Newbie wanting to know the must-do mods to my new FJ

[Flynt]

....you're probably going to want the doubled up clutch spring if you get it making full power, otherwise it will slip at about 6K and WOT.

Frank

Frank, the guy below doesn't agree.

... who (correctly in my opinion) believes the FJ clutch was designed to handle full power from the stock engine...  I don't have proof otherwise and I believe the engineers at Yamaha did their job designing a great product.  Still, a slipping stock clutch appears to be a pretty common outcome of tuning the FJ beyond stock power levels.

I have experienced 2 FJ's (my '90 and Wiz before the 1350) slipping after adding pods, timing advance, and jetting to get max power (both already had 4-1 pipes).  I added the second spring and they were fixed.

Filled in the part you deleted...  In my personal experience my 8.000 mile '90 slipped at 6K after carb clean and pod air filters, stuff that might happen to this bike pretty quickly as he gets it sorted.  RPM had done so many double springs they immediately solved the issue.  I was just trying to provide some potentially very valuable advice if he finds his clutch is slipping as he gets it running.  Not sure what you're trying to do...

Frank

[giantkiller]

My 89 has pods and supertrap. Slippons open end. Sounds very good. Was slipping. At wot. Second spring cured it also. All my other bikes have Barnett pressure plates. Standard springs. Turbo will have heavy springs and falicon clutch basket. Have acquired several Barnett plates for future projects.

But like Noel said may not be necessary unless you start really enjoying all the fj torque and develop a heavy hand.   like I have.

[Millietant]

Yeah, you're right Noel, there's huge confusion but I'm not really sure why given that it's actually pretty simple

Maybe it is the global referencing  I only really know the Thundercat as the YZF 600 R, but if you read a lot about the bike, the Thundercat is often referred to as "a development of the FZR 600" and it's reported that they share many parts - unfortunately, the back wheel isn't one of them (neither is the front end).

[Bones]

Not sure of the year, but the FZR 1000 rear wheel is another choice but like the YZF 600 wheel needs machining to fit. It's also wider than the YZF at 5.5 inches. Still reckon the GSXR wheel is the easiest, no machining at all just add two 4mm washers and mount the torque arm.

[ribbert]

Not sure of the year, but the FZR 1000 rear wheel is another choice but like the YZF 600 wheel needs machining to fit. It's also wider than the YZF at 5.5 inches. Still reckon the GSXR wheel is the easiest, no machining at all just add two 4mm washers and mount the torque arm.

You're right Tony, I guarantee no one in the history of FJ's has ever walked up to one with a GSXR wheel and said "hey, hang on, that wheel's not genuine!" Truly not a soul would ever notice and your recommendation is spot on. I have the FZR600R/RR wheel because it came already mounted in the swingarm. If I was doing the conversion from scratch I would use the Suzuki wheel, it's so easy.

Noel

[ribbert]

Not sure what you're trying to do...

Frank

My apologies Frank, just trying to add a bit of levity by having you answer yourself, but I can see how that would be confusing.

I am familiar with your low mileage, clutch slipping bike, I remember it well but I'm surprised you would a make a sweeping generalization from that single example. As an engineer you should know what a faulty generalization fallacy is. The 8800mls your bike came with is more than enough to kill a clutch from misuse. Part of the diagnostic process for abnormal events is to establish how long the vehicle has been in the possession of the current owner, often it turns out it's relatively new to them. Unfamiliarity can play all sorts of tricks on the senses.

Frank, good on you for spruiking your buddy's business, but it's not the only way, getting an FJ to run at it's best is not some sort of black art and not everyone has deep pockets or lives nearby. I'm sure RPM do excellent work they're not the only choice.

I have a 1219 engine with 100 grams taken off the reciprocating parts, adjustable cams, valve shims milled for optimal, uniform clearances, ignition advance, pods, exhausts, anodised oil cooler fittings,18/41 gearing, low friction chain and perfectly set up carbies. As you know, the higher the gear, the higher the revs and the wider the throttle, the greater the load on the clutch. I can apply the "reserve grip function test" at say 8000rpm in 4th at WOT and there's a ton of reserve grip there. I check it periodically to keep an eye on clutch wear.

