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Adding fans to oilcooler plus installing oil temp meter

Started by Old Rider, December 27, 2021, 04:38:43 AM

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T Legg

Your control schematic looks fine but the LED lights of the switch have to be hooked up with the correct polarity. If the + and - symbols of the switch on your drawing are correct then you have the positive wire connected to the negative terminal of the led .
T Legg

red

Quote from: Old Rider on April 25, 2022, 01:14:10 PMSo this is the wirediagram how i wired the fasIt works almost the problem is that when in automode the fans starts at about 85 degree but shuts off after only a few seconds,Then they continue to that.It is supposed to work so the fans start at 85 degree and then shut off when temp is 80 degree.the 3 way switch is also not working right as only one LED lights up.If someone know what is wrong tell me
Old Rider,

I can't see a problem, from your wiring diagram.  I suspect the thermal switch is not working correctly, to be having the fans cycle on and off that fast.  I would email the maker, and see what they can say.

In terms of physical fixes, things may get better if you block the airflow from the fan on the inlet side, across the radiator tube that runs closest to the thermal switch.  Right now, the fan on the inlet side is cooling that tube too rapidly.  Only one radiator tube, on the inlet side, needs to have the fan airflow blocked.

I don't know how much room you have there, but if you make a heavy brass "adapter" to fit the radiator hole and the thermal switch, then the adapter will need longer to heat up, and will cool down more slowly than the "no adapter" setup that you have.  The adapter will need thermal conductive cream at each end, apparently.  This heavy adapter will be acting as a heat reservoir, keeping the fans ON longer.  I would still block the fan airflow on the inlet side, for only the one tube closest to the thermal switch.  Then the fan will put more air through the other unblocked tubes.  HTH.
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Old Rider

Quote from: T Legg on April 25, 2022, 02:57:09 PM
Your control schematic looks fine but the LED lights of the switch have to be hooked up with the correct polarity. If the + and - symbols of the switch on your drawing are correct then you have the positive wire connected to the negative terminal of the led .


Aha  :good: i remember now that LED atleast some of them only works when power runs in the right direction  i experienced that last year when testing 
to install LED bulbs in instrumentcluster last year.I will do some checks 

Old Rider

Quote from: red on April 25, 2022, 04:10:48 PM
Quote from: Old Rider on April 25, 2022, 01:14:10 PMSo this is the wirediagram how i wired the fasIt works almost the problem is that when in automode the fans starts at about 85 degree but shuts off after only a few seconds,Then they continue to that.It is supposed to work so the fans start at 85 degree and then shut off when temp is 80 degree.the 3 way switch is also not working right as only one LED lights up.If someone know what is wrong tell me
Old Rider,

I can't see a problem, from your wiring diagram.  I suspect the thermal switch is not working correctly, to be having the fans cycle on and off that fast.  I would email the maker, and see what they can say.

In terms of physical fixes, things may get better if you block the airflow from the fan on the inlet side, across the radiator tube that runs closest to the thermal switch.  Right now, the fan on the inlet side is cooling that tube too rapidly.  Only one radiator tube, on the inlet side, needs to have the fan airflow blocked.

I don't know how much room you have there, but if you make a heavy brass "adapter" to fit the radiator hole and the thermal switch, then the adapter will need longer to heat up, and will cool down more slowly than the "no adapter" setup that you have.  The adapter will need thermal conductive cream at each end, apparently.  This heavy adapter will be acting as a heat reservoir, keeping the fans ON longer.  I would still block the fan airflow on the inlet side, for only the one tube closest to the thermal switch.  Then the fan will put more air through the other unblocked tubes.  HTH.



hi red when you mention it  i think you are absolute right that the top channel where the thermal switch is mounted gets
cooled to fast so the switch react by shutting fans off good call !.I will try your idea to fit a adapter under the switch ,but there is very little
space up to frame so im not sure if possible.Also the treads for the switch is short.I will try to just use a copper coin in there first.
On first testride there was no thermal paste under the switch and when standing still idling i let the temp rise to 98 degree celsius on the
tempmeter and the switch did not turn on the fans. The engine was very hot so i turned it off.After that i added thermal paste under the switch
and then it started the fans at 82 degree but shuts off again to fast
Blocking the airflow on the top channel at the oil inletside is also a good idea, but mayby a little too much work since i will then maybe have
to remove the fans again i will see

red

Quote from: Old Rider on April 26, 2022, 02:12:58 AMBlocking the airflow on the top channel at the oil inletside is also a good idea, but mayby a little too much work since i will then maybe have to remove the fans again i will see
Old Rider,

