I want to make a hunchback seat

[Old Rider]

Using LED's? No new fuses...stock fuse on this circuit if fine
No LED's? Regular bulbs? No new fuses, however, you may need to increase the fuse size in your existing circuit.
How to tell? Add up the wattage on all the bulbs on this circuit. Divide by 12, that's your amps.
Use a fuse on this circuit that is 50% higher than the load amps.
e.g. If you have 10 amps in load, use a 15 amp fuse.

Thanks for your advice Pat  but as i was in a hurry i just added fuses only needed 2.The lights are LED by the way. More on that in my next post

[Old Rider]

I have now bought some new better quality lights. And now working on installing them ,but i need help on the wiring.The problem is do i need to install fuses ? the running lights and brake lights have separate wires and that means i will have to use 4 fuses ?? need quick ansver ! Oh yes i forgot to mention that im planning to splice directly into the wires to the brake and running lights

Old Rider,

The stock bike wiring is not made to handle very much current.  Add to that reality, those wires are what, 30+ years old now?  The best way to add accessories to any bike is with a relay-controlled fuse-block.  A relay is just an Off/On switch, controlled by a  low-drain trigger wire instead of a human finger.  The relay is switched by 12 Vdc, using very little current.  Power through the relay (the heavy switch contacts) will come straight from the battery, on a line fused very close to the battery.  This way, all extra drain comes through new wires.  If you want the extra lights to come on with the existing lights, the low-drain trigger wire to the relay can tap into one of the existing wires.  You ran also use a FUSE TAP to switch the relay, at any heavy-rated fuse in the panel, so the lights come on with the ignition key.  I realize my choices are not the quick and dirty choices, but if the existing wire harness in the bike melts and burns up, the bike will probably be toast (no cheap fix). 

Auto parts stores will have Fuse Taps, relays, relay sockets (wired), and respectable new wires.  Any common relay and Fuse-Block will do, but you can get motorcycle fuse-blocks from EasternBeaver, and others.  Not recommending sellers or specific items here, but for illustration only:

Fuse blocks:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only

Fuse Taps (buy to match the fuses now used in the bike):
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/fsa-tp/blade-fuse-tap/1.html

Thanks Red  lots of god information in your post  .I ended up doing it just with fuses 

[Old Rider]

Well since i was in a hurry and found out i needed only 2 fuses not 4 i had some laying around and used them.

[red]

Well since i was in a hurry and found out i needed only 2 fuses not 4 i had some laying around and used them.

Old Rider,

Was the bike running when you checked the brake lights?  If not, you may have a weak battery or dirty battery terminals.  Just a thought.

[Old Rider]

Well since i was in a hurry and found out i needed only 2 fuses not 4 i had some laying around and used them.

Old Rider,

Was the bike running when you checked the brake lights?  If not, you may have a weak battery or dirty battery terminals.  Just a thought.

I checked the lights both with engine off and running.The battery is 12,9volt so it is in good condition.A strange thing is when testing the lights at home before installing them they
was very bright and blinded me ,but on the bike they are much weaker.I think maybe the 3 connections into the wire harness on the bike has a bad coonection or that i have used too
small fuses not letting enough current reaching the lights.I will have to investigate more.I have not testet how much amp the lights draw i will do that today and also test with bigger fuses ,but since thet are LED i did not think they needed fuses bigger than 0,5A that i used.I will test some bigger fuses today

[Old Rider]

Maybe boring stuff but may also be interesting if someone is installing extra brake/running lights. Next morning i found the engine not turning over and tha voltmeeter reads 10V.
Never had any problems with the battery before so had to be something with my new installed brake run lights. I had to use my legs and run the bike to start it.Then took a quick
ride and found the voltmeeter was reading a charging power at only 13-13.5 volt.Then turned home an installed my spare battery that is fully charged.Then ride again but still charge vas low so had to investigate some more.I first suspected that the drain overnight was because i always wrap the safety wire from my diskbrakelock around the handlebar and brakelever
so it is pressing a little on the lever.I do that because then the brakelever is always firm and all air is out of system for next ride. But i wanted to check the electrical connections so
i took a closer look...

[red]

Old Rider,

Most fuses do not block voltage or current, so I'd be surprised if new fuses did anything good.  Those wire taps are bad news - they cut into the copper wiring, and they have very tiny contact areas.  Remember, they are lame even when new.  Add some age and/or corrosion, and I'd expect problems from them.  I would still recommend Fuse Taps, and if you need a FuseBlock, with or without relay switching, those items it would still be good ideas IMHO.
Check if the brake light comes ON with the key OFF, when the hand brake lever is pulled.  If so, that plus your disk lock cable probably caused your battery to be discharged.  Also check that your battery terminals and wire ends are bright shiny clean.  Replace the battery bolts if corroded - auto parts shops (as well as bike shops) will have new battery bolts.
HTH.

[fj1289]

Wire taps don't get called "vampires" for nothing!

[Old Rider]

Done some improvemente on the lousy vampire connections .I imagine the lights got brighter ,but the old wiring on bike is a little blackish on the copper inside plus they are thin.
Also made the seat a little shorter and shaved off some foam on the back to make it more level

[FJmonkey]

In my opinion, the tire is full of cuts (grooves and sipes) , as long as the new cut is not as deep. A bulge or bubble suggests the layers are delaminating. They are not likely to heal, only get worse.

[RPM - Robert]

Cut, bulging, or delaminating, it doesn't matter. Is a few hundred bucks worth an accident, injury, or maybe your life? 100% new tire.

[FJmonkey]

Hard to say from the photo but maybe the tire split at a mold line.

[Waiex191]

I'm among the cheapest man out there and I'd replace that tyre.

[red]

Old Rider,

Here is a Fuse Blade Tap.  The folded end is crimped smoothly onto the blade of the fuse you want to tap.  The top end joins to a standard (female) wire terminal end.  The top end can be bent flat across the top of the fuse, if space is limited inside the fuse box.  The Blade Fuse Tap (on the fuse blade) is inserted into the fuse socket contact that has NO power when the ignition key is ON or the whenever the original fuse would be conducting current, if the fuse were in place.  Otherwise, the wire from the Fuse Blade Tap would have NO fuse protection.




If any tire is cut and bulging, please replace that tire; no debate.
========================================
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[Old Rider]

Waiex Monkey and Robert you are all right i think .So I  ordered a new tire 5 minutes ago .It may have been a delamination maby after the cut or something also notised some vibration  like front tire out of balance the last days that increased with speed.

Red: about the fusetaps i have not seen the one you posted before.I found the one i post i this picture and with that i dont think it is possible to get the fuseboxlid back on because of the hight