jeff P

[Mark Olson]

chain may be too tight . check it with you sitting on the bike feet up. 

this may require a pal to help unless you are really good at balancing .

[ribbert]

I replaced my front sprocket with an 18 toother at the weekend and was surprised at how much of the "transmission whine" disappeared. I did not think the old one was all that worn.

If I had a click from that area I'd be checking my joining link first.

Noel

[Horse]

Thanks guys, Could be a wet track on thurs. Doug !!! OK, the c/s nut is definatly tight,& chain is about 20 mm slack I think i realy need to take the chain off & spin the sprocket to see where the clicking is  The chain guard & placky guide is also good , the noise is definatly cumin from the sprock. I also think the bit of wear it has is enuff to be causing it  I'll let it whine away , if i dream a little it kinda sounds like a turbo spoolin up !!! Thanks just the same , i think i'll rip the chain and let yas know   

[RichBaker]

IIRC, the book says 30mm slack for the chain....

[andyb]

Though I wouldn't necessarily go by the book spec if you've raised or lowered the rear end via a shock adjustment or dogbone lenth.

[SlowOldGuy]

Measuring static chain slack is like squeezing your tires to check air pressure.  

Put it on the centerstand, pull the lower shock mounting or linkage bolt, rotate the swingarm, and check it at it's tightest spot.  Adjust slack at this point appropriately.

DavidR.

[Horse]

yes David,I used to test my dirt bike that way back in the 80's

[Dan Filetti]

Put it on the centerstand, pull the lower shock mounting or linkage bolt, rotate the swingarm, and check it at it's tightest spot.  Adjust slack at this point appropriately.

Seriously?  You disconnect the suspension to adjust the chain??!!  I gotta figure that is over the top David R. anal-retentiveness.  I have always adjusted the chain with the bike on the side-stand -to ~3/4" of play.  Chains and sprokets routinely last me 8-10 years/ 20K plus miles.  I simply keep it clean with WD40, after most rides, and lube with BelRay chain lube. 

I guess your way is better, but it sure seems like way too much of a PITA.  I'd rather buy a chain in 10 vs 11 years... 

To each thier own though.

Dan

[SlowOldGuy]

Call me OCD.  :-)

I can't remember when the last time was that I needed to even adjust the chain.  I check it this way when changing rear tires and always leave it slightly on the loose side.  Maybe that's why this DID VM (note that it's NOT a ZVM) has never needed an adjustment since I installed it over 20 Kmiles ago.  I mostly only use WD-40 on it, maybe a shot of actual chain lube twice a year (whether it needs it or not).

I also try to be smooth on the throttle.

DavidR.

[andyb]

David is correct actually.  If you've aligned the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle, it's impossible for the chain to be any tighter.  So long as there's a mild amount of vertical deflection available, you're fine.  Once you've gotten everything set to that point, putting the machine in a position with the rear suspension totally unloaded and making a spacer or something so you can absolutely repeat that setting, you can always be insured that you'll never put a chain too tight.  A little loose causes wear, a little tight causes breakage.

Sounds awfully anal to me too though.    I just use a tie strap to lower the back until it bottoms, set it just shy of too tight, and remember what it looks like after releasing things.

Doing the 1" or 3/4" or 20mm at x point crap has always netted me chains that were tight to the point of being unsafe.  After breaking a chain multiple times with the FJ, and learning that the factory service manual for the ZX9R was incorrect, I learned to do things a bit more carefully!!  Hasn't failed me yet, I've needed only a tiny adjustment in eight thousand miles or so on the kawi's chain, and that's after massive amounts of abuse both on the street and at the dragstrip.  I'm very rough on the throttle in normal use (smoother in the twisty bits, mind), and much happier now. 

Of course, this also coincides with getting plated chains and keeping the top layer of filth off with WD40 or whatever's handy.

[bcguide]

I put the bike on the center stand and spin the tire until I find the tight spot in the chain and then adjust the chain.
Scott