leaking fuel

[FJTillDeath]

I know this is similar to the carbs dumping fuel topic but I think my situation is different. About a week ago my bike was knocked over (some may know who have read the shame of it post) n the bike leaked petrol. I sorted the problem but now a week later its leaking again but from the other side and the only thing I cank it being was a pothole I went over. Basicaly I checked to see if all the pipes were in place but they still are. The bike won't start this morning but whenever I try to turn it on this morning the fuel started leaking again down the side of the bike but worse. I am thinking its leaking from the needle and seat but becos its raining today and I don't have proper cover I have had to abandon repairing it. I just wanna know what anybody else thinks the problems could be before I tackle the carbs? The bike is misfiring as well so I am thinking its burning petrol in the exhaust. Also the headlight has fused so I wanna ask what the easiest way to replace that would be? Sorry for the crappy way this topic is set out but I have to do it off my phone? Anybody with help and insight on the matter? I don't have much time as I have to work today as well and from what I heard its gonna rain the whole weekend so I need the quickest possible solutions. As I said I have checked for loose pipes but that's all the chance I've had for. Thanks

[RichBaker]

The leaking is probably due to bad o-rings sealing the inlet needle seat to the carb body, you have to pull the carbs and remove the seat to replace it (each carb). If not that, a float can leak and get heavy (not common, especially the plastic floats) from the fuel in it, the only way to find that is to weigh each float, and compare them....
Have you tried rapping on the float bowls with a hammer handle or screwdriver handle?  If the float(s) are just sticking, that will usually free them.
It could also be debris, such as dirt or rust particles between the needle and seat. You can usually flush the seat by opening the drain screws on the bottom of the float bowls, then turning on the gas and let it flow, into a suitable container, of course.

Good luck....

[FJTillDeath]

Thanks rich I think it is the second thing u mentioned as the first time I had the problem I will did something similar and it seemed to solve the problem last time. When I get the chance I'll give them a proper clean but its so hard to get parts where I am so I'm stuck for a while with replacing the orings. Is there an easier way to change a headlight than taking the entire assembly apart?

[Harvy]

Is there an easier way to change a headlight than taking the entire assembly apart?

I've changed headlight bulbs without removing anything. Just reach up from below the fairing and slip the rubber socket cover off the back of the headlight. There is then a wire spring clip that holds the bulb into the back of the headlight - its on a pivot type arrangement. The bulb will now come out. Take the socket off it and put the new one in in the reverse order. Make sure you put the rubber cover back on in the correct orientation.


Harvy

[andyb]

The bike won't start this morning but whenever I try to turn it on this morning the fuel started leaking again down the side of the bike but worse.

Pull a plug, betcha it's wet as hell, too rich to light off.

I am thinking its leaking from the needle and seat but becos its raining today and I don't have proper cover I have had to abandon repairing it. I just wanna know what anybody else thinks the problems could be before I tackle the carbs?

Often, the float needle or the oring around the seat.

The bike is misfiring as well so I am thinking its burning petrol in the exhaust.

Fuel level crazy high (you'd smell it in the exhaust and it'll run super soggy when hot), because the float needles aren't able to control fuel height in the bowls properly. 

Also the headlight has fused so I wanna ask what the easiest way to replace that would be?

Replace it   You'll need tiny hands.  Ask someone with tiny hands maybe.

Sorry for the crappy way this topic is set out but I have to do it off my phone?

That's your own fault and not much of a question.   

