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clutch sticking ?

Started by Hemi Bob, March 22, 2021, 10:36:40 AM

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Hemi Bob

Hi Guys i have a question . Its been almost 2 summers since i replaced my clutch. I only ride the bike about 5000km a season if that.
when i did the clutch I replaced all the steels and fibers with Yamaha parts. Out came the wire and the cushion springs< in went the wider fiber disc .
When the bike sits usually over night I have to rock the bike to free up the clutch I  replace the clutch slave with a new one from RPM when the clutch was replaced.
So before rocking the bike when its in gear with the clutch pulled in the bike wont roll . When i rock it back and forth you finally hear it let go and then its free to move.

My second worry is a rode over the weekend and part way through the ride I was  hearing a loud tick from the upper part of the engine cylinder head.
I cant remember the last time the valve we shims where checked. as i don't ride much.

I will have to take the valve cover off and start checking clearances to see if that's the noise problem
I only have 54,000 km and had the engine rebuilt back in 2010 after a valve seat caused a problem with a valve and the piston.

Bob
Robert
1985 FJ1100  Original Owner
1986 FJ1200  X Drag Bike
1981 Suzuki GS 1100ex
1981 Suzuki GS 750ex

FJmonkey

Is the ticking noise during idle or at higher RPMs?
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Hemi Bob

The ticking starts soon as the engine warms up and stays through the whole RPM

Bob
Robert
1985 FJ1100  Original Owner
1986 FJ1200  X Drag Bike
1981 Suzuki GS 1100ex
1981 Suzuki GS 750ex

red

Bob,

The clutch plates may stick together when the bike has sat still long enough.  Some engine oils are worse than others, on that issue.  What engine oil do you use?  Warming up the engine in Neutral should reduce that issue, but you might want to turn off the engine and roll the bike in gear, fore and aft, to free the sticky clutch, then re-start.  Worst case, you may decide to remove the clutch plates as a group and soak them in a pan of oil for a few hours, then re-install.  Unless you quick-shift often (or shift without the clutch), the clutch-soak job will not need a repeat for a year or more, if ever.

Best wishes on the head noise.  Let us know what you find there.
.
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Pat Conlon

Hey Bob, I see you have a '85....do you still have the Yamaha oem head pipes?
The Gen1 '84/85 head pipes were black chrome and dual walled, and what happens over time is the inner wall cracks on these oem head pipes, and a rattle begins. Unfortunately not repairable.
The later 86-95 head pipes were black painted single wall stainless steel....a plug and play substitute.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Hersey289

Hey Bob,
Zwartie had a loud clicking from his engine on a trip we were on in 2006.  It ended up that one of the exhaust flanges on one of the header tubes had loosened off slightly causing the concerning noise. Check that out.
Second, I have repaired a set of broken double wall '85 OEM header by drilling a small self tapping screw into the offending end. This eliminated the clanking of the internal header tube. Place the screw in an unobtrusive location and paint it black.
Hope this helps,
Rob
PS I've gone to the dark side and ride a 2007 Triumph ST 1050 ABS. Always loved my FJ's though.