Electrical power but no go

[Gamut]

Realize this is quite old but have a similar issue and most suggestions have been checked. Ignition on, neutral light on but when pressing the start button the oil light lights up and nothing else. Indicators work, lights work. Sometimes the engine would start up as normal but seems whatever the problem is has escalated to a "no-go" forever.
I have what I think the issue might be which is the "flasher unit" located under the fairing (that's what we call it anyway) which has melted the housing. Saw a similar occurrence on a '89 FZR though that one is still working. Tried the FZR unit on the FJ1100 but it slips in too easily on the connector block so it could be that it's not making proper contact. Have bent the connectors a bit to get a solid fit but still the same.
I'm seriously fed-up and considering taking this thing to a junk yard. If it wasn't for the amount of money already spent on a total rebuild the choice would've been so much easier.
The part number is 41R-83350-71-00 but before ordering a new unit I need to be sure before spending the money.

[Sparky84]

Have you checked your kill switch ?

[Gamut]

Have you checked your kill switch ?

Been disconnected some time ago and yes, did check the wiring. Button broke so I totally removed it with wires isolated.

[Pat Conlon]

Is there power to your start relay?
Both sides, signal power to coil and starter power.
Do you have a side stand switch? If so, isolate it by tieing the circuit together (close the circuit)
Do you have a clutch safety switch? If so try starting your bike in neutral.
A bad flasher relay that's removed should not interrupt the start circuit.

[Gamut]

Is there power to your start relay?
Both sides, signal power to coil and starter power.
Do you have a side stand switch? If so, isolate it by tieing the circuit together (close the circuit)
Do you have a clutch safety switch? If so try starting your bike in neutral.
A bad flasher relay that's removed should not interrupt the start circuit.

Yes there's power.
No side stand switch and engine won't start unless it's in neutral.
That's the whole issue - the flasher unit (as per part number) does not only control the indicators. It has a set of 4 pins, central 2 pins and another 4 pins.
The unit plastic cover is all melted as if a relay coil didn't release when it was supposed to. Definitely excessive heat.

[Sparky84]

Just to confirm as Pat mentioned,
Do you have power to starter motor when pushing starter button ?

I've pulled one of those relays apart and under cover is a blob od "silicone", like they filled it with it after fitting cover so no one could copy what they used, they attached diagram shows 5 wires to that module(20) that Only control blinkers.

Can you bump start it at all, just trying to rule out starter motor failure.

[Sparky84]

Forgot to add diagram

[Pat Conlon]

The flasher relay on bikes with self canceling function has multiple pins.
Distance measurement by odometer, etc,

Start interrupt is not one function of the flasher relay.

[T Legg]

The "flasher relay"  relay also contains the diode block which is part of the starting relay coil circuit. I have a picture of the wiring diagram from the factory repair manual but that diagram is incorrect. I have a corrected version I made back in Reno.I'm out of town up in Idaho right now but when I get back I'll post a copy of the corrected diagram. Actually I do have the copy I corrected so this picture is correct.

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

I will say I've begun developing this issue as well, I'll go to crank the bike, no starter, oil light comes on. I jog the kill switch a few times and she'll fire up.

I too have my clutch, and sidestand switched bypassed (jumpered).

I'll try some contact cleaner on the kill switch, then maybe pull the relay and apply power to the coil and see if I can isolate it there.

[Gamut]

I will say I've begun developing this issue as well, I'll go to crank the bike, no starter, oil light comes on. I jog the kill switch a few times and she'll fire up.

I too have my clutch, and sidestand switched bypassed (jumpered).

I'll try some contact cleaner on the kill switch, then maybe pull the relay and apply power to the coil and see if I can isolate it there.

As mentioned before, I've terminated the kill switch wires and removed the switch itself. Will definitely try your second suggestion. Thanks very much.

[Gamut]

Just to confirm as Pat mentioned,
Do you have power to starter motor when pushing starter button ?

I've pulled one of those relays apart and under cover is a blob od "silicone", like they filled it with it after fitting cover so no one could copy what they used, they attached diagram shows 5 wires to that module(20) that Only control blinkers.

Can you bump start it at all, just trying to rule out starter motor failure.

When jumping the starter solenoid the motor turns but doesn't take. I've experimented with an FZR unit (looks identical) and when removing the the relay it shows the same. Motor doesn't swing at all.

[Gamut]

The flasher relay on bikes with self canceling function has multiple pins.
Distance measurement by odometer, etc,

Start interrupt is not one function of the flasher relay.

Hi Pat, just out of interest and why I suspect this unit - had access to a '89 FZR 1000. It has a similar relay to the FJs. When removing the relay we got a similar situation where the motor wouldn't swing. I've borrowed this one (also with a melted plastic enclosure) which I will try on my FJ this afternoon. Bought a used unit from a local salvage shop and experienced that the starter would kick in continuously until I physical unplug the relay. The salvage yard had it labelled as a FJ1200 part which I doubt (physically much smaller than mine) but it was obviously faulty.
 

[Gamut]

The "flasher relay"  relay also contains the diode block which is part of the starting relay coil circuit. I have a picture of the wiring diagram from the factory repair manual but that diagram is incorrect. I have a corrected version I made back in Reno.I'm out of town up in Idaho right now but when I get back I'll post a copy of the corrected diagram. Actually I do have the copy I corrected so this picture is correct.

This is great. Thanks very much. Will help a lot trying to resolve this issue. Much appreciated.

[Gamut]

  Thanks so much for all the information and tips on where to check. As mentioned before I removed the kill switch and jumped the switch wires and yes, they were corroded! Instead of just following the advice of "check the kill switch" it was left until today. All well it seems. Have a rally on coming weekend so I'm really happy it's all sorted.