Clutch issues?

Carterc · March 17, 2011, 03:05:45 PM

my clutch is a little hard to disengage, i have to squeeze pretty hard to move it, is it just my bike or is that pretty standard across a lot of bikes (fyi, i have never touched another motorcycle in my entire life, crazy right?)

thanks!

andyb · March 17, 2011, 05:08:19 PM

If your bike was raced, it's entirely probable that the prior guy upgraded it so it wouldn't slip so much (especially when using a power adder).

If you sit on the bike, look at your right foot. It's almost leaning on the clutch cover. Pop that cover off (get a spare gasket first as a rule) while leaning the bike on the sidestand a good bit (oil is behind that cover, tipping the bike a bit prevents the mess), and see what's in there. Odds are it's either got the diaphram springs doubled up or a coil conversion to the pressure plate. Either is a very good way to prevent slippage, but if it's too much to use you can do some things to calm it down (return it to stock, look for shims on the coils, remove a pair of coil springs, etc). The best answer may be leaving it as it is and instead looking for a new master cylinder for under your left hand, if the one on the bike is still stock. A 14mm bore master for the clutch side will give you better leverage against the pressure plate, and lighten the amount of work your hand does by ~20% or so.

The other option is to ride around singing the manly men song to yourself until you have enough grip strength that it doesn't bother you.

Robin Hood: Men In Tights]

Carterc · March 17, 2011, 05:45:23 PM

hahaha thanks for the info! your descriptions on where things were was incredibly helpful, ill go look at the bike now and see what its got and if i can recognize anything based on the parts you specified

andyb · March 17, 2011, 05:52:05 PM

I should mention that if you read this it should comfortably cover anything that you're likely to find under the clutch cover.

Unless you find something with little movable arms on it, which is a lockup, and the correct answer would be to PM me immediately (they're a bastard to find!)

Carterc · March 17, 2011, 06:06:59 PM

holy hell thats waaaayyyy to many moving parts for me, ill pass on opening it and stick with men in tights!

my FJ is running now, and i'd hate to be the reason it stops running!

Carterc · March 17, 2011, 06:16:46 PM

and what exactly is this?

andyb · March 17, 2011, 06:17:38 PM

Nah, it's really not bad. With the diaphram setup, once the cover is off you have like 6 screws to deal with and you've got the clutch pack out.

You may want to lightly lubricate the pivot point of the clutch lever, also.

Marsh White · March 17, 2011, 06:19:50 PM

Quote from: Carterc on March 17, 2011, 06:16:46 PM
and what exactly is this?

A reflector that has been spray painted black...

Carterc · March 17, 2011, 06:46:08 PM

Why would he spraypaint it black? This PO is costing me money left and right!

Pat Conlon · March 17, 2011, 07:32:05 PM

Carter, the oem FJ has a 5/8" dia. piston in the clutch master cylinder (m/c)
If you get a 14mm m/c off a FJR it will be a easier pull.
Look closely at the body of your clutch m/c, down by the banjo port, if it shows a 5/8 you can do this mod.
Cheers!

Carterc · March 17, 2011, 10:49:40 PM

Pat,

im lovin your advice, but its more foreign language to me than Icelandic... i appreciate the help, maybe Google will help me decipher the code! off to find the Rosetta stone!

andyb · March 18, 2011, 08:20:02 AM

Translated>

Sit on the bike. Grab clutch in. Make note of lever that left hand is using. Get off bike, follow lever to master cylinder for clutch. Has a reseviour on top that you dump fluid into, a lever to sqeeze that you just had your hand on, a line going out the side, and it's bolted to the handlebar.

On the body of that piece may be cast "5/8", kinda near where the big hydraulic line is connected. That means it's (probably) original. When you squeeze the clutch lever, it shoves a little piston inside that assembly. That lil piston's size is 5/8", which is about 16mm.

If you replace the master cylinder assembly with a comparable one that uses a 14mm piston in it, you'll have better leverage on the lever against the springs in the clutch on the motor. It'll be about 20% less effort at the lever, and the engagement point will be longer by 20% (makes it easier to feather things more finely).

The yamaha FJR1300 is a good possibility for a donor for the master.

Carterc · March 18, 2011, 10:01:36 AM

is there a website that you guys use that has the lowest prices for things like this?

Pat Conlon · March 18, 2011, 02:56:00 PM

LOL thank you Andy! Sorry about that Chris.

Ok Chris, as you realize, for better or worse, you have bought yourself a modified high performance FJ, so in order to keep you on the road, you have some homework to do..

1) Do you have a 1987 owners manual? You need one. If not go here and down load one (free): http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3483.0

2) Get both a Haynes and Clymer Owners Work Shop Manual for the Yamaha FJ1100/1200.
The first section in these manuals have a great tutorial on motorcycle basics, including terminology. For example, to help us help you, *eventually* you need to know the difference between the clutch slave cylinder and the master cylinder in order to communicate. I say eventually, 'cause this course of study will take time, so don't go into vapor lock and try to absorb and retain this stuff overnight. Become familiar with the manuals. Don't waste brain cells and memorise data. (except tire pressures) Instead just remember where to go to look it up. Memorize important shit like dates of birthdays, anniversary's, pin#'s, *tire pressures*, etc,etc and not FJ valve clearance or float height data. Again, just remember where to go to look up the info. you need.
Don't go into vapor lock. Try and learn 3 things a week about your bike. 1st thing to learn is, yep you guessed it, *tire pressures* which we will tell you to check before every ride. How to adjust your chain will be next....

3) Start a log book on the work you do on your bike. It's a pia and the pages will undoubtedly get smudged with grease but the ability to look up and see what you did, when you did it, will become most helpful. (thank you Lee)

4) Also....Read all the info. in our Files section, Andy's got some good shit in there.

5) Ask a lot of questions. Beware we can tell by the way you ask the question, and the words that you use, if you have or have not, done your homework.

..Cheers!

Carterc · March 18, 2011, 04:46:15 PM

phew! the thing that sucks is, ever since i got the bike i have not taken it out of my apartment complex but instead i got a clymers manual and have been reading non-stop, day and night and you guys are STILL talking spanish lol (i wanna make sure my first ride isnt my last) but the good thing is, the guy put a tire pump in the bike that runs off the battery, i dont know if all of them came with one, but its super convenient!

great ideas on the logging of what ive done to the bike, but im way ahead of your advice

my clutch m/c is a 5/8 and soon im going to go through the clutch when i have an extra gasket and a torque wrench, and find out exactly whats in there (ill take pics)

News:

Clutch issues?