I want to make a hunchback seat

[Old Rider]

Work is going a little slow on the seat project .I have been riding ambulance to hospital twice in the last week  so not in the best shape =) but im almost finished with the seat and that is the important thing !!

[melloncollie]

Old Rider, some jet skis and snowmobiles have seat storage.  It may give you some ideas for how to make the lid and how to access the storage by looking at their design examples.  Are you planning on making it waterproof?

[Old Rider]

Old Rider, some jet skis and snowmobiles have seat storage.  It may give you some ideas for how to make the lid and how to access the storage by looking at their design examples.  Are you planning on making it waterproof?

Hi yes i know when i was 16 i had a suzuki zr50sl soft chopper=) it had a nice hard plastic seatstorage.I also remeber that a woman about 80yrs old made a turn on a red arrow so i hit her car
head on both car and bike was sent to the car junkyard. No im not going to make it waterproof it is a little waterproof now 

[Old Rider]

The hunchback seat saga continues

[red]

Work is going a little slow on the seat project .I have been riding ambulance to hospital twice in the last week  so not in the best shape =) but im almost finished with the seat and that is the important thing !!

Old Rider,

What was the medical problem?  Hope all goes well there.

[Old Rider]

Thanks Red    The health issue is a combo og backpain and lungs.Infact after i wrote my last post i had to take another trip with
the abulance =) and i got sendt home again!!! I done some more on the seat when not at hospital =)

[red]

Old Rider,
The seat looks really good.   
If you want logo embroidery, then a hat store, sports-fan shop, or fabric shop may know where you can have that done by a computer. 
Take a good image to them on a flash drive.  A .PDF file might be the right image format, for most places.

[Old Rider]

Old Rider,
The seat looks really good.   
If you want logo embroidery, then a hat store, sports-fan shop, or fabric shop may know where you can have that done by a computer. 
Take a good image to them on a flash drive.  A .PDF file might be the right image format, for most places.

Thanks again Red ! and thanks for the tip going to some store that can do some embroidery i have not thinked about that possibiliy.The pillow in the seat can easy be remowed so i can do that later.
This time i have not been riding ambulace ,but i should not joke about it because im not well at all those .... at hospital told me to go home without being fully examined
anyway  Now the seat is finished only need to order some new brakelights that dont melt haha.Today i did a testride and the seat feels nice
to sit on.The plan when starting this project was to  lower the seat a little,but when using the thick foam i did
i should maybe have cut off more of the original seat foam first.I feel im sitting a little lower maybe because the foam i added in the pleats it wery soft.I was surpriced that the bike got faster with this seat it must have added about 30bhp  =).
Here is a link to a video of me talking about the seat in bad english =)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6a-Wr5kz3rM

[ajacstern]

Looks great, Old Rider, I have been considering giving my seat a little more of a bump as well, a little too flat for me after I redid the foam.

Is that the original paint job or did you respray it? Looks almost brand new either way.

[Old Rider]

Looks great, Old Rider, I have been considering giving my seat a little more of a bump as well, a little too flat for me after I redid the foam.

Is that the original paint job or did you respray it? Looks almost brand new either way.

Hi ajacstern If you mean the bodywork i have resprayed everything a few years ago using  spraycans .The color i used is called camaro inferno orange and the white is starfire white pearl both mixed at at a automotive paintshop Then used spraymax 2k clearcoat and then wetsanded and polished.I recomend the spraymax 2K clear it is very tough and resist most chemicals gasoline included.One drawback with the 2k spraymax is
that it is very dangerous to work with you must have good filters in mask eye and skin protection.You dont want this stuff hardening inside lungs =)I used it outside on days with no winds =) after painting parts i put them under a cardboard box to keep flies away.If a fly lands in the clear it is not a problem as it can be sanded and buffed

[ajacstern]

Ah well that is a very impressive job for spray cans, think I will give that way a whirl since I do not fancy buying a new air compressor right now. Did you get the stickers online or are they custom as well?

