Questions for FJ that has sat

[fj1200d]

Ok, I have a few questions that anyone that can give me some advice I would be very appreciative of. Here's my situation.. I have a '92 FJ that has sat for about the last 10 years due to me having medical issues. I have removed and disassembled the carbs and recieved the new carb kits from Randy along with a new petcock, Thank You again Randy. I have the Carbs over at the Local Yamaha shop for a good cleaning. I'll tell you those carb files are great to have. I thank the author of those as well.

So The carbs were spewing gas really bad from the hoses. The slides in the carbs were actually stuck when I took them apart. I also am having the gas tank cleaned at the shop. Now for my questions..

What else for advice that I need to do to her to get her running good again since it has sat so long? I Drained the oil tonight and am going to use Yamalube semi-synth 20/50, the oil did have a fuel smell to it. Should I get a cheap quart of oil or two to just dump in and drain ? I checked the plugs and they are good. and got a new oil filter as well so all oil is drained.

I know new tires are a must since it sat so long. I could use suggestions on them as well. I am going to be placing another order very soon with Randy and would like to try to get whatever else I need in one shot.
I noticed that if I sqeeze the clutch lever it's like nothing is there, I hear a click but no resistance. Can't remeber how its supposed to be. My gas is the fluid leaked out of the slave. There was paint removed from around the cover of my oil filter by the slave.

I whole heartidly appreciate any advice I can get on her. Right now I am trying to concentrate alot of my efforts into getting her going again. Thank You everyone in advance for any help!

[carsick]

As you already know, clutch slave rebuild kit or new slave from Randy. Possibly clutch master cylinder rebuild or replacement with a newer style 14mm master if the slave doesn't fix it all. Use our search function to find clutch bleeding advice. Your brake masters and calipers will be crapped up from sitting too, pay them heed before you get roaring down the road on that hot rod. Is it ABS?? I find often that pulling out all the parts and scraping the dried DOT 4 jizz from behind the seals and in the grooves will fix sticking/leaking calipers and masters. Think about braided lines to replace those original 20 year old brake hoses.
Battery!

[Dan Filetti]

It sure sounds like you need a slave rebuild kit.  Beyond what you're already doing, I'd at least check/ clean/ replace the air filter -you never know what may have set up camp in there over 10 years. I'd also replace/ flush the brake fluids, test/ replace your battery, and clean, and service the chain. Flushing with a qt of cheap oil is not a stupid idea, maybe a bit over-kill, not sure, I'll defer to others on that.  

Beyond this, there are a number of 'secondary' things you should be considering at some point in the not too distant future too, if you want a) familiarity with your machine and b) confidence in it.  

These would be:  
1. check all rubber parts for dry-rot (carb intake boots...) ...it's not just the tires that do this over time
2. service all electrical connections -clean and grease with dielectric grease
3. service the battery and coil grounds for a nice positive connection
4. replace your brake lines
5. clean and service the brakes -consider upgrading
6. service your head bearings
7. detail the bike, get it as clean as you can, in every nook and cranny -It never fails to surprise me the stuff I find that needs attention doing a good clean that I would otherwise not have.
8. Inspect and clean/ service all seals/ bearings/ races.
9. Inspect and service the motor mounts.
10. get a wrench on every bolt and nut you can reach, ensure that it's tight.  re-torque it to spec if you have/ can get the torque values.
11. adjust the valves

That's all I can rattle off just now...  Don't let this list scare you, it does not have to all be done at once, and most of it can be ignored for a surprisingly long time, but it should not be.  

In a perfect world this list would be gone though once per year or so (...and I would win the lottery frequently, oh, and I'd have a harem -but I digress...)  

Good Luck!

Dan

[fj1200d]

Thank You for the reply Carsick. It's non-abs. I forgot to include that info. I probably will replace the slave for the clutch. Is there info in the files on how to know whether to replace or rebuild ? Sorry for all the questions.

I also have a brand new battery on a Tender Jr.

And Thank You Dan.. Actually I will probably do all on the list before the first ride out.. I know it will take time but stuff on your list has to deal with safety also. and the detailing part... well.. it speaks for itself.. Lol.. My daughter wanted to take some pics with her phone to hsow her friends.. I told her NO WAY.. Not until she is detailed..

[Arnie]

Great opportunity to get her to help you clean it :-)  In exchange for a ride once its all back to pristine condition and running well again.

BTW  No need to apologize for your questions, they were/are important for you to know.  And, the answers were all to the point and helpful, too. :-)

You'll be back in the saddle soon,

Arnie

Thank You for the reply Carsick. It's non-abs. I forgot to include that info. I probably will replace the slave for the clutch. Is there info in the files on how to know whether to replace or rebuild ? Sorry for all the questions.

I also have a brand new battery on a Tender Jr.

And Thank You Dan.. Actually I will probably do all on the list before the first ride out.. I know it will take time but stuff on your list has to deal with safety also. and the detailing part... well.. it speaks for itself.. Lol.. My daughter wanted to take some pics with her phone to hsow her friends.. I told her NO WAY.. Not until she is detailed..

