again engine mounts

[las1200]

hi everyone,

in the quest of eliminating vibrations and after carb sycn with little or no effect,
now it's time for the engine mounts lube thing...
read fjflyer exelent info on yahoo groups (my thanks) but still some doubts...
sould I remove bolts on each side one at a time to prevent engine from falling?
Do I really need to remove the rubber axle? (the third bolt at bottom)
Why not keeping it during procedure to hold engine?
There should exist some thightning/retaining small bolt for this axle at the right side of the engine frame?
It seems to be missing...

thanks

[SlowOldGuy]

The engine won't go anywhere when you remove the front mounts.  There are 2 other mounts still holding it in place.

DavidR.

[andyb]

^ Assuming they're still there!!  Never trust the prior owner(s)!

Should be held by two at the rear (top and bottom) though.  Might shift if they're loose/worn/buggered but shouldn't be too bad, just may make sticking things back together a pinch harder.  Stick a jack under the motor if you're concerned.

[las1200]

Do I really need to remove the rubber axle? (the third bolt at bottom)
Why not keeping it during procedure to hold engine?
There should exist some thightning/retaining small bolt for this axle at the right side of the engine frame?
It seems to be missing...

thanks

How about this?

[SlowOldGuy]

Maybe the translation, but I have no idea what you're trying to describe.

[Travis398]

1 Picture = 1,000 words 

[Fudge]

I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 'third bolt at bottom'.  I followed these directions:

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=594.0

You have to build the tool (see link) that will pull the collar out of the engine mount, not the bushing in the frame.  I would do one side at a time, the engine won't fall out.  Once out clean up the collar, apply grease liberally and the collar will slide into the engine mount and be able to rotate easily which is the way it's supposed to work.

It takes a little work, but definitely worth the time.

[las1200]

maybe confusing, ok, sorry.

already removed bolts and going to do collar removal.
Those damn bolts were very very hard to remove!
My wrenches (low grade) didn't survived the job. See photo. had to to buy new good ones...
Did 1st version of tool but failled due to soft metal bolt. Tomorow will try with new hard metal bolt.
All looks very siezed witch may explain vibrations on bike.  

The bolt I mentioned in my first post can see seen below...
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1569
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1570

And here my poor tools...
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1571

Sorry, still learning to post images. Don't know yet.

[Arnie]

Ahhh, those bolts.  They don't need to be removed for this.
I found that I was able to break the collar free by using a properly sized drift and a very proper hammer. 
I too mangled the threads on a homemade puller tool first.

Now you know your tools are not up to the job. :-)  Good excuse to get decent quality tools.
You don't need to buy most expensive, but you do need tools that will last a lifetime.

Cheers,
Arnie

[las1200]

You're wright Arnie,

Tried with a bigger and harder bolt in the tool and it didn't move (the collar) at all!
Bolt survided but nothing happened.
I will try to hammer it out as you did. Any special suggestion? on that drifter and hammer?

thanks

[Bob]

After removing the two bolts on each side I soaked the collars with penetrating oil and let them sit overnight.  It was still a challenge to get them to move, but I think it helped.  Patience. 

[Arnie]

50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF is a GREAT penetrating oil. (don't smoke while using it and try to not breathe the fumes)
I used an appropriately sized deep socket on a 1/2" 6" extension as my "drift".  More to "shock" the collar free and break the corrosion holding it than to "press" it out.

Arnie

[las1200]

Thanks guys for help.

Did pretty much the way you said, Arnie.
Left collar was REALLY hard to come out. Right was easy.
Greased all very well and fitted everything back together.
Tomorow will test it.

stay tunned...

[las1200]

Test ride made.
Big difference for the better!
from 3000revs and up no more vibrations. Smooth as silk.
Idle ok as well.
Yet some considerable vibrations mainly at 2000.
Any further suggestions?

[Arnie]

Yep!  On 91+ FJ's don't ride below 3000 rpm.

Arnie

Test ride made.
Big difference for the better!
from 3000revs and up no more vibrations. Smooth as silk.
Idle ok as well.
Yet some considerable vibrations mainly at 2000.
Any further suggestions?