Might buy an FJ1200. Questions

[caverman]

I'm looking at possibly purchasing a '91 FJ1200 I found locally. I've owned several bikes over the years but I've never ridden an FJ1200, actually, not even sure I've sat on one before. My current bike is a '86 Yamaha Fazer which I absolutely love but it is rather small for me being that it's a 700cc bike and I'm 6'5"/280. I really can't ride on the highway with my Fazer but it hasn't really been a big deal since I rarely ride on the highways. Most of my riding is back country roads. However, this keeps me from doing any group riding because most of the time those involve getting on the highway. I'm looking at the FJ so that I could possibly start to in riding groups. So, sorry for all of the newbie questions I'm about to ask. First off, what's the consensus on buying a Corbin seat? The FJ I'm looking at has the stock seat that was just recovered but there are a lot of FJ's I see that have Corbin seats. Is the stock seat not good for say an hour or two riding at a time? Being kind of tall, do you think I would be more comfortable with getting handle bar risers or maybe lowering the foot pegs? I also saw a review where someone suggested swapping out the front springs for progressive ones and heavier oil, what are thoughts on that? This FJ has a full Yoshi 4-1 pipe, still has the chin fairing, but the center stand is gone. Any idea if I would be able to put a center stand back on? Any quick things I should double check when I go look at the bike in person?

[Pat Conlon]

Good choice on upgrading to a more powerful bike, you need it.

Excepting the bar risers, Pretty much the answer to all your questions is yes.
Yes on the Corbin seat. I'm 6'3" 210lbs and the stock seat is much too soft for my bony ass.
Speaking of bony ass: Here's some underwear I'm going to try on my next tour:
https://winxwheels.com/products/adapt-ultra-shorts-motorcycle-riders
Yes on the lowering pegs. The Buell pegs lower about 1.5" and while it doesn't seem like much, it does indeed make a difference on my 34" inseam legs and my 70 year old knees.


Bar risers: No. I have long arms so I reach the stock handlebars comfortably. I do have a FZ-1 bar on my '84 and while I sit comfortably upright, I find that for best handling with the FZ-1 bar, I must lean forward to shift my body for more weight over the tank and thus the front tire. With the stock handlebars I'm already in the correct body position.
Folks with shorter arms need the bar risers....not so much for us tall guys.
I do highly recommend RPM's bar ends which reduce vibrations. You will be getting a '91 FJ that already has the rubber engine mounts but these RPM bar ends will further reduce the annoying engine vibes.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMbarend

Yes on the stiffer fork springs, absolutely...the soft oem springs are not going to support a big guy like you.
I suggest the .85 or .90 kg/mm straight rate fork springs with the RPM fork valves.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMForkValve

Contact Robert at RPM and let him know your size and weight for proper spring selection.
Remember, the fork springs support the motorcycle but the fork valves control the springs. It's an expensive mod so if you don't have the funds you can at least try the progressive springs with heavier oil, but I would save the $100 you would spend on the progressive springs and add some more money to that and go with the RPM solution.
Speaking of saving your money....Save your money for an aftermarket shock...the weak sauce oem FJ shock sucks.
What to look for on a used FJ?
Get a flash light and look in the tank. If you see heavy rust, I would pass. You can try using electrolysis and remove the rust then apply a tank coating, but thanks to our ethanol laced fuel, I have seem tanks completely rusted through.
Look at the chin fairing (lower cowl) on the rear left side below the clutch slave. Often the seal on the clutch slave goes bad and drips brake fluid on the abs plastic which eats it away.
Look at the service records. See when the last time the valves were adjusted. Do a warm compression check, or better, a leak down. Look at the date code on the tires, etc, etc, etc....

Re: Missing Center stand: I don't think you can fit the oem center stand with the Yoshurmia 4-1 header. I have the same problem with my '84 which uses a dog bone linkage and YZF swing arm....so what to do? How do I lube my chain on tour?
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/tirox-snapjack-v2?sku_id=1788167&srsltid=AfAwrE7a4etNWOXoS0K85_QlmBW5ycQt5DP7WPRugVG6i5XCSGfapgGGip0




You've asked some good questions...kudos!

Pat

[caverman]

Thanks for the info. I'll look into these if I get the bike. Do you have any more info about the rear spring and if you had to start off with the front suspension or rear shock, which would you do first? Any links or info about where to get the lowering foot pegs you mentioned?

[T Legg]

Pat , what pressure do you inflate the underwear to? How much extra leg length do you gain ?

[Millietant]

Easy answers first

1) I don't understand why anyone would change the FJ's standard seat. It's the most comfortable I've ever come across outside of a full dress tourer and I've ridden 500-600+ miles in a day wquite a few times and regularly ride up to 200 miles a day without any discomfort whatsoever (and I'm not "young" at 62yrs) - but then again, I'm 5'8" tall and only weigh about 170lbs in my full riding gear. I'd guess, heavier riders over lots of miles/years will affect the degradation of the seat foam, necessitating a replacement.

1a) If you're thinking of doing something with the seat, why not get some extra depth to the foam, to lift your "butt-position" while on the bike - it'll create more legroom.

2) Buell Ulysses footpegs can be used to lower the footpeg position from standard by about 1" I believe (calling Aviation Fred !!!!) - but if you do that, also put 5mm shorter dog bones on the suspension linkage to raise the rear end (20+mm) and recover some clearance.

