Rear Linkage Service

[eddohawk]

Well its time....havent attempted this before and judging by the squeaks coming from my rear end its been many years since my FJ has had its linkages serviced.

My reading suggests that the correct ''general'' sequance is:

Remove exhaust and collector box
Remove rear wheel etc
Remove shock and then the swing arm
Dissassemble and lube linkages etc

I'll also need something to keep the rear of the bike elevated and will have to improvise perhaps with a piece of timber suspended between a couple of step ladders or something.

Anyway I'm half expecting the top shock bolt to be difficult to remove with lots of hammering and swearing and was thinking of trying to loosen it off before I start removing anything else. The bike will be more stable at this stage given the expected fragility of my timber ''frame''.

Hopefully I'm on the right track here any comments or suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Regards

Mark

[rktmanfj]

Well its time....havent attempted this before and judging by the squeaks coming from my rear end its been many years since my FJ has had its linkages serviced.

My reading suggests that the correct ''general'' sequance is:

Remove exhaust and collector box
Remove rear wheel etc
Remove shock and then the swing arm
Dissassemble and lube linkages etc

I'll also need something to keep the rear of the bike elevated and will have to improvise perhaps with a piece of timber suspended between a couple of step ladders or something.

Anyway I'm half expecting the top shock bolt to be difficult to remove with lots of hammering and swearing and was thinking of trying to loosen it off before I start removing anything else. The bike will be more stable at this stage given the expected fragility of my timber ''frame''.

Hopefully I'm on the right track here any comments or suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Regards

Mark

At least on the 3CV, you don't have to completely remove the collector.  Just remove the rear bolt and let it droop.  You should have enough room to get the linkage out okay.  The top shock mount on mine was surprisingly easy to loosen, since I also expected it to be frozen.  The rear of the bike shouldn't need any further support  if you still have the centerstand in place.

[SlowOldGuy]

If you're just greasing the shock linkages, then you don't have to remove the swingarm. 

However, if you're in it up to that point, you might as well go ahead and service the S/A bearings.

Like Randy says, the centerstand will hold the bike up.

DavidR.

[eddohawk]

Thanks for the tips! Its great news the centre stand will be sufficient to keep the bike up once the rear suspension and wheel is removed. Fingers crossed that the top shock bolt wont be to difficult to remove. Yes I was planning to grease the swing arm bearing as well. Just another question.....I assume I should completely diassemble the linkage to grease the various parts as well as inspect for any worn parts?

Regards

Mark

[rktmanfj]

Thanks for the tips! Its great news the centre stand will be sufficient to keep the bike up once the rear suspension and wheel is removed. Fingers crossed that the top shock bolt wont be to difficult to remove. Yes I was planning to grease the swing arm bearing as well. Just another question.....I assume I should completely diassemble the linkage to grease the various parts as well as inspect for any worn parts?

Regards

Mark

If it's squeaking, chances are pretty good you're going to have to replace the bearings and/or sleeves.

They're not hard to replace, but they are fragile enough that they won't tolerate being run dry without significant damage.  Yeah, I know that's true of any bearing, but these rollers are especially small.

About half of the rollers fell out of one of my bearings upon disassembly, completely shot.

One of my winter projects is to clean up, powdercoat, and add grease fittings to the spare relay arm I have on hand.  With any luck, there will be a new Penske to add at the same time.

[FJmonkey]

I have the main Swing Arm bearings if you need them, I got a set thinking I might need them during my GSXR upgrade. The other bearings fell out during the mod...

[eddohawk]

I have the main Swing Arm bearings if you need them, I got a set thinking I might need them during my GSXR upgrade. The other bearings fell out during the mod...

Thanks for the offer mate I'll contact you if I need them. Made ok progress yesterday, the only problem I have atm is a seized lower shock bolt.  I''ve read a few posts with suggestions on how to remove seized linkage bolts so I'll see how I go...it seems persistance and patience is required. The lower bolt isnt as long as the top bolt so drilling it out is an option if all else fails. I'm not inspired to spend up on drill bits just yet though.

[rktmanfj]

Try 50%/ 50% - Acetone / ATF for a penetrating oil.   

[eddohawk]

Hello again

After 5 days of using penetrating oil and some ''vigourous'' tapping I was able to remove the lower shock bolt last night.