[oldktmdude]

  G'day FJ1200d, I think most of the important things have already been covered. Probably not critical at first, but will need doing sooner or later, replace the fork oil and fork seals. The fork oil will look like sump oil and have limited ability to do its job. The seals may have hardened and leak oil over your brake rotors whilst riding. Not a good thing to happen to you on your first ride in ten years. If you decide to replace the seals, use genuine Yamaha replacements, as it's a bit hit and miss with after-market brands. Good to see another FJ back on the road, where they belong.  Regards, Pete.   

[racerrad8]

I know new tires are a must since it sat so long. I could use suggestions on them as well. I am going to be placing another order very soon with Randy and would like to try to get whatever else I need in one shot.
I noticed that if I sqeeze the clutch lever it's like nothing is there, I hear a click but no resistance. Can't remeber how its supposed to be. My gas is the fluid leaked out of the slave. There was paint removed from around the cover of my oil filter by the slave.

You will find the slave rebuilt kit or new replacement on the website. I have ordered slave cylinders yesterday as I sold both I had in stock last week. The need to replace is solely dependent on the corrosion found on the bore of the slave when you take it apart.

There is also a master cylinder rebuild kit listed as well.

I also have the fork seal kits; these are the same NOK brand seals Yamaha uses.

The valve cover gasket and grommets will probably need replacement pretty quick as well since they are rubber and harden with time. (p.s. - I have those too...)

Randy - RPM
www.RPMRacingCa.com

[fb747]

Check your fuel line and connectors, when I first picked mine up one of the clamps was halfway down the line just hanging around.
Wouldn't want your first run to end in an inferno... well not unless you decide to get rid of the old tires with a bit of a magic smoke show

[PaulG]

hi

i bought a '92FJ ABS in '07 with three previous owners who (i eventually discovered) did zero maintenance on it, which would probably be the same as a bike sitting for 10 yrs

my main issues were:

bearings - steering head, wheel, swing arm, rear suspension linkage (extremely expensive if OEM)

brakes - rebuild with o-ring/gasket kit - dental picks work great to get the gunk out of the grooves in the calipers (got mine at a flea market) - but don't be too aggressive as you can actually scrape off the aluminum - if you got an ultrasonic bath (or access to one) even better

swing arm spindle - this was caked up with 15yr old dried up grease and took about 20min of wailing with a hammer and drift and buckets of vile profanities to get it out so the bearings could be pressed out - yours might be similar  (i'm sure the profanities finally did the trick)

front forks - the oil had NEVER been changed - bacteria broke it down into black water that stank like a pig's arse on an Aug afternoon - don't change this in your basement like i did...

exhaust - i can only relate with a stock system, so if you weren't able to start the bike at all for 10 yrs and depending on how it was stored - repeated condensation may have caused some internal rot - check where the headers enter the collector box - the metal on the four inlets on mine is getting quite thin - take off the mufflers and give them some light taps with a rubber mallet or wood block and see if any rust falls out (hopefully not chunks of your baffles)

gas in your oil - yep, bin there (just posted again) - after draining your gas/oil, you might want to pull off your oil pan and make sure no sludge has settled to the bottom and inspect the oil pump intake for grunge - my mechanic put in fresh oil - turned the engine over enough to get it circulated (i don't know if he actually let it run for a minute or two) - drained it - pulled off the filter and gave the engine a couple of cranks to spit out any remaining crap so as not to dirty up the new oil and filter (he does this on all bikes he services when doing regular oil changes) - also pre-lube the new filter before you install it

my method was to sit beside the bike (cuz i'm so lazy) with pen and paper and just look from front to back and start listing what to check - you may end up with a long list (like i did) - but i concentrated on the ones that would get me on the road first - the rest i did as the cash became handy

hope this helps

[Mark Olson]

check for mice in you air box , and chewed on wires , clean the connections on all wiring.

good luck and take it easy

[srutherford]

my worry is getting my clutch blead back i went through that before 

[NJona86FJ]

"swing arm spindle - this was caked up with 15yr old dried up grease and took about 20min of wailing with a hammer and drift and buckets of vile profanities to get it out so the bearings could be pressed out - yours might be similar  (i'm sure the profanities finally did the trick)"



thats just verbal lubrication!! it is a must .... but there is the other thought.. the second you swear at a machine, thats the second its "won"

[FJTillDeath]

check for mice in you air box , and chewed on wires , clean the connections on all wiring.

good luck and take it easy

MICE in  the airbox? as in real mice? what would a mouse want in there and how would it get in there to begin with? sure the smell of petrol from th carbs would drive most animals away?

[terryk]

Mice are the most destrutive force on earth that are not put off by petrol, kryptonite or nuclear waste. They will destroy a vehicle and are the devil.  Fearless and determined to wreak havoc. They are imoral beasts put here to torture man.

[FJTillDeath]

LOL i feed them to my snake

Making my small contribution to mankind 2 to 3 mice less at a time