Question on front end options.

[benwjj42]

My '84 still has the (mostly) original front end setup.  The anti-dives are bypassed and the previous owner swapped the springs.  Other than that it's stock.  The fork seals are starting to go, it will need brakes this season, and my front master cylinder needs a rebuild.  Since I have been wanting more braking power, I am wondering whether it is worth rebuilding or going for a swap. I was hoping this group could help me out a bit here deciding what makes the most sense.  Given the circumstances, what would you do?  Anything I am missing?

From what I understand, these are my options:

1. Rebuild the stock forks and brakes.
Nothing special here.  Buy the parts, do the labor, no performance gained.

2. Rebuild the stock forks.  Get Vmax adapter brackets.
I could keep the stock forks/wheel and get vmax adapter brackets to allow for installation of blue/gold dots.  My concern here is that the brackets aren't exactly cheap and it just adds more dead weight to the front end (adding to the already non-functional anti-dives).

3. Swap in 89+ forks.
I am wondering how much more this would cost than rebuilding the stock systems. The prices on 89+ actually seem pretty reasonable when they come up, especially considering the cost to rebuild my stock ones.  From what I understand here, this will allow me to install some blue/gold dots.  I will also need an 89+ front wheel though, right? Or an 87-88 FZR1000 front wheel (which seems impossible to find)?  Is it possible to use the 84 wheel with 89+ forks?  Is the difference in handling with a 17" wheel worth the trouble and cost of obtaining the parts?

4. Swap in a modern front end
It seems that these all require fabrication to some extent.  While I am capable, I think I have too many other projects going on to take this on.

[Urx]

Option 3 will give you the most for the least modification.
Get good 3cv forks, fit rpm valves and springs
Use an easy to find 89onwards fzr1000 wheel and swap the bearings for the special ones with 15mm id.
This then fits directly with no mods and looks factory. Much better tyre profile
This way you get the best front end with bolt on blue spots. Use a 14mm bore master cylinder for best results.

[red]

From what I understand, these are my options:
4. Swap in a modern front end
It seems that these all require fabrication to some extent.  While I am capable, I think I have too many other projects going on to take this on.

benwjj42,

If you want better brakes, stainless-steel braided hydraulic hoses will do much better than ancient rubber hoses.  You can get custom-made hoses, or any decent hydraulics shop can duplicate what you have, and maybe in custom colors.  Get the pivoting hose ends; regular hydraulic hoses can not be twisted to fit, without them.  You may decide that the existing master cylinder and calipers are actually all that you need, with the better hoses.

A front end swap can get you a 17" front wheel, new brakes, new(er) suspension, new axle, and it all fits.  The cost may be a very reasonable price, maybe for less money than new brakes alone would cost.  Much less work, too. 

If you don't have a lift, here is a cheap and capable DIY lift, to help you.  It uses black-iron plumbing pipe and tie-down ratchet straps.  It folds flat to the wall, when not in use.  Pre-cut, pre-threaded pipe lengths are cheap.  Custom lengths of threaded pipe are costly.  The top pipe should be a foot (30cm) or so above the handlebars, as shown in the first two pix; it doesn't need to be very tall.
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/frontstand.html
HTH.

[Flynt]

I was hoping this group could help me out a bit here deciding what makes the most sense.  Given the circumstances, what would you do?  Anything I am missing?

My '84 has stock front end with AD defeated...  I added RPM valves and springs as well as their fork brace and the performance is pretty impressive.  For the brakes, I put SS lines and some nice Braking rotors from RPM with the EBC HH brake pads in stock calipers (front, rears are the organic compound with stock caliper)...  result is a strong 1 finger setup and VERY strong 2 finger.  I kept the rear organic since, for me at least, the HH or even semi-metallic made it far too easy to lock the rear while trail braking...  not good!

My limitation now is getting a 16" front tire worth having, but I bought a few Avon's to get me through for a while.

Frank

[giantkiller]

Inverted all the way. I used 2008 gsxr1000 forks...

[Pat Conlon]

I was hoping this group could help me out a bit here deciding what makes the most sense.  Given the circumstances, what would you do?  Anything I am missing?

What is your budget?  Do you have other motorcycles to ride while you do this?
Sounds like you are constrained with your time.

[benwjj42]

Thanks for all the suggestions. To provide a bit more information, my buget is about $500. This bike already has stainless lines.  It's also going to need a front tire.  It has the Avons on it now, and I'm not a huge fan of how they wore.

It sounds like piecing together a swap is best bang for my buck and time. Considering I am going to need a tire, rotors, pads, forks bushings/seals, and a master cylinder rebuild to keep what I have now, 3CV forks and a 17" wheel might even be cheaper.

I just have a few questions:

1) For the 3CV forks, is there any difference between the ABS and non-ABS models?  I was eying these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/354772640185?hash=item529a18e1b9:g:FMMAAOSwRExi2Gjd&am
2) Is there any advantage to going with an 89+ FZR1000 rim over a 89+ 17" FJ1200 wheel? (besides the bearing swap)
3) For either the FZR or later FJ wheel, will I be using the newer rotors or my existing rotors?
4) Will the new wheel/tire fit my existing front fender or will I need to swap that as well?

[mike g]

think the fzr 1000 is 3.5 inch and the FJ is only 3. either will take a 120 / 70 17, but I think they are more suited to the 3.5

[Sparky84]

A front end swap can get you a 17" front wheel, new brakes, new(er) suspension, new axle, and it all fits.  The cost may be a very reasonable price, maybe for less money than new brakes alone would cost.  Much less work, too. 

So which year forks for 84 1100? Is it 88 or 89? Which has to right axle size without any special bearings

Got a FZR front wheel.

My limitation now is getting a 16" front tire worth having, but I bought a few Avon's to get me through for a while.

Frank

That's the problem , getting the tyres. I'm running a Dunlop GT601F and Avon Spirit, but now it doesn't seem that I can get the Avon anymore.

[Pat Conlon]

Any FJ forks from '88 to '95 will work....they all use the same 15mm dia. axle and have 41mm dia. stanchion tubes so they fit in your stock '84 triple clamps.

FYI only the '87 and '88 FZR1000 or FZR750 used the 15mm dia. axle for true plug and play with the FJ.
Not so with the 1989 and later FZR's which used the larger 17mm dia axle.

Cheers

[Sparky84]

Any FJ forks from '88 to '95 will work....they all use the same 15mm dia. axle and have 41mm dia. stanchion tubes so they fit in your stock '84 triple clamps.

FYI only the '87 and '88 FZR1000 or FZR750 used the 15mm dia. axle for true plug and play with the FJ.
Not so with the 1989 and later FZR's which used the larger 17mm dia axle.

Cheers

Thanks, so it's only the wheels with the different size axle which then need the odd size bearings. 

With the forks, isn't there a difference with length on some years ?

[Pat Conlon]

With the forks, isn't there a difference with length on some years ?

No biggie... the longer tubes are easily compensated by sliding the tubes up in the triple clamps.

Here are the fork tube lengths:

YAMAHA   FJ 1100   1984-1985   41x612
YAMAHA   FJ 1200   1986-1990   41x612
YAMAHA   FJ 1200   1991-1992   41x625
YAMAHA   FJ 1200 A   1991-1996   41x625
YAMAHA   FJ 1200 ABS   1992         41x629

As you can see the ABS are the longest at 629mm and the 84-90 the shortest at 612mm.
About 3/4" of a difference between the longest and shortest tubes.

[aviationfred]

Inverted all the way. I used 2008 gsxr1000 forks...

I am with Dan..... inverted for me