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Oil change requires exhaust removal

Started by cayetano25, April 17, 2009, 12:24:27 PM

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cayetano25

Has anyone else run into this one?  I went out to change my oil, only to find that the Kerker exhaust that was installed on the bike when I bought it completely interferes with access to the drain plug.  I've seen some discussion that is typical of after market exhaust systems.

1) Is the removal of the exhaust system difficult?  I've gone in and replaced the float needles in the carbs and such, so I have a decent bit of mechanical apptitude, but I've never messed with exhaust systems.

2) Does anyone know if the V&H 4-1 system blocks the drain plug?  Is that a recommendable system?

Thanks in advance!!

Tom

MyFirstNameIsPaul

No, removal is not difficult.  It's just a PITA extra step for changing the oil.

The V&H that came with my bike blocked access to the drain plug.

I have installed a D&D with their 'quiet pipe'.  The D&D allows access to the drain plug and their quiet pipe is not obnoxiously loud like most D&D systems.  Their quiet pipe also uses steel wool for packing material so it won't go to crap after 10,000 miles or less like most aftermarket pipes.

To further reduce steps when changing oil and filter, you can get a spin-on filter adapter from Randy at RPM.

cayetano25

Thanks a ton!!  I'll check into that D&D exhaust!

ddlewis

Had a V&H SS2R that had to come off to change the oil.  That lasted about 3 oil changes.  Not hard, but extra BS that I didn't care to deal with.  Went back to stock headpipes, collector with aftermarket cans.

Marsh White

The V&H also blocks access to the oil drain plug.  This was over come on my bike by tapping and welding up a new oil drain plug in a different location.  V&H is fairly low quality exhaust system when speaking about longevity, but it works well for performance IMHO.  I'm on my 2ND and a half system...I've had to make a quick hardware store bracket mid trip to get home because the mounts on a 6 month old can broke at the welds...etc.  I had a header pipe completely crack through at the 4-1 collector.  And I've had the company be absolute dickheads to me on the phone and deny ANY responsibility.   Anyway...I'm currently still running a V&H - actually works well if it doesn't break.

D&D is higher quality so I've heard.  Also more expensive.

andyb

^ Sounds about like my experiences with V&H. 

Had one header rust completely through and fall apart, the replacement is rusting badly after about six months.  Build quality is quite low.  The SS2R cannisters are also quite restrictive. 

I'm looking at relocating the drain plug like Marsh, which'll make oil changes rather easier.  Also am removing the can for a Yoshi RS-3 from a busa, the comparison between the two is almost unreal, the yosh seems well built and the V&H looks like it was cobbled in someone's garage.

MyFirstNameIsPaul

Quote from: cayetano25 on April 17, 2009, 01:54:18 PM
Thanks a ton!!  I'll check into that D&D exhaust!

If you get a D&D you should follow the advice their tech gave me, which I didn't do.  He said to take the bike out for a ride and get it really good and warmed up, then come back, let the pipes cool off, remove the pipes, then spray the header with high temp black spray paint.  The reason is that the high heat cracks the paint or something and repainting after the first ride takes care of that.  I've only got about 30,000 miles on my header and I'm half expecting a hole to show up any day now.

imikie

does it have springs attached 2 tha headers,if so remove bolt under motor and exhaust can,remove header springs and wiggle forward and remove .do oil change reinstall,easy.
mickeyboy