Castrol Syntec Oil

[FJTillDeath]

Just a matter of interest but how often should one replace oil? And what oild should one use? I use a  brand called castrol syntec 20w 50, which I have been told is really good, lubricates well and protects engine parts etc.. Is there something better or is the one I am using good enough? I dont want to turn the FJ into a crotch rocket I just want to make sure I am feeding her properly..

[RichBaker]

I've been using Syntec 10w40, change it around 5-6k miles.  I feel the 20w50 is too thick for most engines.... the manual doesn't even mention 20w50, it says to use 10w40, even at higher temps. Been running it for about 8 years now.

BTW, the FJ IS a crotch rocket..... one of the 1st, in fact.

[andyb]

Replace the oil when you're comfortable.  I've never let the FJ's oil go longer than 2000 miles myself, but I mistreat and abuse it regularly.  Always change the filter at the same time, and periodically pull the oil pan and inspect the pickup screen for problems (every few years or so is safe, more often if you abuse things--a good time is when you replace a clutch, as that worn fiber had to go someplace).

I use cheap 10w40 myself.  When I tore the engine down after more than 100 dragstrip passes, the bearings were still in good shape, showing minimal wear after all the abuse an 20k mi or so, so it worked for me.

[DailyDriver]

I was told by my dealer that if one uses what the manufacture recomends, no matter what brand of bike you ride, you can't go wrong. No need to spend extra money on designer brands or special blends of oil. I use Yamalube in my '90 FJ (as recommended). Have been since almost new. At 61,000 miles I use maybe one half quart between oil changes every 3,000 miles (sometimes longer) and some of that loss is due to slight oil drippage.  FWIW

[FJTillDeath]

Luckily I dont abuse the bike just yet but on the next oil change I will definitely give the 10w 40 a try and see if it goes well compared to the 20w 50. It isnt a particularly expensive oil but costs more than the average oil. As for when I replace the clutch. I have never ever done that and wouldnt actually know when to do it. My cluctch feels fine apart from sometimes not engaging properly (probably air stuck in it from what I am told) otherwise the only noticable thing for me is that if my fingers arent on the clucth even from just starting the bike the lever will shake/ vibrate while the break doesnt. I dont know is that normal, is the fitting just loose or is my lack on the subject(or rather lack of action to it) going to kill me? Like I said I wouldnt know as the 125cc I rode before didnt even have clutch fluid and the only time I replaced it was when the lever snapped after the bike fell over.

[Arnie]

As you've probably noticed by now, there are lots of different opinions on what oil to use and how often to change it.  I've used Valvolene 20W-50 changed every 5,000kms for the last 90,000 kms  (of the 125K kms the bike has on it) and not had any oil related problems.  At the last change, I changed to 15W 40 Diesel oil.  Too early to know if its any better or worse.

You'll know when to replace the clutch - it'll start to slip and you'll find the engine is spinning faster, but the bike hasn't changed speed.  Your clutch lever pivot may be wearing.  If you remove the lever you can inspect the pivot pin and the pivot hole in the lever.  The hole may be elongated from wear and the pivot pin may have a worn area.  Replace whichever is worn (or both) and make sure you grease it occasionally in future.

Arnie

Luckily I dont abuse the bike just yet but on the next oil change I will definitely give the 10w 40 a try and see if it goes well compared to the 20w 50. It isnt a particularly expensive oil but costs more than the average oil. As for when I replace the clutch. I have never ever done that and wouldnt actually know when to do it. My cluctch feels fine apart from sometimes not engaging properly (probably air stuck in it from what I am told) otherwise the only noticable thing for me is that if my fingers arent on the clucth even from just starting the bike the lever will shake/ vibrate while the break doesnt. I dont know is that normal, is the fitting just loose or is my lack on the subject(or rather lack of action to it) going to kill me? Like I said I wouldnt know as the 125cc I rode before didnt even have clutch fluid and the only time I replaced it was when the lever snapped after the bike fell over.

[rktmanfj]

I won't even use Castrol products in my lawnmower.

My then new XS750E developed an oil burning problem at about 15k miles, running on Castrol oil in the recommended weight.  Switching to a different brand (CAM2) took care of it.

I've not used any Castrol oils since... their Super Clean is pretty good stuff, though.

