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right fork bottom leaking

Started by mtc, April 26, 2020, 08:02:05 PM

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mtc

i noticed it today, i wiped it off, and it came back

it's above the front axle pinch bolt


is there a nut down there, what size?

can i tighten it to make it go away?

thank you
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

balky1

Not that easy, but there is a bolt.
First drain the oil, from both legs. Because you don't know how much is left in that leg and how much there is in another one from the PO. A good time to change it anyway.
You have to open the top of your forks and hold the damper rod from turning with a special tool. If you don't do that it will either spin or you will end up breaking damper rod locating bolt. You can make the tool yourself, check the files.
Now, when you remove the axle there is an Allen bolt as I remember. Maybe not Allen, might be a hex nut.... Under that bolt is an alluminum crush washer, I think the same size like on the oil drain plug. I would suggest putting a new one and I believe loctite goes on the threads. That should cure it if everything else is OK.


FJ 1100, 1985, sold
FJR 1300, 2009

mtc

Quote from: balky1 on April 27, 2020, 12:02:06 AM
Not that easy, but there is a bolt.
First drain the oil, from both legs. Because you don't know how much is left in that leg and how much there is in another one from the PO. A good time to change it anyway.
You have to open the top of your forks and hold the damper rod from turning with a special tool. If you don't do that it will either spin or you will end up breaking damper rod locating bolt. You can make the tool yourself, check the files.
Now, when you remove the axle there is an Allen bolt as I remember. Maybe not Allen, might be a hex nut.... Under that bolt is an alluminum crush washer, I think the same size like on the oil drain plug. I would suggest putting a new one and I believe loctite goes on the threads. That should cure it if everything else is OK.

just did the fluid after i found the leak and changed back to stock springs today, so you are saying i can't just remove the axle and snug the allen bolt a little?

thank you for the help!
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

balky1

Not recommended. You should hold the damper rod from inside to prevent it from turning.


FJ 1100, 1985, sold
FJR 1300, 2009

mtc

well the right i was able to move, and left no, and i felt no damper slipping,

i had a 3/8 inch allen wrench that worked, thanks very much, hope it holds
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

Sparky84

Probably copper washer needs replacing,
they only work once
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

balky1

Well, of course it didn't turn because the damper rod locating screw was holding it. It is a really small screw that you probably screwed up now.  :biggrin:
If you plan to work on the bike, you need metric tools. Allen screws get striped easily with inadequate tools. Let alone Phillips.


FJ 1100, 1985, sold
FJR 1300, 2009

mtc

Quote from: balky1 on April 28, 2020, 04:52:25 AM
Well, of course it didn't turn because the damper rod locating screw was holding it. It is a really small screw that you probably screwed up now.  :biggrin:
If you plan to work on the bike, you need metric tools. Allen screws get striped easily with inadequate tools. Let alone Phillips.

well didn't know much about that part, that is why i am asking here.....where is the set screw, is it the little screw behind the drain screw, but a little higher?, I simply didn't know

if i take that out will forks leak?



the 3/8 felt real tight, i used what i had, i have plenty of metric tools just not that one, it was a perfect fit

it's still leaking now what? thank you again
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

mtc

Quote from: Sparky84 on April 28, 2020, 01:32:51 AM
Probably copper washer needs replacing,
they only work once

can it be tightened without major disassembly?
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

RPM - Robert

In order to replace the copper washer the fork must be disassemled as you have to hold the damper rod internally to loosen and tighten it. This 10mm (or 3/8") allen that you used is the bolt that is sealed by the copper washer.

balky1

Quote from: mtc on April 28, 2020, 01:31:06 PM
Quote from: balky1 on April 28, 2020, 04:52:25 AM
Well, of course it didn't turn because the damper rod locating screw was holding it. It is a really small screw that you probably screwed up now.  :biggrin:
If you plan to work on the bike, you need metric tools. Allen screws get striped easily with inadequate tools. Let alone Phillips.

well didn't know much about that part, that is why i am asking here.....where is the set screw, is it the little screw behind the drain screw, but a little higher?, I simply didn't know

if i take that out will forks leak?



the 3/8 felt real tight, i used what i had, i have plenty of metric tools just not that one, it was a perfect fit

it's still leaking now what? thank you again


Yes and yes. The thing you are doing here is the same like you are trying to tighten the engine oil drain plug some more to prevent leaking. I suppose you wouldn't do that. So no point in doing it here either. As much it is a PIA to do the same thing twice in a row, it is the only course of actions to do it right and be done with it. With a new crush washer.


FJ 1100, 1985, sold
FJR 1300, 2009

mtc

Quote from: RPM - Robert on April 28, 2020, 01:59:16 PM
In order to replace the copper washer the fork must be disassemled as you have to hold the damper rod internally to loosen and tighten it. This 10mm (or 3/8") allen that you used is the bolt that is sealed by the copper washer.
any pictures, it's dark down there and far away to see anything

what is the tool to "hold" this damper is this it?
https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=27mmForkHolder

how long of an extension to get it down there?
do i need a vise? or just the work bench?

why would the washer suddenly leak?if it's a crush washer, can't i just try to tighten it some more?

i don't want  sound like a stupid person,
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

RPM - Robert

Yup that is the tool. You need about 17" of extension to clear the top of the fork tube with the tube all the way down.

This is the copper washer. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CopperForkGasket

I'm not even going to try and venture to why it is leaking as I don't know what was done and by who. Without having them in hand I wouldn't be able to guess accurately. Was the bolt loose to begin with, is the leg cracked (haven't seen it), who worked on them, did they over tighten it already, was the washer reused previously, did someone put an extra washer in there  (yes I have seen it), is it leaking from somewhere else?

No I would not try and tighten it more. It is a steel bolt into aluminum threads. Keep torquing it tighter and tighter and you are likely to pull the threads out then you are into a whole different can of worms.

You can likely do it on the bench with no vise but we have a special fork tube vise. I would also not put them directly in a standard vice as you are likely to gouge them up and ruin them. Aluminum soft jaws in a standard vise will work but again you need to be very careful about over tightening it to hold it and crushing the tube.

You will lose all the oil so drain them first. If not you will have a mess on your hands.

mtc

Quote from: RPM - Robert on April 28, 2020, 03:49:38 PM
Yup that is the tool. You need about 17" of extension to clear the top of the fork tube with the tube all the way down.

This is the copper washer. http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CopperForkGasket

I'm not even going to try and venture to why it is leaking as I don't know what was done and by who. Without having them in hand I wouldn't be able to guess accurately. Is the leg cracked, who worked on them, did they over tighten it already was the washer reused previously, did someone put an extra washer in there  ( yes I have seen it), is it leaking from somewhere else?

No I would not try and tighten it more. It is a steel bolt into aluminum threads. Keep torquing it tighter and tighter and you are likely to pull the threads out then you are into a whole different can of worms.

You can likely do it on the bench with no vise but we have a special fork tube vise. I would also not put them directly in a standard vice as you are likely to gouge them up and ruin them. Aluminum soft jaws in a standard vise will work but again you need to be very careful about over tightening it to hold it and crushing the tube.

You will lose all the oil so drain them first. If not you will have a mess on your hands.


thanks, it suddenly started leaking, i have the bike for a year with minimal riding,


i was reading a little

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17417.0

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4967.0

i was reading but i could not find it again that to install thr dampening adjuster on top has to index with the damper? how is that done?
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

mtc

Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire