right fork bottom leaking

[FJmonkey]

The proper alignment starts at the bottom of the forks. The screw/fastener with the pin must have the pin still in place. Some oil will leak out but you can remove the screw and see if the pin portion is still in place. If the pin has been bent or sheared off then time for a new one. With the forks apart, you will see the bottom of the fork internals have a slot. This slot allows the internals to sit with the forks rotated in the proper position over that pin. This is also why you need to hold the fork internals when you tighten the bolt at the bottom. Not holding the fork internals will likely bend or shear off the pin. Do you have a manual to help understand the assembly?

[mtc]

this one has a word document with lots of pics

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.0

this one has a word document with lots of pics, so it clearer to me

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1911.0

remove adjuster cap , preload tube, washer and spring

steady bike on  center stand and jack/ shift weight of bike to rear


i don't have to take it all apart, shove the "tool" which i have the 27mm bolt already to hold it, after draining out fluid.


take nut off, replace washer and hex bolt while assuring the rod rod is indexed via a screw or well fitting drift pin to

27 ft lbs

reverse process and

HOPE

it's not what you call a crack somewhere ( which is hard for me to think happened)

[mtc]

The proper alignment starts at the bottom of the forks. The screw/fastener with the pin must have the pin still in place. Some oil will leak out but you can remove the screw and see if the pin portion is still in place. If the pin has been bent or sheared off then time for a new one. With the forks apart, you will see the bottom of the fork internals have a slot. This slot allows the internals to sit with the forks rotated in the proper position over that pin. This is also why you need to hold the fork internals when you tighten the bolt at the bottom. Not holding the fork internals will likely bend or shear off the pin. Do you have a manual to help understand the assembly?

no manual

[Sparky84]

In order to replace the copper washer the fork must be disassemled as you have to hold the damper rod internally to loosen and tighten it. This 10mm (or 3/8") allen that you used is the bolt that is sealed by the copper washer.

any pictures, it's dark down there and far away to see anything

what is the tool to "hold" this damper is this it?
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder

how long of an extension to get it down there?
do i need a vise? or just the work bench?

why would the washer suddenly leak?if it's a crush washer, can't i just try to tighten it some more?

i don't want  sound like a stupid person,

This is how I was able to hold to undo and tighten, I stood on the unistrut and the unistrut held my T bar
Could also tie the T bar to something long and stand on it.
I can post pages of manual showing fork disassembly, if you need them

Fork was inverted of course.

[mtc]

In order to replace the copper washer the fork must be disassemled as you have to hold the damper rod internally to loosen and tighten it. This 10mm (or 3/8") allen that you used is the bolt that is sealed by the copper washer.

any pictures, it's dark down there and far away to see anything

what is the tool to "hold" this damper is this it?
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder

how long of an extension to get it down there?
do i need a vise? or just the work bench?

why would the washer suddenly leak?if it's a crush washer, can't i just try to tighten it some more?

i don't want  sound like a stupid person,

This is how I was able to hold to undo and tighten, I stood on the unistrut and the unistrut held my T bar
Could also tie the T bar to something long and stand on it.
I can post pages of manual showing fork disassembly, if you need them

Fork was inverted of course.

thank you very much

but i don't want to strip it down that far

just drain the oil and leave the forks on the bike, to just change the leaky washer, everything else on it is fine

if i don't have a helper i could, tie the rachet on top to the frame, just enough to crack the bolt on the bottom,

[RPM - Robert]

It will literally take you 5 extra minutes to remove and re install the entire fork leg and make it easier to work on, or at least it should only take you that long.

Advice given. I'll slip back to the campfire and enjoy the popcorn.

[mtc]

The proper alignment starts at the bottom of the forks. The screw/fastener with the pin must have the pin still in place. Some oil will leak out but you can remove the screw and see if the pin portion is still in place. If the pin has been bent or sheared off then time for a new one. With the forks apart, you will see the bottom of the fork internals have a slot. This slot allows the internals to sit with the forks rotated in the proper position over that pin. This is also why you need to hold the fork internals when you tighten the bolt at the bottom. Not holding the fork internals will likely bend or shear off the pin. Do you have a manual to help understand the assembly?

thanks Mark

[mtc]

It will literally take you 5 extra minutes to remove and re install the entire fork leg and make it easier to work on, or at least it should only take you that long.

Advice given. I'll slip back to the campfire and enjoy the popcorn.

trying to leave the brake caliper and on and not have to clock the fork afterwards

[mtc]

anything i can use here?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=copper+washer&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=copper+washer


m10?

[mtc]

well i mickey moused a 27mm bolt and was not torque to tight, i looked at the crush washer and it was warped but not crushed at all, i think flipping it the other way would seal it, gone put it back , do a short fill and see if it holds

also

looks like a bit of marring on the bottom of the damper, i think the irregularities and allowing the leak, some yahoo, bounced it on a rough hard surface


copper crush washer, if anyone want to know

20mm os dia.
14mm is dia.
1mm thick

and i have to get a smaller front fender, i took it off and the FJ looks like it lost some weight,( what  a sexy girl!) the old fender was nearly hanging on with all the tabs cracked, bye bye trust me on this one

[mtc]

well i mickey moused a 27mm bolt and was not torque to tight, i looked at the crush washer and it was warped but not crushed at all, i think flipping it the other way would seal it, gone put it back , do a short fill and see if it holds

also

looks like a bit of marring on the bottom of the damper, i think the irregularities and allowing the leak, some yahoo, bounced it on a rough hard surface


copper crush washer, if anyone want to know

20mm os dia.
14mm is dia.
1mm thick

and i have to get a smaller front fender, i took it off and the FJ looks like it lost some weight,( what  a sexy girl!) the old fender was nearly hanging on with all the tabs cracked, bye bye trust me on this one

my bad, it's the tube to washer surface that is boogered