[FJTillDeath]

  Thanks to rich, andy and harvey. On sunday I finally had a clear day and the time to get cracking with the bike. It was just the floats that werent seated right so after taking out the carbs and rectifying the problem that was all sorted. AS for the light bulb i reached in and just by fiddling with it it came right so I think the connection may have just been interrupted but I made sure that everything was tight just for peace of mind and now have a spare bulb for just in case. One question though how does a plug get wet if it has those rubber things covering them? although i dont have a roof to cover the bike i have a bike cover which is about 95 percent water proof. Also I noticed the first time i fixed this problem the bike got really hot and i could feel the heat resonating from the engine like never before, it turns out that silver layer underneath the tank had come loose and wasnt really doing its job properly

[FJTillDeath]

also i dont really understand how one of the plugs being wet would prevent the bike from starting as I have started the bike on 2 and 3 cylanders before(i forgot to put the rubber things back on)

[Tengu]

I've changed headlight bulbs without removing anything. Just reach up from below the fairing and slip the rubber socket cover off the back of the headlight. There is then a wire spring clip that holds the bulb into the back of the headlight - its on a pivot type arrangement. The bulb will now come out. Take the socket off it and put the new one in in the reverse order. Make sure you put the rubber cover back on in the correct orientation.
Harvy

Man I have done that as well... my hands aren't tiny but any bigger and my hands would not fit!
Getting the spring clip off is easy, but getting it all back in place... I felt like a gynaecologist!

[andyb]

also i dont really understand how one of the plugs being wet would prevent the bike from starting as I have started the bike on 2 and 3 cylanders before(i forgot to put the rubber things back on)

iirc, you can get two cylinders to drop on a single shorted plug on a wasted spark system.  Would only need two cylinders to flood and there'd be no spark anywhere in that case.

Wet plugs refer to the sparky end, not the boring end.  Think wet with fuel, as you're dumping it uncontrollably into the intake tract.  Though you can short them on the boring end also, you'd need a cracked boot and a great big puddle...

[ribbert]

I've changed headlight bulbs without removing anything. Just reach up from below the fairing and slip the rubber socket cover off the back of the headlight. There is then a wire spring clip that holds the bulb into the back of the headlight - its on a pivot type arrangement. The bulb will now come out. Take the socket off it and put the new one in in the reverse order. Make sure you put the rubber cover back on in the correct orientation.
Harvy

Man I have done that as well... my hands aren't tiny but any bigger and my hands would not fit!
Getting the spring clip off is easy, but getting it all back in place... I felt like a gynaecologist!

2 things I've found that make it easier, remove the horn ( same if doing speedo cable) gives plenty of access for the biggest hands and look at the spring clip with a mirror and torch so you can visualize what your feeling when refitting it.

[big r]

my speedo cable came off on the weekend and I had a hell of a time trying to get it to start to thread on again. The back of my left hand looks like it went through a meat grinder, but with a little luck I finally got it hook up again.

[RichBaker]

Is there an easier way to change a headlight than taking the entire assembly apart?

I've changed headlight bulbs without removing anything. Just reach up from below the fairing and slip the rubber socket cover off the back of the headlight. There is then a wire spring clip that holds the bulb into the back of the headlight - its on a pivot type arrangement. The bulb will now come out. Take the socket off it and put the new one in in the reverse order. Make sure you put the rubber cover back on in the correct orientation.


Harvy

I found it's easier if I take the horn off, 1st.... gives me more room for my hand.

[ribbert]

my speedo cable came off on the weekend and I had a hell of a time trying to get it to start to thread on again. The back of my left hand looks like it went through a meat grinder, but with a little luck I finally got it hook up again.

Take the horn off!!!!

[motohorseman]

My 1989 FJ1200 started marking its spot.

Initially, it was only a couple drips.

Eventually, it was the everlasting small pool under the bike, causing the garage and house to smell like gasoline.

Usually this is a stuck float, and I like to repair/replace things as a set.

Yamaha part number 3CF-14107-15-00 runs about $20.00 each, so we're looking $80.00.

K&L economy kits (gasket/float valve) can be had for around $12.00, that's $56.00

Anyway, here is a picture of a new float needle valve for the FJ -



Note the o-ring

Here are my old o-rings



K&L sells replacement o-rings, closest size I found was part number 18-4631 (1.5x7.5mm) and they cost a whopping $9.99 - for 25!

Our local Yamaha dealer had them in stock, paid a couple bucks for 4 of them, no more leaky carbs!

[simi_ed]

You're lucky to get complete o-rings.  Mine all came out in pieces no more than 3/16" long.