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FJ 1200 for Russia

Started by Edouard, November 30, 2022, 07:09:40 AM

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Millietant

I never mature y
Quote from: Edouard on August 28, 2025, 02:23:18 AMHi! Can I ask the obvious question: am I tensioning the main drive chain correctly?
The chain has stretched by about 40 mm in 10,000 km.
I put the bike on the center stand and made the stroke about 20 mm, as it should be according to the book (15-20 mm). But when I lowered the bike, the stroke decreased to about 10 mm, will this be enough?
Or do I need to loosen the chain so that under load the chain travel is about 20mm?

i never measure my chain slack on the Centre stand. I only do it either on a paddock stand, or upright with both wheels on the ground (and a helper sitting on it). If your chain only has 10mm of slack  when the bike is off the stand, it is too tight and will be shortening your chain life AND putting extra stress on the gearbox output shaft.

I tend to set mine to around 25mm, figuring slightly loose is better than too tight.
Dean

'89 FJ 1200 3CV - owned from new.
'89 FJ 1200 3CV - no engine, tank, seat....parts bike for the future.
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - complete runner 2024 resto project
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - became a race bike, no longer with us.
'86 FJ 1200 1TX - sold to my boss to finance the '89 3CV I still own.

Motofun

When doing tech inspection on new rider's bikes at the track, the number one fault I find is a chain that is too tight.  All owner's manuals are wrong in my not-so-humble opinion.  When finishing a turn and getting on the throttle the bike will want to squat (this is good).  However, if the chain reaches the limit and goes tight then that's the end of your suspension travel.  The result is a loss of traction, spinning up the rear tire and the possibility(if you cut the throttle) of a high side crash.  I've never seen a chain jump the sprocket on a street /race bike.  It's happened on bicycles and dirt bikes but that's a different story.  There's no one-size-fits-all answer as it depends on many factors but your chain ought to be able to easily slap up against the bottom of the swing arm when the bike is sitting on the rear tire.
'75 Honda CB400F
'85 Yamaha RZ350
'85 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'09 Yamaha 125 Zuma
'09 Kawasaki KZ110 (grand kids)
'13 Suzuki GSXR 750 (track)
'14 Yamaha FZ-09
'23 Yamaha Tenere 7
SOLD: CBX,RZ500,Ninja 650,CB400F,V45 Sabre,CB700SC,R1,GSXR1000R

Edouard

Thanks for the advice! I ride enduro. My main bike is a '92 KDX. On my FJ I set the chain sag to about 20mm on a side stand with a small load, that should be enough.
1991 Yamaha FJ1200A
1992 Kawasaki KDX 200 SR/R
1995 Yamaha Mint
2002 Honda Gyro UP

Pat Conlon

Quote from: Motofun on August 28, 2025, 08:16:19 AMWhen doing tech inspection on new rider's bikes at the track, the number one fault I find is a chain that is too tight.  All owner's manuals are wrong in my not-so-humble opinion.  When finishing a turn and getting on the throttle the bike will want to squat (this is good).  However, if the chain reaches the limit and goes tight then that's the end of your suspension travel.  The result is a loss of traction, spinning up the rear tire and the possibility(if you cut the throttle) of a high side crash.  I've never seen a chain jump the sprocket on a street /race bike.  It's happened on bicycles and dirt bikes but that's a different story.  There's no one-size-fits-all answer as it depends on many factors but your chain ought to be able to easily slap up against the bottom of the swing arm when the bike is sitting on the rear tire.

^^^ From your lips to God's ears.....IOW, a loose chain is a happy chain!
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3