Sticky throttle cable cure?

[pict]

My throttle won't snap back closed but instead slowly settles in the last 10 degrees of return. I thoroughly lubed the cables and junction box with PJ1 (pj1.com). Is there anything else I can try to get it real free and snappy? I have checked the cable routing is correct.

[red]

My throttle won't snap back closed but instead slowly settles in the last 10 degrees of return. I thoroughly lubed the cables and junction box with PJ1 (pj1.com). Is there anything else I can try to get it real free and snappy? I have checked the cable routing is correct.

pict,

Lubed is good, but clean counts for a lot.  If you do not have a cable lube tool, Amazon has lots of them to pick from.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/

Use a good solvent similar to brake cleaner, not something that gums up the works like WD-40.  Use the cable lube tool and the solvent with the tiny straw to wash away the old gunk inside the cable housing.  Blow the cable clean inside (compressed air needle and the cable lube tool again), let dry, and then apply your trick cable lube, using the cable lube tool.

If the clean cable does not operate freely (like new), then you may have busted strands in the cable core, rust, or a crushed housing.  A new cable is the only way to fix those issues.  If OEM cables are not available, most bike shops can duplicate any cable you bring to them, and the cost should be reasonable.  Shop around, if necessary.  HTH.

[RPM - Robert]

The throttle shaft seals could be completely dried up, stuff and holding the throttle plates open.

We have had this happen on several FJs here in the shop.

[pict]

The throttle shaft seals could be completely dried up, stuff and holding the throttle plates open.

We have had this happen on several FJs here in the shop.

When I had the carb bank off, it was totally snappy when I pinged the butterfly actuator. I suspect the problem has to be somewhere in the cable/twistgrip assembly.

[pict]

pict,

Lubed is good, but clean counts for a lot.  If you do not have a cable lube tool, Amazon has lots of them to pick from.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/

Use a good solvent similar to brake cleaner, not something that gums up the works like WD-40.  Use the cable lube tool and the solvent with the tiny straw to wash away the old gunk inside the cable housing.  Blow the cable clean inside (compressed air needle and the cable lube tool again), let dry, and then apply your trick cable lube, using the cable lube tool.

If the clean cable does not operate freely (like new), then you may have busted strands in the cable core, rust, or a crushed housing.  A new cable is the only way to fix those issues.  If OEM cables are not available, most bike shops can duplicate any cable you bring to them, and the cost should be reasonable.  Shop around, if necessary.  HTH.

That is a good point... it might be existing crud. I have a cable oiler that I used to inject PJ1, but didn't clean the cable internals first. I will try cleaning thoroughly with solvent and relubing.

[RPM - Robert]

Good, that is eliminated. Could be in the cables not being clean, not being adjusted properly, or it could be in the throttle grip. I have had a couple FJs in here here that have crud underneath the plastic of the throttle tube or the grip is dragging on the bar end because it wasn't Installed deep enough on the bar.

[ribbert]

My mechanic says that if the problem was not present before the carbies were removed, it's likely related to something you've changed. The most likely culprit in this event is not leaving enough slack in the cables, they need some.
Back the adjusting nut off a bit and see what happens, it will only take a minute and will either eliminate it as the cause or fix the problem.

Noel

[Old Rider]

My throttle grip sometimes get slow on the return its because the rubber stick to the barend weight ,but after a little lubing with siliconespray under the rubber it snaps back easy i also use to
spay a little siliconespray between the handlebar-controller switch housing and the rubbergrip.Wd-40 or oil does not work (at least not for long) it must be siliconespray.
I also use siliconespray to lube the cables makes them real slippery.

[fj1289]

My throttle grip sometimes get slow on the return its because the rubber stick to the barend weight ,but after a little lubing with siliconespray under the rubber it snaps back easy i also use to
spay a little siliconespray between the handlebar-controller switch housing and the rubbergrip.Wd-40 or oil does not work (at least not for long) it must be siliconespray.
I also use siliconespray to lube the cables makes them real slippery.

There is also supposed to be a plastic disc between the grip and the switch housing to keep the grip from"gripping" the side of the switch housing

[pict]

My throttle grip sometimes get slow on the return its because the rubber stick to the barend weight...

This seemed to be the easiest thing to check so removed the RHS bar end and pinged the twist-grip. It now made that satisfying clack when the throttle mechanism on the carbs bottomed out on the stop. Cleaned out the handlebar end with silcone spray and a rag. There were also some thin slivers of rubber still attached to the twist grip from the mould seam that I took off with a scalpel. Used a sparing application of some light lithium grease and put the bar end back on. Sorted. Many thanks.