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anti diving remove

Started by gilou, June 22, 2011, 01:43:46 PM

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gilou

hi i started checking my bike, one first problem i have to make an order to buy new brakes durit ; will i have to buy some for the anti diving system ( i saw that it was not a good system , can we remove it i'd choose this solution if it's possible , more easy than buy a new fork)

fj11.5

Can be removed ,not sure if u can buy block off plates for the fork legs or have them made, is possible to change fork lowers if u plan on upgrading the front wheel
unless you ride bikes, I mean really ride bikes, then you just won't get it

84 Fj1100  effie , with mods
( 88 ) Fj 1200  fairly standard , + blue spots
84 Fj1100 absolutely stock standard, now more stock , fitted with Fj12 twin system , no rusted headers for this felicity jayne

moparman70

I always just shut it off for the most part by turning the knobs at the end all the way closed
     

gilou

so is it possible to put plugs instead of the small hoses coming from the brake ?
what oil do you use ?

FJmonkey

Quote from: gilou on June 22, 2011, 01:43:46 PM
hi i started checking my bike, one first problem i have to make an order to buy new brakes durit ; will i have to buy some for the anti diving system ( i saw that it was not a good system , can we remove it i'd choose this solution if it's possible , more easy than buy a new fork)
You can get Block-Off plates, or make them. They need to have a channel from one port to the other to prevent fluid lock (effectively have solid forks). If you are good at fabricating parts with O-Ring seals or other kinds of seals, then you will be set. Otherwise consider upgrading to 89 or newer forks and get a wider front wheel to boot.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Flying Scotsman

Changed my seals on my 85 and they work great now.Anti dive still installed.They were bad.Just did my 90 and they work great now too.Seals are cheap and new forks not so much so its worth rebulding IMO.
1984 FJ1100
1985 FJ1100
1990 FJ1200
1999 GP1200 (165 + hp)

flips

Hi there.
I know that most would disagree....but my 2c worth...
I actually like the anti dive setup...but only since rebuilding the forks with a  heavier than recommended blend of fork oil (a 50/50 mix off 10 & 15w ),progressive fork springs,s/steel brake lines,an fjr1300 master cylinder (got one for the clutch as well ,works well),and a grippy tyre ( I like the metzeler lasertech).After some adjustment of the anti dive unit I can grab a handfull of brakes get a slight chirp from the front tyre and pull up very well with still enough feel in the lever (not possible with the standard master cylinder) for good control.
I have no doubt that the later model brakes are superior though.I also have a 98 thunderace,but its a bird of a different feather.
Cheers
Jeff.P
Stay rubber side down.

gilou

Quote from: FJmonkey on June 24, 2011, 07:31:20 PM
Quote from: gilou on June 22, 2011, 01:43:46 PM
hi i started checking my bike, one first problem i have to make an order to buy new brakes durit ; will i have to buy some for the anti diving system ( i saw that it was not a good system , can we remove it i'd choose this solution if it's possible , more easy than buy a new fork)
You can get Block-Off plates, or make them. They need to have a channel from one port to the other to prevent fluid lock (effectively have solid forks). If you are good at fabricating parts with O-Ring seals or other kinds of seals, then you will be set. Otherwise consider upgrading to 89 or newer forks and get a wider front wheel to boot.
hi fjmonkey the idea was to keep the aluminium body without the parts inside , more easy for me than build block off plates; do you think it's a good idea ?  


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SlowOldGuy

How do you intend on sealing that top part?  The anti-dive plunger sealed it originally.  It is not meant for pressure, see that little weep hole?  It is there because water could leak into that area.  If you leave it open, that area will be subjected to a lot of fork oil pressure and will probably leak like crazy. 

I forgot what the internals look like, but can you grind off the tapered part of the plunger (that has been removed) so fork oil flows past it readily, but it will still seal the body of the A/D unit?

That may be confusing.  Ask more questions if you need to.

DavidR.

rktmanfj

Quote from: FJmonkey on June 24, 2011, 07:31:20 PM
Otherwise consider upgrading to 89 or newer forks and get a wider front wheel to boot.

FWIW, The stock 89 & up wheels are also 3".

Randy T
Indy

FJmonkey

Quote from: gilou on July 12, 2011, 01:41:29 PM
hi fjmonkey the idea was to keep the aluminium body without the parts inside , more easy for me than build block off plates; do you think it's a good idea ?

San_Dimas Mike put block off plates on his 86' forks. They were way over engineered, but they worked. I have some 89 forks from Simi_Ed so no Anti-Dive for me, plus 3" wide front. I don't know enough on the internals to help you. I think if you have the bits apart you can drill a hole somewhere and kill the system. The block off plates means you can remove some un-sprung weight as a bonus. 
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

RichBaker

Quote from: rktmanfj on July 12, 2011, 04:43:33 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on June 24, 2011, 07:31:20 PM
Otherwise consider upgrading to 89 or newer forks and get a wider front wheel to boot.

FWIW, The stock 89 & up wheels are also 3".

Randy T
Indy

But 17" vs 16"......
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

FJmonkey

Quote from: RichBaker on July 12, 2011, 09:20:20 PM
Quote from: rktmanfj on July 12, 2011, 04:43:33 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on June 24, 2011, 07:31:20 PM
Otherwise consider upgrading to 89 or newer forks and get a wider front wheel to boot.
FWIW, The stock 89 & up wheels are also 3".
Randy T
Indy
But 17" vs 16"......
Oh Yeah, and the 17" wheel to boot, better rubber on the road and all that. Though I have good rubber with the Avon's AV46 front for the last few years. I have a spare if I move to 17" quick enough.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

gilou

Quote from: SlowOldGuy on July 12, 2011, 02:24:44 PM
How do you intend on sealing that top part?  The anti-dive plunger sealed it originally.  It is not meant for pressure, see that little weep hole?  It is there because water could leak into that area.  If you leave it open, that area will be subjected to a lot of fork oil pressure and will probably leak like crazy. 

I forgot what the internals look like, but can you grind off the tapered part of the plunger (that has been removed) so fork oil flows past it readily, but it will still seal the body of the A/D unit?

That may be confusing.  Ask more questions if you need to.

DavidR.
you ,are right i saw the small hole , it can be sealed with the rubber part

gilou

in europe you have to be careful  with the law for exemple if you change wheels or tyres in case of accident the insurance doesn't works