News:

           Enjoy your FJ


Main Menu

Valve guide oil seals

Started by swiftnick, November 07, 2022, 02:16:27 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

swiftnick

My FJ gives a nice little cloud of smoke from both mufflers when I start her after sitting for a few days. It stops smoking once the motor warms up and doesn't smoke again until the next time it sits a while before a start. Classic valve guide oil seal weep to my mind. I've replaced these before in other similar design DOHC motors (Honda CB900 and 1100F) by simply removing the cams and buckets then popping the keepers etc. Looks like this motor is easier as there are no frame tubes to get in the way over the motor. Has anyone done this? Any tips or peculiarities to be aware of? Also looking for a good source of seals, Viton preferred.

Pat Conlon

Yes, the aftermarket Viton valve seals are the best.



Available from RPM: http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Head%3AVSS&cat=39

Re: Replacement. 2 ways, 1) remove head and 2) leave head on engine.
Head on engine has been done before, here's a link for info on a special tool used with the spring compressor:

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=10862.0

....along with a write up on the method: https://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11718.0

By the time you fabricated the tool, it might be faster to pull the head, which can be done without removing the engine.

Cheers


1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

swiftnick

Thanks for that. I will be ordering seals.
I have done this on many motors using the tools shown in the pic below. Once the cams and buckets are out the way a simple smack with the first tool bounces the valve spring just enough to release the keepers which get sucked out by a magnet. For reassembly the keepers are loaded into the second tool which I then press onto the spring to compress it and the keepers click into place. Air pressure via the spark plug port holds the valves closed. I can take some pics when I do the work and post them here if there is interest.


swiftnick


JMR

Quote from: swiftnick on November 07, 2022, 02:16:27 PM
My FJ gives a nice little cloud of smoke from both mufflers when I start her after sitting for a few days. It stops smoking once the motor warms up and doesn't smoke again until the next time it sits a while before a start. Classic valve guide oil seal weep to my mind. I've replaced these before in other similar design DOHC motors (Honda CB900 and 1100F) by simply removing the cams and buckets then popping the keepers etc. Looks like this motor is easier as there are no frame tubes to get in the way over the motor. Has anyone done this? Any tips or peculiarities to be aware of? Also looking for a good source of seals, Viton preferred.
Just to let you know the FJ cylinder head is a copy of those DOHC Honda heads.

swiftnick

Quote from: JMR on November 07, 2022, 05:17:08 PM
Just to let you know the FJ cylinder head is a copy of those DOHC Honda heads.

Uses the same shims by any chance? When I checked the clearances, they were all in spec so I didn't need to swap out any shims. However just casual observation suggested they looked very similar to the large collection of Honda shims I have on hand.

Pat Conlon

We know these Honda shims work in the FJ:
CB750, CB750C, CB750F, CB750K, CB750SC dohc (79-83)
CB900C, CB900F, CB1000C, CB1100F, CBX (all)

Thanks for the info. on the tools, I suspect they will work fine on the intake valves, but do you have enough room over the exhaust to get the tool in there and smack it with a hammer?
Regardless, yes, we would very much appreciate a report on your project. Bonus points for pictures.

Thanks again....do we call you Nick?

Pat
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Motofun

I have both FJ and CBX shims in my shim kit.  They are interchangeable except the range of usable shims for the CBX is consistently thicker than the FJ.  Not by much but enough than I never had a reason to "cross pollinate".
'75 Honda CB400F
'85 Yamaha RZ350
'85 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'09 Yamaha 125 Zuma
'09 Kawasaki KZ110 (grand kids)
'13 Suzuki GSXR 750 (track)
'14 Yamaha FZ-09
'23 Yamaha Tenere 7
SOLD: CBX,RZ500,Ninja 650,CB400F,V45 Sabre,CB700SC,R1,GSXR1000R

swiftnick

Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 07, 2022, 07:32:34 PM
We know these Honda shims work in the FJ:
CB750, CB750C, CB750F, CB750K, CB750SC dohc (79-83)
CB900C, CB900F, CB1000C, CB1100F, CBX (all)

Thanks for the info. on the tools, I suspect they will work fine on the intake valves, but do you have enough room over the exhaust to get the tool in there and smack it with a hammer?
Regardless, yes, we would very much appreciate a report on your project. Bonus points for pictures.

Thanks again....do we call you Nick?

Pat

Hey Pat,

Great news on the CB shims being the same. When I do the oil seals I will revisit the clearances and maybe tweak them a little to be 'perfect'. It's the anal engineer in me that likes things just so.

The tools will fit in very confined places, like a CB with frame tubes in the way. The black working end is a slip fit into the aluminium handle so can be placed just by itself then tapped from slightly off angle using a long thin drift (socket extension) or just pressed with a lever from the side. I have a write up somewhere for doing a CB and will see if I can find that. And yes, happy to make a new version for the FJ when I get to it.

Nick

PS I can add a further CB to the list of bikes the shims fit. That would be the CB1100R a D version of which I am lucky enough to have tucked away in my garage.

FJ1200W

Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 07, 2022, 07:32:34 PM
We know these Honda shims work in the FJ:
CB750, CB750C, CB750F, CB750K, CB750SC dohc (79-83)
CB900C, CB900F, CB1000C, CB1100F, CBX (all)
Pat

Good info, thx

Certain Triumphs as well, here are some duplicates but a quick cut and paste of 25mm shim fitment.

