Engine has about 43K miles on it and is burning oil. Options?

[aviationfred]

Noel beat me to the statement. How many miles are ridden between the oil being at the upper line and then at the lower line??

In my opinion..... the mileage between the upper line and lower line is the determining factor. If that number is less than 1000 miles.... I would say rings and over size pistons may be needed.

I had this exact situation a few years ago. I did some research and figured out, that ordering a complete drop in Cylinder/Piston kit and doing the install myself was much cheaper than having a shop bore/re-sleeve the cylinders and purchasing oversized pistons.

Here is exactly what I am talking about. A drop in kit that requires ZERO machine work. Should cure all of your oil consumption issues. Once the rings are seated..... expect oil consumption to be in the neighborhood of 1 quart per 3000 miles.

https://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/cylinder-kit-yamaha-fj1100-block-1250cc-includes-wiseco-piston-kit-1tx-11310-00-00-ck1250/


Fred

[ribbert]

A drop in kit that requires ZERO machine work.
https://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/cylinder-kit-yamaha-fj1100-block-1250cc-includes-wiseco-piston-kit-1tx-11310-00-00-ck1250/

Fred

That's great value Fred, right down to the ring gaps set. Even allowing for the exchange rate, I know I couldn't get anywhere near that, it cost me way more than that 10 years ago. Presumably that's on an exchange basis with the block.

Noel

[aviationfred]

A drop in kit that requires ZERO machine work.
https://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/cylinder-kit-yamaha-fj1100-block-1250cc-includes-wiseco-piston-kit-1tx-11310-00-00-ck1250/

Fred

That's great value Fred, right down to the ring gaps set. Even allowing for the exchange rate, I know I couldn't get anywhere near that, it cost me way more than that 10 years ago. Presumably that's on an exchange basis with the block.

Noel

No core charge involved or exchange required. This is the company that I got my 1297cc kit from, 5 years ago. $1599.00usd.  

[JMR]

So my 86 FJ1200 is burning a little oil. I talked to my mechanic and he said that eventually the cylinders start wearing and they need to be bored out and the rings replaced etc. which he said could cost more than the bike. Thing is, I DONT WANT ANOTHER BIKE. lol I waited 35 years to get this one.
So aside from just ride it and keep filling it up with oil,(it goes through several tanks of gas before I even notice the level go down and I check it before and after every ride) what are my options?

Have you done a compression test? If not do one and go from there. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this unless I missed it.
BTW does the oil level light come on when oil is low. How many miles from topping up down to low level warning?
Are you sure it's only done 43K and not been around the clock once or twice? 43k would be just about run in by then.



I am monitoring that closely now waiting for it to get low again. I didnt really pay attention the first time.

Personally I'd do a leak down first, check the reading and listen to how much air is getting into the crankcase

[RPM - Robert]

I see no listings at RPM for new oversize pistons

We can get all the kits from 1197-1380 just like we built for you, Pat.

We also offer a drop in Yamaha 1250 kit with custom barrels so you do not have to fly cut the case on your 1100 or 1200. These will drop right in. Rings are gapped and ready to go.

These are Yamaha XJR 1300 pistons and rings. Not the skirted Wisecos' you were having oil consumption problems with.

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1250Bloc $1499.99 before a refundable $200 core charge.

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Robert, so you have the .020 over pistons to go with these rings?
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3A4PU-11605-01


....for those who just want .020 pistons and rings, without having to buy a new sleeved block.

[Old Rider]

Another option: if after measuring the bores and they are out of round and taper or have deep scratches is to buy cheap LA sleeves  and install them
your self .Then get them bored to fit your old pistons if they are in in spec.It is not difficult you can read about it in the splitting the cases tread.
I think i payed only 100 dollar for the sleeves and about 600 dollar to get the sleeves bored honed and milled the cylinder top surface.

[RPM - Robert]

Thanks Robert, so you have the .020 over pistons to go with these rings?
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3A4PU-11605-01


....for those who just want .020 pistons and rings, without having to buy a new sleeved block.

No, those are .020 Yamaha rings. The Yamaha pistons have been discontinued. We have the XJR pistons and rings in stock. The other kits besides the drop in linked would be Wiseco or Ross depending on cc.

The Wiseco 1219 is the biggest you can go on the 1200 block with out re-sleeving, if I remember correctly. The wall gets too thin on the stock sleeves. I think the 1219 kit is around $700, pistons, rings, gaskets. But you are still gonna pay the labor to bore and hone to there. The 1250 drop in kit is only a bit more after you tally in all the labor. Anddd I think $700 was the old price I think the prices have gone up. I don't have the prices in front of me but I think the piston/rings are $160+ a piece plus the gaskets.

[Pat Conlon]

Ok, thanks.

[Pat Conlon]

Another option: if after measuring the bores and they are out of round and taper or have deep scratches is to buy cheap LA sleeves  and install them
your self .Then get them bored to fit your old pistons if they are in in spec.It is not difficult you can read about it in the splitting the cases tread.
I think i payed only 100 dollar for the sleeves and about 600 dollar to get the sleeves bored honed and milled the cylinder top surface.

If a simple hone with new standard rings is not in the cards, then more $$ is needed to get the cylinder wall in spec.
With Robert's disappointing news, that Yamaha discontinued the + sized pistons, BUT seeing that standard oem sized rings are still available, Rolf's (Old Rider) option (^^)  pencil's out to be the most cost effective.

Keep your oem pistons, buy new Yamaha standard size rings, install new sleeves then bore and deck accordingly.

Buying a new (refurbished) sleeved cylinder block along with new aftermarket pistons, pins and rings, when all you need are just new rings and sleeves (reuse your existing pistons, pins, and cylinder block)...it just seems a bit excessive to me.

However, when the time comes that Yamaha stops making the oem standard size rings, then the sleeved block with new aftermarket pistons and rings would be in order.

[FJ1200W]

The FJ's oil level sensor in the crankcase can be fussy. We call the red oil light the kookaloo light. It tends to come on under heavy acceleration, hence, the kookaloo zone.

Unless my oil level is at the top line in the window, the oil light will blink. This blinking red light freaked me out at first until I realized what it was....oil level, not oil pressure.
Check it before each ride and you're golden. You're down there anyway checking your tire pressures.

Amen, that scared the heck out of me on my 1st long high speed ride. WOT, 5th gear, near redline, and the red oil light pops on, yes, it can be concerning!

[twangin4u]

Hi crank case pressure can also push some oil into your airbox and subsequently get sucked straight into carbs. 

[Mike Ramos]

Great discussion!

My original engine lost a valve at just over 100,000 miles.  Following Noel's favorite mechanics advice ( ), rather than only replace the valves & rings, the engine was rebuilt replacing the main bearings & stronger late model connecting rods.  It was bored one over with Yamaha rings.

This rebuild just turned over 100,000 miles returning from the ECFR.  It now has about 106,000 or so miles.

Oil consumption was zero until about 70,000 miles.  If not on a cross country sojourn, I change oil usually at 3,000 miles and add perhaps a quart in the interim.  The engine still runs strong and very smooth.
MPG is very good as well - jetting to match the exhaust & Uni-pods.

I tip my hat to the RPM crew!

Ride safe,

Midget

[ribbert]

....Following Noel's favorite mechanics advice....

Midget

I forwarded this to him Mike, he was surprised but none the less delighted, he sends his regards. He was curious however as to why you felt the need for stronger con rods on your build.

The tyre information was excellent, no one here goes through more tyres than you and I know you ride them hard and in all conditions and road surfaces so it was just what I was looking for. I will take all that into account in making my choice.

Thanks

Noel