However, there is one thing that hasn't been addressed, if I changed to synthetic oil it would slip immediately. I know this because I did it accidentally and couldn't figure out why my clutch started slipping out of nowhere under the above described conditions. Changing the oil and cleaning the plates just wasn't quite enough so a new set of fibres (and mineral oil) and it's as good as new, that was probably 100k ago. Like you, there is rarely an outing where at some point it doesn't get rung out through the gears at WOT.

[giantkiller]

Good point Noel I do run synthetic oil in everything.(except during break in of course). But double spring or Barnett style plate cured that. I don't even notice the lever pull.

[BackInDaSaddle]

I want to thank everyone for their input. Since I last posted, I have -

*Removed the ABS, replaced all brake lines with braided, replaced the worn rear rotor, and replaced all brake pads with EBC HH.
*RPM rear shock
*Rebuilt the fork, replaced the springs, added an RPM damper, and fork brace.
*Repaired all stress cracks in the plastics. I simply used ABS plumbers solvent and it worked well.
*Added a GIVI mount for my trunk so I can simply switch it back and forth from my Super Tenere.
*New Pirelli Sport Demons
*RPM bar risers
*Lithium battery
*Everything greased and lubed

Left to do -

*Rebuild carbs
*Adjust valves
*Advance timing
*Seek out and destroy annoying plastic buzzes and rattles
*New rear wheel @ next tire change

I took my first spirited ride yesterday on one of my favorite Central Coast twisties, and it turns out this old man still has some knee draggin' left in him! Heck, I may even have a Buttonwillow track day left in me!

Thanks to all for the great input, and to RPM for the outstanding customer service.

[gdfj12]

So, in other words, you've embraced the moditis, joined Modifiers Anonymous with a lifetime membership (like several of us here), and are well on your way to learning to live with it, eh?

George D in SE Mi (for now)
'89FJ12

[BackInDaSaddle]

 

[fj1289]

Woohoo!  Another FJ sharpened up and ready to give the younger bikes hell for decades to come!

[Pat Conlon]

Outstanding!

[Flynt]

... and replaced all brake pads with EBC HH.

Good stuff with all the work to date...  you've gotta be loving the changes.  One fine point for consideration...  the HH pads are excellent for the front, but if you use the rear brake much you might find them very hard to modulate on the rear, in my opinion at least.  I use the rear brake quite a bit, especially if I'm riding in a spirited fashion, and found that it was too easy to lock the rear when trail braking...  a little bumpiness, ramping up front brake pressure too quickly, etc. and I'd momentarily lock the rear on occasion.  Actually it only happened a couple times before I went to the organic rear pads and problem solved!  They are much more forgiving IMHO... 

As you ramp up your riding again, you might find the rear would be happier with organic pads...  or maybe not.  Lots of people use HH on the rear and don't complain.

Frank

[BackInDaSaddle]

Thanks for the input on the HH's. Have read that as well. At this point, I simply have a lot of freeplay adjusted into the rear brake but will heed your advice if it's an issue. I still use a lot of rear brake on my dirtbikes, but it'll be a while before I get the cajones to get back into that world on the street.

[Millietant]

Not sure of the year, but the FZR 1000 rear wheel is another choice but like the YZF 600 wheel needs machining to fit. It's also wider than the YZF at 5.5 inches. Still reckon the GSXR wheel is the easiest, no machining at all just add two 4mm washers and mount the torque arm.

The YZF 600 wheel itself doesn't need any machining. The caliper mount needs 8mm taking off it at the pivot area, but that can be done by hand if done carefully, or machined if you have access to a mill.

I chose the YZF because I didn't want the expense of buying an extra caliper, torque arm, brake hoses (my existing FJ braided stainless line fitted) and getting a proper torque arm mounting sorted (I'm not a fan of using the cantilevered forest hanger bolt).