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Steering Stem - Cutting out old bearing cups, how exactly?

Started by blackboat, June 06, 2010, 01:28:14 PM

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blackboat

Hi all, sitting here with no front end on my FJ, ready to put in new steering stem bearings, but there's this little problem of how to get the old cups gone. The bottom cup on the head is the worst; no way to drive it out like the Clymer manual suggests. Upper cup on head has enough lip I maybe can get that one. Also the inner race on the bottom of the stem (destroyed the cage & seals, so only the inner race is left) seems like it has found a permanent home & doesn't want to leave.

I have searched, here & the british site, and all I can find is stuff like "I used a Dremel tool", or "weld a bar across the bottom cup, then drive it out using the bar". Welder can't get to the bike, so that's not an option.

What I am seeking basically, is details on cutting them out with a Dremel tool (actually pencil die grinder in my case, but should be the same). Seems to me if a cut-off disk is used then somewhere in there you'll be cutting into the head tubing. I've never found the small Dremel cylindrical stones to last long, though a cylinder would allow cutting into the corner without getting into frame material. Just seems it might take a lot of them.

So, if you please, what am I missing here? These are the last parts to come off the bike for now, and once the problem is solved I actually can start putting the whole mess back together.

Thanks,

Rob

Yamifj1200

I cant hep you with the lower bearing cup in the frame. You can cut the inner race off of the tripple with a small cutting disk, or several as the case may be and a dremil or similar tool. Just be careful when your going through the race. I have been able to deeply score the lower race almost going through and used a chisel to break the bearing at the score mark. Good luck...

Eric M


http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=14833.0


"All unattended children will be served an espresso and given a puppy"

FJ Flyer

The theory goes is that you use a die grinder or dremel and cut ALMOST thru the race.  Then you hit it with a cold chisel and it will crack and come off.  This worked for me on the upper outer race and the inner races.  Not so much on the lower outer race as you really can't get the chisel in there to hit it.

Hippie Cain made a custom lower outer race removal tool (CLORRT), which he humbly loaned to me.   :good2:  Took two seconds to get the race out with that tool.  I had visions of putting the bike, sans front end, in the truck and taking it somewhere to get that damn race out.

There have been posts with links of other types of removal tools, none which seemed 100% effective.
Chris P.
'16 FJR1300ES
'87 FJ1200
'76 DT250

Wear your gear.


simi_ed

So what exactly does the H-CLORRT look like?  I used a Dremel, and ground the ever-lovin' sh*t out of it, nick the steering tube a touch, THEN managed to chisel/break it out.  Not fun, and I KNEW what I was in for!
-- RKBA Regards,

Ed
===
Ed Thiele 
Simi Valley, CA -- I no longer have SoCal manners.
'89 FJ12C (Theft deterrent Silver/White)


- All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for
enough good men to do nothing.

- Edmund Burke

Arnie

Is that the (not so) famous Hippie Cain Lower Race Removal Tool? Never heard of it.
I used a dremel type cut off wheel and cut the race on a diagonal in two places then used a small cold chisel to snap the race and have it drop out.
I got the inner race off the lower triple with brute force and swearing.
If there's a next time, I'll try and lay a bead of weld on the race (or have a friend whos a much better welder than me do it).  Or just sell the bike and buy another.

Cheers,
Arnie

mz_rider

Quote from: Arnie on June 07, 2010, 09:57:51 AM
Is that the (not so) famous Hippie Cain Lower Race Removal Tool? Never heard of it.
I used a dremel type cut off wheel and cut the race on a diagonal in two places then used a small cold chisel to snap the race and have it drop out.
I got the inner race off the lower triple with brute force and swearing.
If there's a next time, I'll try and lay a bead of weld on the race (or have a friend whos a much better welder than me do it).  Or just sell the bike and buy another.

Cheers,
Arnie

Arnie,

That's exactly how I did it and ditto on the welding if there is ever a next time. The Haynes manual shows a special tool (an internal bearing extractor?) :shout: - an expanding tube with a rod to drive the race out.

Stuart

mz_rider

Sorry, that stupid head in my message was an accident - I hate the things.

Stuart

weymouth399

Maybe being from maine I think simple. but for over 25 years now all I have ever used to remove old races was a old motor mount bolt from something, 16 plus inchs long grind the hex off and taper the theaded end
you could do the same thing with 3/8 or 1/2 rod. Then pound them out carefully walk it around the race.
Not very hard don't over think it.
there are times cutting the race is required but not often
Bob
84 FJ 1100
86 FJ1200
89 FJ1200
5  FJ POWERED race cars
76 LB80 Chappy
93 KX500 ice for sale
00 KX500 ice/dirt
04 KDX220 dirt for sale
04 KX500 ice
08 KLX450 ice/road
72 CT90x2 for sale

RichBaker

I've always used the same method, Bob........ until I did the FJ.  The shoulder in the head tube is wider than the race, can't get a punch on it.....  :dash1:

I cut the race, same as Arnie and Stuart, then put several little 1/2 moon divots in the shoulder so I could punch it oput the next time.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

blackboat

Thanks for all the suggestions; that bottom cup with no way of getting a punch on it is not the brightest thing I've ever seen.

I'm thinking of grinding in a couple of places for punch clearance. If that doesn't work I'll fall back on the cut off wheel and cold chisel, making multiple cuts to try & knock out pieces and not distort the head tube.

The piece left on the stem will get the welder treatment. Unfortunately don't have the welder wired where I can get near the bike to work on the head cup.

If the weather's good I'll take the next run at it tomorrow evening.

Thanks all,

Rob

fj1289

Rob,

I'm not sure welding the race on the stem is the way to go - doesn't that cause the race the shrink as the weld cools? 

The best way I've found so far is to use a press.  I press press the stem out of the lower triple clamp and then press it back through while pressing the new bearing on at the same time.  NOTE!  The stem gets pressed DOWNWARD - out the bottom of the lower triple!

I use an old race that I've ground out the ID slightly so it slides freely on the stem as a boss; that way I am sure not to press on the roller cage of the new bearing. 

Good luck!

Chris

junkyardroad

Quotedoesn't that cause the race the shrink as the weld cools?

It does.  The race will usually drop right out.  If not, then you have a surface to seat a punch on and tap it out.  Works great.

Unless you don't have a welder.  Then splitting them with a Dremel cut off wheel is the way to go.

fj1289

Quote from: junkyardroad on June 07, 2010, 09:59:10 PM
Quotedoesn't that cause the race the shrink as the weld cools?

It does.  The race will usually drop right out.  If not, then you have a surface to seat a punch on and tap it out.  Works great.

Unless you don't have a welder.  Then splitting them with a Dremel cut off wheel is the way to go.

That's why I wouldn't do the weld technique on the race on the steering stem!  Seems like it would make it even tighter!

I am going to have to get myself a welder one day though!

junkyardroad

QuoteThat's why I wouldn't do the weld technique on the race on the steering stem!  Seems like it would make it even tighter

You are right, I read that as "neck" not stem. I will force an extra beer down my throat as punishment.  :drinks:

The right answer is to split the race by cutting a deep groove in it, then a sharp rap with a chisel. One cut should do it.

pdxfj