1979 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750F 750 Super Sport
1979 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750K 750 Four
1979 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750K-LTD
1979 Honda CBX CBX
1980 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750C 750 Custom
1980 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750F 750 Super Sport
1980 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750K 750 Four
1980 Honda CB900 CB900C 900 Custom
1980 Honda CBX CBX
1981 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750C 750 Custom
1981 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750F 750 Super Sport
1981 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750K 750 Four
1981 Honda CB900 CB900C 900 Custom
1981 Honda CB900 CB900F 900 Super Sport
1981 Honda CBX CBX
1982 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750C 750 Custom
1982 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750F 750 Super Sport
1982 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750K 750 Four
1982 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750SC Nighthawk 750
1982 Honda CB900 CB900C 900 Custom
1982 Honda CB900 CB900F 900 Super Sport
1982 Honda CBX CBX
1983 Honda CB1000 CB1000C Custom
1983 Honda CB1100 CB1100F
1983 Honda CB750 DOHC CB750SC Nighthawk 750
2001 Triumph Classics Bonneville & T100
2001 Triumph Cruiser America
2002 Triumph Classics Bonneville & T100
2002 Triumph Cruiser America
2003 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2003 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2003 Triumph Cruiser America
2004 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2004 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2004 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2004 Triumph Cruiser America
2005 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2005 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2005 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2005 Triumph Cruiser America
2006 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2006 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2006 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2006 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2006 Triumph Cruiser America
2007 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2007 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2007 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2007 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2007 Triumph Cruiser America
2008 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2008 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2008 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2008 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2008 Triumph Cruiser America
2009 Triumph Classics Bonneville SE
2009 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2009 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2009 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2009 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2009 Triumph Cruiser America
2010 Triumph Classics Bonneville SE
2010 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2010 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2010 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2010 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2010 Triumph Cruiser America
2011 Triumph Classics Bonneville
2011 Triumph Classics Bonneville SE
2011 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2011 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2011 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2011 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2011 Triumph Cruiser America
2012 Triumph Classics Bonneville
2012 Triumph Classics Bonneville SE
2012 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2012 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2012 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2012 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2012 Triumph Cruiser America
2013 Triumph Classics Bonneville
2013 Triumph Classics Bonneville SE
2013 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2013 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2013 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2013 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2013 Triumph Cruiser America
2014 Triumph Classics Bonneville
2014 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2014 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2014 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2014 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2014 Triumph Cruiser America
2014 Triumph Cruiser America LT
2015 Triumph Classics Bonneville
2015 Triumph Classics Bonneville Newchurch
2015 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2015 Triumph Classics Scrambler
2015 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2015 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2015 Triumph Cruiser America
2015 Triumph Cruiser America LT
2016 Triumph Classics Bonneville T100
2016 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T120
2016 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T120 Black
2016 Triumph Classics Scrambler EFI
2016 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2016 Triumph Classics Thruxton
2016 Triumph Classics Thruxton R
2016 Triumph Cruiser America
2016 Triumph Cruiser America LT
2017 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T100
2017 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T120
2017 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T120 Black
2017 Triumph Classics Scrambler EFI
2017 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2018 Triumph Classics Bobber Black
2018 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T100
2018 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T120
2018 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Thruxton
2018 Triumph Classics Scrambler EFI
2018 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
2019 Triumph Classics Bobber Black
2019 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T100
2019 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Bonneville T120
2019 Triumph Classics Liquid Cooled Thruxton
2019 Triumph Classics Scrambler 1200 XC
2019 Triumph Classics Scrambler 1200 XE
2019 Triumph Classics Scrambler EFI
2019 Triumph Classics Speedmaster
1983 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200K
1984 Yamaha FJ1100 FJ1100L
1984 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200L
1985 Yamaha FJ1100 FJ1100N
1985 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200N
1985 Yamaha VMX1200 VMX1200N V-MAX
1986 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200S
1986 Yamaha VMX1200 VMX1200S V-MAX (Cal)
1987 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200T
1988 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200U
1989 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200W
1990 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200A
1991 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200B
1992 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200D
1993 Yamaha FJ1200 FJ1200E
Steve
Columbia, Missouri
USA

swiftnick

So, I replaced the valve guide seals today and figured I would share my experiences. The job generally went pretty well with a couple of notable exceptions. Firstly, I hadn't planned on removing the carbs, but it seems you have to do that to get access to the cam chain tensioner. A more notable problem however was that that my collet removal tool has failed after being left in the drawer for a few years since I last used it. There is supposed to be a strong magnet inside it that sucks the collets up when the tool is used to compress the valve spring. This magnet seems to have faded away over time and no longer does anything. So, as I know how it's supposed to work, I substituted my own version which was a socket with my stick magnet slipped up inside. It wasn't nearly as effective as the proper tool with the spring-loaded taper pin and often required repeated presses to shake the collets loose and stick em to the magnet, but it worked. With both the tool and my cobbled up alternate you can either strike the end or press on it. When pressing two hands are better to get enough force and I used a length of angle iron with a hole drilled in the centre to do this (but I was also successful using just a box wrench although its tougher to push on). The angle iron was very useful on the exhaust valves as there is no access to strike. After pulling out the shim buckets I slipped a piece of card down the bore to protect it from damage. I used an O ring pick to pull out the old seals, sometimes they come out in one piece, sometimes they broke up. Very important to hold a magnet as close over the seal as you can as there is a steel spring ring and an embedded washer that can come loose and need to be collected. I pressed the new seals on with an 8mm socket, soaked the seals in oil first. The collet tool worked perfectly for reassembling again with just using pressing force. You just simply place the top retaining disc on top of the springs with the collets already loaded, then put the tool on and press down. There is a click or thunk more felt than heard as the collets seat. I used an airline through the plug hole to hold the valves closed.    

swiftnick


swiftnick


RPM - Robert

Good job and nice write up with pics.

You have the shims in upside down, just an FYI, at least the 275s in the photos.

swiftnick

Thanks.
Yeah I put the shims in text side up as I went along to remind me which valves I had done. As an aside, I didn't think it mattered (mechanically) which way up they are other than the text will get rubbed off.