I believe you can simply loosen the fan bolts, and sneak in a strip of aluminum sheet, cut from an aluminum drink can.  Heavy scissors can cut that thin aluminum.  The strip should have an L-shaped cross section, with the short leg of the L going between the radiator tube closest to the thermal switch, and the next radiator tube.  The long side of the L should completely cover the radiator tube, out to the edge of the fan shroud.   
This new L-channel would only need to be as long as the fan is wide.  It may be easier to insert the L-channel under the fan, starting from the center of the oil cooler and sliding  the L-channel outward to cover the width of the fan.  Normal tightening of the fan hardware should secure the new L-channel in place.  HTH.
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Old Rider

Quote from: red on April 26, 2022, 10:51:37 AM
Quote from: Old Rider on April 26, 2022, 02:12:58 AMBlocking the airflow on the top channel at the oil inletside is also a good idea, but mayby a little too much work since i will then maybe have to remove the fans again i will see
Old Rider,

I believe you can simply loosen the fan bolts, and sneak in a strip of aluminum sheet, cut from an aluminum drink can.  Heavy scissors can cut that thin aluminum.  The strip should have an L-shaped cross section, with the short leg of the L going between the radiator tube closest to the thermal switch, and the next radiator tube.  The long side of the L should completely cover the radiator tube, out to the edge of the fan shroud.   
This new L-channel would only need to be as long as the fan is wide.  It may be easier to insert the L-channel under the fan, starting from the center of the oil cooler and sliding  the L-channel outward to cover the width of the fan.  Normal tightening of the fan hardware should secure the new L-channel in place.  HTH.

Thanks for the tip ,The fans are mounted with ziptie going thru the cooler by the way. I will se what i find out
here is just a little funny update picture of what i found when doing a quick check of the cooler

Old Rider


Old Rider

Sorry about the youtube vid i messed it up i will make a better video later .Anyway Here is more of the fans on oilcooler experiment.I still cant get the LED lights in the 3way switch to work in this setup.
I  tried to connect the wires at the switch about a million different combinations jumping wires ets, but the LED will not work.
I tested to run the front and rear fans separate on the 3way switch like in one position the front fans run and in second pos the rear fans run
then both the LED lights in the switch work see pic 4a I found some cool switches on ebay so going to replace this switch.
I have not had time to test the fans cooling capability, but so far they dont cool very much around 3-5 degree celsius ,but
that is normal for a oilcooler with fans on i think.Like Firehawk068 posted eariler they make the temperature rise much slower when standing still at
red lights
.I notised that when  riding in steady speed and oiltemp is stable and turn the fans on the temperature sinks about 5-10 degree celsius it also
depends how long they are switched on. So far i have just run them a few minutes at the time.It is a little strange since engine is already
cooled from the natural airflow.
I have not had time yet,but will run a test by first get the engine up to operating temp ( that takes a looong time now in the cold weater here about 20min )
Then drive a route i know that is about 3km ending up at the start point first with fans off and then with fans turned on

fj1289

One idea with the one switch and two relays - one position on the switch runs the front fans (or rear if you prefer) and other position runs both sets of fans. 

Old Rider

Quote from: fj1289 on May 02, 2022, 04:28:19 PM
One idea with the one switch and two relays - one position on the switch runs the front fans (or rear if you prefer) and other position runs both sets of fans. 
Yes i discovered if i use 2 relays i can make it work ,but that will be alot of cables and i already have 2 relays for the headlight so im skipping relays.
After a lot of fiddeling with the thermoswitch to make it work without luck i have just decided to skip it and run the fans manualy .
Last night i did a test to see how much the fans will cool.First tok a 25 minute ride to bring the enginetemp up until it stopped rising.
Outside temperature was 11 degree celcius when doing the test. I drove a route that is 4km starting and ending at the same spot.
made 2 rounds one with fans off and after that one round with the fans switched on
The fans dropped the temp about 10 degree celsius on that trip.
When standing still i have not measured how the fans cools .I have noticed that when standing at redlight the temp rises,but slower than with
fans off i may do a test on that later
I found out that there is space enough in front of the cooler so i will buy 2 more of the powerful fans similar to the ones on back of cooler and replace them with the smaller fans that sits in the front of cooler .
I made an new video that should work now of how the fans sounds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDlQWHucDpM

Old Rider

I guess you are starting to get tired of hearing about the fans on oilcooler :smile: ,but here is another test i did on a hot day temperature was 27.5 degree celsius .Im planning to buy 2 more fans similar to the powerfull ones that sits on back of cooler and replace them with the fans in front,but have not yet done that.The performance is not jawdropping ,but can be
helpful with some cooling in heavy traffic =).