[Old Rider]

Ah well that is a very impressive job for spray cans, think I will give that way a whirl since I do not fancy buying a new air compressor right now. Did you get the stickers online or are they custom as well?

You should have some experience  painting with spraycans and the best is working inside.(exept if you using the spraymax 2k clearcote then you will have to use very good ventilation and use
proper respiratory filters and stuff). I have been using spraycans since i was 12 and paited my moped and bicycles The basecoats are easy to spray and the spraymax clearcote is also easy to spray.
One tip i have is to spray the thing you are working on in a horisontal angle i mean to hang it up or do it so you dont spray on it from a upper angle because then it can drip and sputter from the can .Another tip is to make sure to follow the flash off time for the paint before putting on new layers and dont sand the basecoat using metallik paint.On some parts i got bad orangepeel in the clear ,but that was very easy to wetsand
down with a flat rubber piece wrapped in wetsandpaper.Then use a rotary buffer and polish up with meguiars 105 and 205 or lay a new layer of clear.About the decals : The stripe on the upper front cowling is the only thing
i did not paint rest of the stripes is painted on not decals.The other decals i bought from here :https://www.honda-decals.com/default.tpl?cart=165509553253028716&id1=145&id2=200&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=200&--SECTIONSword=ww1.
They can be clearcoated if you want that.I did that on the red/black FJ1200 decal on the sidepanels but later i bought some light blue decals that i just have put on top of the red/black decals.
The decals i put on top that is not clearcoted (they are from the same webstore) is very good quality and have no signs of chipping or bad glue .One thing about the pearl white color is that it is a
3 stage paint that means it is 3 different layers first one white ground then a whte layer and then pearl layer that is transparent and then the clear i think its the same with the yamaha silky white if i remeber it right

[Old Rider]

I have now bought some new better quality lights. And now working on installing them ,but i need help on the wiring.The problem is do i need to install fuses ? the running lights and brake lights have separate wires and that means i will have to use 4 fuses ?? need quick ansver !

Oh yes i forgot to mention that im planning to splice directly into the wires to the brake and running lights

[Pat Conlon]

Using LED's? No new fuses...stock fuse on this circuit if fine
No LED's? Regular bulbs? No new fuses, however, you may need to increase the fuse size in your existing circuit.
How to tell? Add up the wattage on all the bulbs on this circuit. Divide by 12, that's your amps.
Use a fuse on this circuit that is 50% higher than the load amps.
e.g. If you have 10 amps in load, use a 15 amp fuse.

[red]

I have now bought some new better quality lights. And now working on installing them ,but i need help on the wiring.The problem is do i need to install fuses ? the running lights and brake lights have separate wires and that means i will have to use 4 fuses ?? need quick ansver ! Oh yes i forgot to mention that im planning to splice directly into the wires to the brake and running lights

Old Rider,

The stock bike wiring is not made to handle very much current.  Add to that reality, those wires are what, 30+ years old now?  The best way to add accessories to any bike is with a relay-controlled fuse-block.  A relay is just an Off/On switch, controlled by a  low-drain trigger wire instead of a human finger.  The relay is switched by 12 Vdc, using very little current.  Power through the relay (the heavy switch contacts) will come straight from the battery, on a line fused very close to the battery.  This way, all extra drain comes through new wires.  If you want the extra lights to come on with the existing lights, the low-drain trigger wire to the relay can tap into one of the existing wires.  You ran also use a FUSE TAP to switch the relay, at any heavy-rated fuse in the panel, so the lights come on with the ignition key.  I realize my choices are not the quick and dirty choices, but if the existing wire harness in the bike melts and burns up, the bike will probably be toast (no cheap fix). 

Auto parts stores will have Fuse Taps, relays, relay sockets (wired), and respectable new wires.  Any common relay and Fuse-Block will do, but you can get motorcycle fuse-blocks from EasternBeaver, and others.  Not recommending sellers or specific items here, but for illustration only:

Fuse blocks:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#pc8only

Fuse Taps (buy to match the fuses now used in the bike):
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/fsa-tp/blade-fuse-tap/1.html