'86 FJ1200, Just the Beginning

[ribbert]

[quote author=iWant2RideMyBike
When I turned the screw 3/4 of the way to the right I had some resistance, as if it was already near it's limit on how far it could be screwed outwards but I thought that they can be fully removed?...
- Gabe
[/quote]

Turning it to the right is screwing it in. The resistance you felt was it fully seated.
If you turn it to the left all the way it can be removed.

Noel

[JPaganel]

The thing about valve cover bolts is that they really need to be barely more than hand-tight. Exact torque does not matter, and tightening them more doesn't do anything. They are not compressing the cover gasket, they seat on the camshaft cap.

The seal depends on the tension of the gasket and the rubber donuts on the bolts.


The idle adjuster knob is metal and has ridges. You can turn it by carefully poking it with a long flathead screwdriver.

[FJmonkey]

The idle adjuster knob is metal and has ridges. You can turn it by carefully poking it with a long flathead screwdriver.

This method, if not done "carefully" as mentioned above, can bend the adjuster screw. 

[JPaganel]

This method, if not done "carefully" as mentioned above, can bend the adjuster screw. 

Do I detect the voice of experience?

[iWant2RideMyBike]

The thing about valve cover bolts is that they really need to be barely more than hand-tight. Exact torque does not matter, and tightening them more doesn't do anything. They are not compressing the cover gasket, they seat on the camshaft cap.

The seal depends on the tension of the gasket and the rubber donuts on the bolts.


The idle adjuster knob is metal and has ridges. You can turn it by carefully poking it with a long flathead screwdriver.

Yeah, I guess I learned that a little bit too late about the valve cover bolts. I'm not sure why I can't get the gasket to seat right. It's brand new, and hasn't saw more than 20 to 30 minutes of use. I was patient in slowly putting the cover down and making sure everything stayed lined up. We'll see if I can't get it the next time around. I plan on taking the cover off tomorrow to check the valve clearances one last time, so I'll have another opportunity to get it right.

- Gabe

[RPM - Robert]

Yeah, I guess I learned that a little bit too late about the valve cover bolts. I'm not sure why I can't get the gasket to seat right. It's brand new, and hasn't saw more than 20 to 30 minutes of use. I was patient in slowly putting the cover down and making sure everything stayed lined up. We'll see if I can't get it the next time around. I plan on taking the cover off tomorrow to check the valve clearances one last time, so I'll have another opportunity to get it right.

- Gabe

Gabe, the valve cover must be flat at the sealing surface, if it is not that could be the issue. Secondly, looking at the photos, there does not appear to be any threads in the #1 exhaust cam cap where the valve cover bolt screws into. It could just be the flash, but the threads in #2 are clearly visible.

And as already mentioned, if the valve cover bolt grommets are bad, they will not apply the proper tension to the valve cover gasket and it will leak. If they don't look like the new ones, they need to be replaced.

[JPaganel]

I'm not sure why I can't get the gasket to seat right. It's brand new, and hasn't saw more than 20 to 30 minutes of use. I was patient in slowly putting the cover down and making sure everything stayed lined up. We'll see if I can't get it the next time around. I plan on taking the cover off tomorrow to check the valve clearances one last time, so I'll have another opportunity to get it right.

- Gabe

Are you laying the gasket on the head and putting the cover on top? If so, that could be your problem.

The best way is to stick the gasket to the cover with something. Some people use silicone, but I like gasket shellac. That way, you are sure it's positioned correctly in the groove and is flat on the head.

[iWant2RideMyBike]

Are you laying the gasket on the head and putting the cover on top? If so, that could be your problem.

The best way is to stick the gasket to the cover with something. Some people use silicone, but I like gasket shellac. That way, you are sure it's positioned correctly in the groove and is flat on the head.

As a matter of fact, yes I am. I already used a little silicone on the machined recesses of the cylinder head. I'll carefully pry it up, clean up all the edges and try again, this time applying the gasket to the cover first. Is there a preferred way of getting old silicon off of cover/out of the grooves? I did notice the previous gasket left some behind. Maybe a scotch-brite pad and some elbow grease?

[JPaganel]

As a matter of fact, yes I am. I already used a little silicone on the machined recesses of the cylinder head. I'll carefully pry it up, clean up all the edges and try again, this time applying the gasket to the cover first. Is there a preferred way of getting old silicon off of cover/out of the grooves? I did notice the previous gasket left some behind. Maybe a scotch-brite pad and some elbow grease?

Scrape it with a credit card, or very stiff plastic brush. Maybe try gasket remover spray.

