FEKEDYNUTSHITE! Exhaust fitting problem

[Chaz66]

Don't you just love those days when you get into the garage to do what in theory should be a simple job and it turns out to be a complete pig!

Here's my problem, partly self inflicted as it's obvious with hindsight that this wouldn't work

1991 3XW with a Thunder Ace rear wheel conversion. Bought it about a month ago and it came fitted with overly loud race cans so I bought brand new, hand built stainless ones from the UK FJ owners club. Can you see where this is going yet? The new cans don't clear the T/A swingarm. I haven't looked at the RHS yet, but on the left there's a plastic chain guard near the pivot point that's not allowing me to get the angle I need, and even if I cut this off I still don't think it'd give me enough room. The new cans have a built in connector (one piece from rear to collector box, like the originals) so I've no wiggle room with this.

I'm anticipating some of your answers already, but rather than ramble on here can I just ask for your advice on how to proceed with this. I've dropped Phil and Ernie a line at the club, but it's a Sunday so I'm not expecting a response from them today. Anyone reading this in the UK with a standard swinger who needs new exhausts keep an eye on this post as there could be a deal heading your way.

[racerrad8]

The stock mufflers and pattern muffler will not fit with the wider swing arm.

Some have used deklevic mufflers.

The RPM Ultra-Lightweight S/S Exhaust System will fit without issue.

Randy - RPM

[red]

1991 3XW with a Thunder Ace rear wheel conversion. Bought it about a month ago and it came fitted with overly loud race cans so I bought brand new, hand built stainless ones from the UK FJ owners club. Can you see where this is going yet? The new cans don't clear the T/A swingarm. I haven't looked at the RHS yet, but on the left there's a plastic chain guard near the pivot point that's not allowing me to get the angle I need, and even if I cut this off I still don't think it'd give me enough room. The new cans have a built in connector (one piece from rear to collector box, like the originals) so I've no wiggle room with this.

Chaz,

Selling what you have is one option, sure, but you may have similar problems with almost any replacement mufflers.

I have no experience in the UK, but in the USA, many muffler shops have tubing benders that can modify (or create) connecting tubes from anywhere to anything.  You'd need an experienced tech with a can-do attitude, at a well-stocked shop, but some of those people are amazing.

Alternately, they may be able to add to the "stuffing" in your existing racing mufflers to tone down the exhaust noise levels, without reducing power output more than the alternative mufflers available.  That option would leave you free to sell the new mufflers as they are, to one who can use them.

My US$.02 worth . . .
.

[Pat Conlon]

I use Cobra F1R's with the oem collector box and here's how I get clearance with my T-Ace swinger.

1) Space out the aluminum side brackets to get clearance.
On the mounting bolts, put some washers between the brackets and frame.
Experiment with the # of washers you need.

2) Reverse the muffler mounting bolts. Get a low profile button head bolt, put the button head on the inside against the swing arm and use an acorn nut on the outside.

Here's what it looks like from the outside: (the picture shows my old Cobra F1's)

3) I needed to take my belt sander and shave down my passenger foot peg mounting bolts and nuts so they did not gouge the top outside edge of the aluminum swinger when the swinger is up under full compression.

4) Special care is needed with the rear brake line fitting at the master cylinder. A special banjo fitting with the stem coming off the top of the round part is needed to keep the brake line away from the swinger.
I use the A4 fitting: (picture is just for illustration purposes, I use Spiegler fittings and lines)



Sorry, I can't help you with your choice of mufflers....

[Chaz66]

Thanks for the input so far guys, much appreciated.

One of your systems would be great Randy, though the cost plus the postage and possible import duty to get it here to the UK put's it quite a bit above my budget at the moment.

[racerrad8]

Red, unfortunately, the mid pipe on those muffler is a S/S taper/cone that is part of the muffler. To modify, he would need to find someone proficient in TIG welding and have the ability to fabricate a different angle mid-pipe configuration.

I forgot about Pat's Cobra's. (not sure how I could to that...)

Chaz, don't forget there is a big sale coming up at the end if the month, 2019 RPM Holiday Sale

Plus we always work with the international customers to keep the VAT/Duty fees to a minimum.

Randy - RPM

[Chaz66]

Oh! Sale!! One of my favourite 4 letter words

[GS Jockey]

Chaz, I bought one of Randy's rear shocks for my 3CV a couple of years back, cost a bit more than the exhaust. IIRC, the charges at this end were about £56.00, if that's any help.

Just checked, £56.58.

[Tuned forks]

Chaz, I bought one of Randy's rear shocks for my 3CV a couple of years back, cost a bit more than the exhaust. IIRC, the charges at this end were about £56.00, if that's any help.

Just checked, £56.58.

Although it's substantial coin, the rear shock and front fork rebuild using RPM parts literally transforms the motorcycle into something much more enjoyable to ride.

Joe