Randy T
Indy

[JFox]

I've heard that japanese engineers designing FJ's engine 27 years ago didn't know how good synthetic oils will be. Consequently mineral 20W40 changed every 6 000 km is enough. Everything more is spending extra money for nothing...
I've heard it, but I don't agree. I 'love' my bike and I'm going to feed the engine the best oil I 'can'. Actually I have Motul 7100 10W40 full synth. Second season. Depends on klimat one live first factor is important. Above +5°C we should use 20W. I have 10W because I'm riding till 0°C - moderate climate
Synthetic oils are better - more stable at temperature and doesn't run down so qiuck like mineral. And it is not true that for older engine one can not use synth oil, of course one should flush engine and clean oil pan before.
Generally IMO the producer of oil (his technology) is more important than brand. Type of petroleum from Pennsylvania is also better then russian petroleum which contain more sulfur and has less lubricating properties.
I've been suggested types like Quaker State or Royal Purple. In car I have Quaker and I can really hear the difference - runs quieter, also haven't noticed consumption after 2 000 km.
That's my point of view.

EDIT:
I forgot to remind that for our wet clutches is extremely impotant to oil have JASO MA2 class.
...and according to topic, I've been suggested that Castrol is rather lower class, Motul which I use (popular in EU) is middle, and the best are pointed in above

Jarek

[mikeholzer]

I've not used any Castrol oils since... their Super Clean is pretty good stuff, though.

Randy T
Indy

I don't think that Super Clean is a Castrol product any longer. I've been buying it by the gallon for years, and in the last few years the Castrol name has been conspicuously absent. It was at about the same time that the jug changed from white to purple, If I recall.

[grannyknot]

I've heard that japanese engineers designing FJ's engine 27 years ago didn't know how good synthetic oils will be. Consequently mineral 20W40 changed every 6 000 km is enough. Everything more is spending extra money for nothing...
I've heard it, but I don't agree. I 'love' my bike and I'm going to feed the engine the best oil I 'can'. Actually I have Motul 7100 10W40 full synth. Second season. Depends on klimat one live first factor is important. Above +5°C we should use 20W. I have 10W because I'm riding till 0°C - moderate climate
Synthetic oils are better - more stable at temperature and doesn't run down so qiuck like mineral. And it is not true that for older engine one can not use synth oil, of course one should flush engine and clean oil pan before.
Generally IMO the producer of oil (his technology) is more important than brand. Type of petroleum from Pennsylvania is also better then russian petroleum which contain more sulfur and has less lubricating properties.
I've been suggested types like Quaker State or Royal Purple. In car I have Quaker and I can really hear the difference - runs quieter, also haven't noticed consumption after 2 000 km.
That's my point of view.

EDIT:
I forgot to remind that for our wet clutches is extremely impotant to oil have JASO MA2 class.
...and according to topic, I've been suggested that Castrol is rather lower class, Motul which I use (popular in EU) is middle, and the best are pointed in above

Jarek
YOU SEE! This forum does need an oil forum.
Jarek, I have used diesel oil 15W40 in lots of older bikes with good results. The diesel oil doesn't have any friction modifiers as there is in modern car oil so there is no screwing up the friction on the clutch and no need to buy the expensive "motorcycle" oils.

[rktmanfj]

I've not used any Castrol oils since... their Super Clean is pretty good stuff, though.

Randy T
Indy

I don't think that Super Clean is a Castrol product any longer. I've been buying it by the gallon for years, and in the last few years the Castrol name has been conspicuously absent. It was at about the same time that the jug changed from white to purple, If I recall.

Makes sense, Mike... they likely sold off the only decent product in their lineup.     

Been a while since I actually bought any.  A gallon goes a long way.

Randy T
Indy

[Dan Filetti]

Shell Rotella for me.  I use this in all my machines.  There are 12 internal combustion engines here-all of the non-2 stroke motors get Rotella now.

Working just fine for me.  I especially like the way the bikes, and the quad shift with Rotella in them over others. I tried Castrol and did not like it at all, shifting was MUCH klunkier, especially on the Gixxer.

Dan

[SlowOldGuy]

Wow, Lee C is going to be very disappointed to hear that Castrol is crap.    Probably just a fluke.  He's just lucky to have gotten 250,000 miles using the bottom of the line Castrol GTX. 

My last oil change was to Diesel oil.  I'll be running back to Castrol for the next change.

DavidR.

[Travis398]

I have found clean oil is more important than what brand oil.

[Dan Filetti]

Wow, Lee C is going to be very disappointed to hear that Castrol is crap.    

Sarcastic much, David?  I never said it was crap.  I simply said I did not like it, because my bikes shifted noticeably better on another oil.  I did this back-to-back-to-back (Rotella to GTX to Rotella) It was a very stark and obvious difference.  YRMV

Dan