3) at 280 lbs on a 31 year old shock, I'd say contact Hagon (from the UK but they deliver to the USA) Shock Absorbers and get a new one set and sprung for your weight and riding (when ordering, give them your details, they usually you for that info, but give it anyway if they don't). They're the cheapest decent quality shock absorbers available for the FJ. YSS are also great, but as they're only sold from stock through a distributor, you don't get the ability to have them set to suit you from the factory. Anything else is twice the price (and more) than either of those two - worth it if you're racing, but not if you're sticking to road riding

4) Get some handlebar risers from RPM (the forum hosts) but be prepared to potentially look for longer cables/hoses if you decide to go higher than the ones they sell.

5) Yes - definitely get a centre-stand (with spring and bolts). You can probably get one from someone on here, or on eBay, or on one of the FB forums - very cheaply. They're essential for roadside touring maintenance (lubing/adjusting the chain, working on the front brakes, getting the wheels off for new tyres etc, etc,etc) and also make packing luggage a much more secure process. With the shorter dog bones, you need never worry about it grounding out during cornering.

6) Fork springs - again, on a bike with 31 year old front suspension, I'd be inclined to give the forks an overhaul any way, but personally wouldn't go for progressive springs - I'd just go for slightly heavier rate straight rate springs (but that's an entirely personal choice - I had progressive springs on my current 3CV and never really liked them, too soft initially and not stiff enough under hard braking/large bumps).

For a 91 model, there are few things to look for that are specific to FJ's - the general rules apply as for any old "superbike" - engine, chain, sprockets, tyres, suspension, brakes, steering head bearings etc all need to be in good working order, with life left in them unless you're buying a "bargain bike". Some of the common issues are not really noticeable/discoverable until you can properly get your mitts on the bike (seized front engine mount bushes), but others are................. has the paint peeled off the sprocket cover/oil filter casing? (a sign of a leaking clutch slave cylinder), has the bike been stood for a while (the carbs clog up if the bike has been stored for any length of time with fuel left in the float bowls - they can be difficult/costly to repair, but again RPM are your friends here) as like with most older bikes, the modern higher ethanol fuels play havoc with carburettors unless the bikes are run regularly. Also check for any "upgrades" - many are worthwhile (Yamaha monoblock "Blue Dot" brake calipers, for example, or braided hydraulic hoses. Rusting and degradation of the painted steel swinging arm is also an issue with high use or neglected bikes that have seen a lot of rain and little cleaning/maintenance.

Bodywork is hard to get hold of in decent condition, if the one you look at has damaged plastics/tank.

This isn't an exhaustive list (just check that you can get to the oil drain plug with the exhaust in place, otherwise it can make oil changes, of which the FJ needs regular ones, a real pain in the butt), but hopefully if you check out or tackle all of those things, you should get/have a nice FJ.

Best of luck with your potential purchase

[Pat Conlon]

Look for Buell XB12-r Firebolt foot pegs.

With your weight you need both front springs *and* a rear shock. Many aftermarket shock choices. RPM, Penske, Hagon, YSS, etc. I would recommend a shock that has an adjustable shaft length for proper rear height adjustment.

You are a big guy. I can't over stress the importance of stiffening up both ends of the suspension.

(Get it? Big guy: over stress, suspension....geeeze I just crack myself up sometimes)  

[Pat Conlon]

Pat , what pressure do you inflate the underwear to? How much extra leg length do you gain ?

Dunno Travis, haven't got 'em yet....extra length? I don't need no stinking extra length...so I've been told.

[Millietant]

Agree with Pat on RPM for the front forks - far better to spend the "right" amount of money with RPM than waste $100 - $150 on something that could be a waste.

[caverman]

I'm back with some new questions. I'm looking at a different FJ and this one is supposed to have a couple things that I'm wanted to see if they are going to be an issue. I'll preface this by saying I've only talked to the owner over the phone and have not seen it. It's a 1992 with 34k.

First off, he says it has a slight oil leak. He says it will leak just enough to slightly show on the floor. He thinks it's coming from the starter and generator area. Maybe a seal on the nose of the starter? He said he has only put about 3k miles on the bike since he bought it and the oil level still shows full. He is supposed to try to get me some pictures. Would you think this sounds like something that could just be a seal or has any one heard about this being semi normal or should I be concerned that it could be a way bigger issue.

He mentioned the lower chin fairing has a crack in it. That is another thing he is supposed to get me a picture of. Is that common? Can they be fixed? I took a quick look on eBay of a used chin and didn't really see anything. Is this a hard to find item?

[FJmonkey]

The Left side of the engine has nearly all the oil galley openings. Starter, alternator, shift shaft, clutch push rod. More common is the valve cover bolts and valve cover. Or it could leak from a cracked case like my '86, not very common.

Chin fairing is made of ABS and can be repaired. Fiberglass after market ones can be found as well but require drilling and paint.

[Old Rider]

As Fjmonkey says many things can leak on left side of engine.It can just be the O-ring on Starter engine or O-ring on the alternator or even the o-ring on oilfilterhousing.
Ask him to wash the engine and use some bakingsoda powder and a camera to see better where the leak comes from.

Hey Pat i solved the pain in my boneass on long trips by taking a brazilian buttlift  feels and looks very good !  nahh just kidding  

[caverman]

The Left side of the engine has nearly all the oil galley openings. Starter, alternator, shift shaft, clutch push rod. More common is the valve cover bolts and valve cover. Or it could leak from a cracked case like my '86, not very common.

Chin fairing is made of ABS and can be repaired. Fiberglass after market ones can be found as well but require drilling and paint.

I guess there is no way to know about it being a cracked case without taking it apart. Something like that is a much bigger concern. I'm assuming cracked crank case can't really be fixed?

I believe he said he already had an aftermarket one that would come with it but wholes aren't drilled so I assume not painted either. Would I be able to find the paint code for the white on a '92 model?

[Old Rider]

If you can get a snake camera and connect to your phone it is easy to get a better look very handy tool.