This is why I like shellac - it dissolves with rubbing alcohol. Nobody really uses it any more, it used to be a very oldschool gasket material, but stores always carry it.\

Chunks of old silicone are a good way to a new leak.

[iWant2RideMyBike]

Gabe, the valve cover must be flat at the sealing surface, if it is not that could be the issue. Secondly, looking at the photos, there does not appear to be any threads in the #1 exhaust cam cap where the valve cover bolt screws into. It could just be the flash, but the threads in #2 are clearly visible.

And as already mentioned, if the valve cover bolt grommets are bad, they will not apply the proper tension to the valve cover gasket and it will leak. If they don't look like the new ones, they need to be replaced.

Robert, that very well might be my problem then, because the cover absolutely does not sit flush without being bolted down. The furthest left corner (cylinder 1) bends upwards a few millimetres then the rest. Perhaps, just to cover my bases, I'll purchase all new grommets. I pulled the cover again today, to check my clearances one last time before shipping back the kit on Monday and it was a good thing that I did because 3 of the valves where still out of spec. Maybe I didn't fully seat the shims on those by accident. I'll try to get the cover on cleanly this time but if it still leaks I might have to buy a used valve cover or somethin. Fingers crossed.

[iWant2RideMyBike]

As a matter of fact, yes I am. I already used a little silicone on the machined recesses of the cylinder head. I'll carefully pry it up, clean up all the edges and try again, this time applying the gasket to the cover first. Is there a preferred way of getting old silicon off of cover/out of the grooves? I did notice the previous gasket left some behind. Maybe a scotch-brite pad and some elbow grease?

Scrape it with a credit card, or very stiff plastic brush. Maybe try gasket remover spray.

This is why I like shellac - it dissolves with rubbing alcohol. Nobody really uses it any more, it used to be a very oldschool gasket material, but stores always carry it.\

Chunks of old silicone are a good way to a new leak.

Okay, I'll give that a try! I've got a few old cards laying around and a stiff brush so I'll see what I can do.

[racerrad8]

Gabe, with the valve cover gasket not installed, does the valve cover sit completely flat on any flat surface?

Or is that corner raised?

If raised and not flat, you need a new valve cover.

Randy - RPM

[ribbert]

This is why I like shellac - it dissolves with rubbing alcohol. Nobody really uses it any more, it used to be a very oldschool gasket material, but stores always carry it.

Clearly it's not everyone's favourite, I found this on the net.....

"This is an absolutely true story, I can still remember my excitement the first time I pulled an engine apart that had been assembled with silicone, it was that big a deal. I just picked up one corner and the whole thing lifted off, it was crankcase halves on a motorbike.  The shellac for engine use is impervious to solvents and has to be scraped, often in place. The bottle had a twisted wire stem with a mop on the end to paint it on with, there was no finesse in the application of it, it got slopped everywhere. I still see plenty of old cars with runs of it down the sides of joins. You've got no idea what it was like working full time on cars and bikes put together with that shit."

Noel

[JPaganel]

Clearly it's not everyone's favourite, I found this on the net.....

"This is an absolutely true story, I can still remember my excitement the first time I pulled an engine apart that had been assembled with silicone, it was that big a deal. I just picked up one corner and the whole thing lifted off, it was crankcase halves on a motorbike.  The shellac for engine use is impervious to solvents and has to be scraped, often in place. The bottle had a twisted wire stem with a mop on the end to paint it on with, there was no finesse in the application of it, it got slopped everywhere. I still see plenty of old cars with runs of it down the sides of joins. You've got no idea what it was like working full time on cars and bikes put together with that shit."

Noel

I can tell you about the many times I had to pick chunks of silicone off of everywhere in the engine. Never ever had it "lift off in a sheet".

Nobody says you have to slop it around.

[ribbert]

Clearly it's not everyone's favourite, I found this on the net.....

"This is an absolutely true story, I can still remember my excitement the first time I pulled an engine apart that had been assembled with silicone, it was that big a deal. I just picked up one corner and the whole thing lifted off, it was crankcase halves on a motorbike.  The shellac for engine use is impervious to solvents and has to be scraped, often in place. The bottle had a twisted wire stem with a mop on the end to paint it on with, there was no finesse in the application of it, it got slopped everywhere. I still see plenty of old cars with runs of it down the sides of joins. You've got no idea what it was like working full time on cars and bikes put together with that shit."

Noel

I can tell you about the many times I had to pick chunks of silicone off of everywhere in the engine. Never ever had it "lift off in a sheet".

Nobody says you have to slop it around.

Quite right, I agree entirely.

Noel