I've noticed however that I have err um err managed to bend the dogbone out of shape.

The long section of the dog bone between the upper pivot shaft hole and lower pivot pivot hole is twisted approx 1 inch or so.

I was thinking about heating the twisted section up and then gently bending it back into shape.

I was wondering if this approach has any potential problems in terms of weakening the structural integrity of the dog bone?

Regards

Mark

[andyb]

It'd probably be okay.  But every rough road you ride on between here and there, you'll worry about it, and the fun will go right out.  If the dogbones aren't exactly the same length, things can bind and at the very least wear a bunch faster.

Replace it.  Make your own if you want (good time to change ride height if you're so inclined!) or buy OEM or buy Soupy's fully adjustable links, and you'll be fine.  It's hard to enjoy a bike that you don't quite trust or aren't quite certain of.

[Arnie]

What year is your FJ ?  It doesn't sound to me that you are describing the dogbones, but rather the cast rocker (or relay) link in the earlier bikes' suspension.  Can you put up a URL or parts diagram to show which bit you've bent?

Cheers,
Arnie

[FJmonkey]

I was thinking about heating the twisted section up and then gently bending it back into shape.
I was wondering if this approach has any potential problems in terms of weakening the structural integrity of the dog bone?

Once metal has been bent and bent back again it is weaker than before. The nature of bending metal means one side is trying to compress and the other side is stretching. It is harder to compress so more of the metal thickness is stretched. Bending it back just stretches the other side and now you have thinner (weaker) spots in the metal. Some harder metals don't like to bend and get micro fractures during bending. Even harder metals don't bend at all and just shatter. For peace of mind, like Andy stated, get new ones. Stay safe when Kookalooing.

[eddohawk]

Thanks for your advice everyone.

Arnie, I have a 1990 3cv and yes the correct description of the bent part is the linkage arm. It does sound as though trying to straighten back a cast part could be dodgy and for the piece of mind I probably should look for a new or used replacement. I'll check the price with my yamaha dealer tomorrow or perhaps even call a few part out places/wreckers. If I have trouble locating one hopefully someone in the club can help me out here.

Regards

Mark

[eddohawk]

Hello again

Would appreciate some advice with this query please. After inspecting the needle bearings in the linkage (the lower part where the shock bolts on to) I think both need replacing. They both rotate ok but not that smoothly even after squirting in some penetrating oil. Also there is some sideways movement in the inner section which holds the needle bearing and the outer part. (apologies for the high tech description..after all I am an accountant).  My Clymers says that the bearings should be replaced using a press or by the dealer. Is there a DYI approach or should I stop being a tight arse and get the yamaha man to do this for me.

Regards

Mark

[FJmonkey]

Hello again
Would appreciate some advice with this query please. After inspecting the needle bearings in the linkage (the lower part where the shock bolts on to) I think both need replacing. They both rotate ok but not that smoothly even after squirting in some penetrating oil. Also there is some sideways movement in the inner section which holds the needle bearing and the outer part. (apologies for the high tech description..after all I am an accountant).  My Clymers says that the bearings should be replaced using a press or by the dealer. Is there a DYI approach or should I stop being a tight arse and get the yamaha man to do this for me.
Regards
Mark

While not an accountant I would like to give you kudos for reaching outside of your numbers box. The accountants I know are far from knowing the joy of the FJ. The bearings in the linkages need to be pressed in and or out of their normal positions. While this is not rocket science it does require some basic mechanical knowledge. I wish I could just ride over and help (I work for beer). Once done you will never need this kind of help again. You need to find a few items to make this work. Think of one side of the bearing as the push side, the other the out side. Many of us find a socket that is slightly smaller than the larger size of the bearing. This goes on the push side. The out side gets a much larger size socket larger than the outside of the bearing. Now picture a clamp that can push the socket on the push side. While applying a clamp to force the socket on the push side into the bearing and through the link and into the out side socket on the other side of the clamp. Putting the new bearing in the same process. Just remember to not push the bearing too far. The seals need equal room on each side. If you push it too far then push it out and do it again.  Pictures would be so much better here and I missed my chance when I changed my bearings. Others may jump in with better info.