New to the forum

[T Legg]

Thats a very good point. I have ruined an engine on one of my fj1100's due to chain failure.
 The choice of tools is important too. Ive tried a motion pro tool and it was worthless. I tried a stockton tool version and it was much sturdier but failed on the second chain I used it on during the riveting process. I will try the DID version next time I do a chain.

[Chainlube]

Thats a very good point. I have ruined an engine on one of my fj1100's due to chain failure.
 The choice of tools is important too. Ive tried a motion pro tool and it was worthless. I tried a stockton tool version and it was much sturdier but failed on the second chain I used it on during the riveting process. I will try the DID version next time I do a chain.

I have been a professional motorcycle mechanic for over 35 years, and I will swear by Motion Pro's PBR chain tool.  I have been using for several years on customer bikes, roadracers bikes as well as my own.  It is an awesome tool.  Note that I do not use it to break a chain.  I use a cutting wheel to grind down a couple of pins and a chisel to pry off that plate.  Easy Peasy.  https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0470

[RPM - Robert]

Thanks yall,
I've been browsing rpm looking at their sprockets and I'll definitely take what yall are running into consideration. I'm used to my shaft driven XVS LOL so this'll be my first time tuning the driveline on a bike. Personally I would like to tune more the low end. I plan on spending most of my time on the backroads instead of the highway so I feel like that's the direction I should lean towards. They do have a 38 rear and 18 front so I'll probably grab that.

Take care yall until next time.

I would still ride a 18/38 or 18/39 combo The cruising RPM is much more acceptable and the bike has more than enough torque to pull the taller gear ratio.

And as others have said get a good chain. The forum has seen it's fair share of broken cheaper chains and smashed up crankcases over the years. We use and sell the DID chain rivet/breaker tool, we also sell the Motion pro tool.

[red]

The choice of tools is important too. . .  I tried a stockton tool version and it was much sturdier but failed on the second chain I used it on during the riveting process. I will try the DID version next time I do a chain.

T Legg,

Never saw a chain tool fail like that before.  Either chain pins are much tougher now, or the tool is made from the wrong grade of steel.  Most bike chains are not as tough as the FJ chain.
I could see grinding the riveted head of a chain pin flush with the chain plate, before using the chain-breaker tool on the pin head that you just ground flush.
I could also see using a C-clamp to keep the ends of the tool from spreading like that, before using any force on the tool screw-pin.
Let us know if the DID tool does the job.

[Pat Conlon]

Love my DID tool....been using it for many years.  In trying to push out a pin, I managed to break the tool's press pin by not understanding the index marks.
 Buy a couple extra tool pins to keep in the case.

[T Legg]

The stockton tool had no problem punching out the old rivet's ( I do grind the head off the old rivet first) the failure happened while riveting the new link. The T handle threads into a hole drilled into the middle of the tool and that created the weak spot where the tool bent.
 I bad mouthed motion pros tool but I had a cheaper version than the one chainlube is using. The tool I had looked almost the same as the stockton tool. That tool also failed during riveting but on that tool the anvil that supports the back of the pin being riveted gave way and the pin I was trying to rivet was driven right through it.
 The motion pro pbr tool looks very different.Ive never used one of those. I like that the did tool handle is on the end not in the middle like on the stockton tool but I haven't used one of those either

[Motofun]

I gave up trying to push the pins out on a chain.  I cut the old chain off now...quicker and less likely to cause swear words.  When resetting the new rivets it's not necessary to squash the living daylights out of the new pins....

[RPM - Robert]

We also cut them off with a die grinder. Takes all of 10 seconds and since we won't be re using any part of the chain on these things no need to save anything.

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

Right on!
I was planning on grabbing that chain Fred had initially linked/mentioned. I've already seen enough videos of chain failures to know too stay away from cheap parts.

Also thank you Robert! Honestly everyone's input saves me a lot of time with narrowing things out. I'll grab the chain tool at the same time as the sprockets.

[RPM - Robert]

We sell and use the DID chain and have never had a problem with them. The EK chain is also a very good chain both are rated for over 10,000lbs of tensile strength and the EK is a touch stronger even.

If you are getting the 120 chain though, I believe you will need to push pins out so you can get the length correct.

The DID we sell is already 110 links and the proper length.

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

Coming back to this real quick, what size/type cotter pin do I use?

As a side note, does anyone know what size C clip I would need for my shifter shaft? Mine is being held on by baling wire (not pictured) from the PO

[Pat Conlon]

Coming back to this real quick, what size/type cotter pin do I use?

As a side note, does anyone know what size C clip I would need for my shifter shaft? Mine is being held on by baling wire (not pictured) from the PO

The circlip is available from Yamaha $2.50
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/99009-12400-00

Don't know what cotter pin you're referring to...

[FJmonkey]

Don't know what cotter pin you're referring to...

Chain related, I think the cotter pin is for the rear axle nut retainer.

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

yeah my bad for the confusion, but that would be it!

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

Reason I asked about the size was so that I could get it at Ace rather than waiting for shipping. Not to mention the cost in shipping is more than the clip itself