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92 FJ FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS

Started by Riolongo, June 11, 2010, 11:17:40 PM

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Riolongo

I have some vibration and will be inspecting the rubber bushings for wear. I've heard all that is required is a little grease and re-assemble, is this correct and is there a specific torque spec?

Mike

Fudge

Here is what you're looking for: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=594.0

It makes a world of difference, well worth the effort.  Not sure about the torque specs, I would consult the manual on that one.

Riolongo

Thanks for the all the info it will be helpful. I'm guessing there is a rubber bushing in there somewhere that I'll find. It looks like you have to use jack stands, is that the way you did it?

Mike

SlowOldGuy

No rubber bushing on the motor side.  It's a steel sleeve in a bronze(?) collar.  When workign correctly, the sleeve rotates in the collar and allows the rubber bushings to absorb the vibration.  Corrosion causes the sleeve to bind to the collar creating a solid mount that transmitt all the vibration.   

The tool in the link presses the sleeve out of the collar.  Once that's accomplished, clean the sleeve and collar, grease everything up and reassemble.  Jack stand is not required, the engine won't move.  Be careful not to press the collar out of the front engine mount.  1000% improvement when complete.

DavidR.

Riolongo

Thanks David, I'll tackle this over the next couple of weeks as right now the weather is awesome and I just want to ride.

Mike

Riolongo

Quote from: SlowOldGuy on June 12, 2010, 09:19:38 PM
No rubber bushing on the motor side.  It's a steel sleeve in a bronze(?) collar.  When workign correctly, the sleeve rotates in the collar and allows the rubber bushings to absorb the vibration.  Corrosion causes the sleeve to bind to the collar creating a solid mount that transmitt all the vibration.   

The tool in the link presses the sleeve out of the collar.  Once that's accomplished, clean the sleeve and collar, grease everything up and reassemble.  Jack stand is not required, the engine won't move.  Be careful not to press the collar out of the front engine mount.  1000% improvement when complete.

DavidR.

David, just wanted to confirm a couple of things. Firstly once I press out the sleeve all I need to do is clean it and then coat it in wheel bearing grease and reassemble? There is nothing required for the front mount with the rubber bushing nearest the wheel?

Thanks,

Mike

Arnie

Mike,

That's right.  You need nothing other than some grease for the front mounts.  When they're clean and greased, you should be able to assemble them by hand.

If you still have a lot of vibration, check the lower frame rails where they bolt to the frame behind the footrest plates.  Those bolts can loosen or shear and you'll get vibes from that too.

Cheers,
Arnie

Riolongo

Thanks Arnie, I'll be starting tonight.

Mike

Riolongo

Quote from: Arnie on June 15, 2010, 09:30:21 AM
Mike,

That's right.  You need nothing other than some grease for the front mounts.  When they're clean and greased, you should be able to assemble them by hand.

If you still have a lot of vibration, check the lower frame rails where they bolt to the frame behind the footrest plates.  Those bolts can loosen or shear and you'll get vibes from that too.

Cheers,
Arnie

Arnie, I've completed the cleaning, greasing and am re-assembling. Having a %$^###@%^ of a time getting the spacer tube back in place, by that I mean the sleeve that fits over the long bolt from one side to the other, is there a trick to this or an order of assembly I'm missing?

Thanks,

Mike

Riolongo

Quote from: Riolongo on June 16, 2010, 11:23:37 AM
Quote from: Arnie on June 15, 2010, 09:30:21 AM
Mike,

That's right.  You need nothing other than some grease for the front mounts.  When they're clean and greased, you should be able to assemble them by hand.

If you still have a lot of vibration, check the lower frame rails where they bolt to the frame behind the footrest plates.  Those bolts can loosen or shear and you'll get vibes from that too.

Cheers,
Arnie
[/quote

Forgot to ask, do you know the recommended torque settings for all the engine mount bolts?

Thanks again,

mike

Arnie, I've completed the cleaning, greasing and am re-assembling. Having a %$^###@%^ of a time getting the spacer tube back in place, by that I mean the sleeve that fits over the long bolt from one side to the other, is there a trick to this or an order of assembly I'm missing?

Thanks,

Mike

Arnie

Mike,

Front through bolt and nut                         90 N-m  or 65 ft/lbs.
same for the mount  bracket to frame bolt.

There 'should' be a table of torque settings in the "file" section.

As for that *blasted* tube.... It is difficult.  The last time I did one I used a tapered pin punch on one end and a thin piece of sheet metal as a ramp so I could tap the tube into place.

Cheers,
Arnie

Riolongo

Okay, I may have to try that but I was also thinking about using a hydraulic porta power and trying to spread the frame slightly, not sure if this will work or not. Anyone else out there had any experience putting this sleeve back in place?

mike

Riolongo

Okay job completed and I discovered a rather simple way of re-installing the sleeve. Firstly, I put it in the freezer overnight but in hindsight this may not have been necessary. The key for my particular situation was that I discovered the two extra tabs at the base of the motor which work perfectly as leverage points, a small amount of leverage in this spot allows for enought deflection to drop the sleeve into place without any issues. Hopefully this will help out anyone else who is tasked with the re&re of their engine mounts.

Mike

Riolongo

Quote from: Arnie on June 15, 2010, 09:30:21 AM
Mike,

That's right.  You need nothing other than some grease for the front mounts.  When they're clean and greased, you should be able to assemble them by hand.

If you still have a lot of vibration, check the lower frame rails where they bolt to the frame behind the footrest plates.  Those bolts can loosen or shear and you'll get vibes from that too.

Cheers,
Arnie

Arnie, sorry to be a PITA but can you be a little more specific about the lower frame rail bolts. I have cleaned and greased the motor mounts, tightened every bolt I could find and still have considerable vibration, no improvement.

Thanks,

Mike

Arnie

Quote from: Riolongo on June 25, 2010, 11:01:51 PM
Quote from: Arnie on June 15, 2010, 09:30:21 AM
Mike,

That's right.  You need nothing other than some grease for the front mounts.  When they're clean and greased, you should be able to assemble them by hand.

If you still have a lot of vibration, check the lower frame rails where they bolt to the frame behind the footrest plates.  Those bolts can loosen or shear and you'll get vibes from that too.

Cheers,
Arnie

Arnie, sorry to be a PITA but can you be a little more specific about the lower frame rail bolts. I have cleaned and greased the motor mounts, tightened every bolt I could find and still have considerable vibration, no improvement.

Thanks,

Mike

Ok, Go here:  http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

Go to: Motorcycle - 92 - FJ1200D
Then choose "FRAME"

On the XPD (exploded parts diagram) it shows the lower frame rails.  (The tube you had difficulty re-installing goes between the mounts that are at the front/upper part of this frame rail.
The bolts, PN 33 are the ones that can loosen and/or sheer. 
They are a bit difficult to see because you have to remove the footplates to get access to them.

Hope that helps.

PS  Have you balanced the carbs yet?  This is important.

Cheers,
Arnie