1984 fj1100 questions

[teg]

I have purchased a 1984 fj1100 that was in need of some love (been sitting for a few years).  I have done a valve adjustment, removed and cleaned carbs, new carb boots, new chain and sprockets, and a few other little things.  Still have lots to do.

My questions are:

Reading and research has led me to realize that the carburetor is not the correct one for this bike.  It is a gravity fed system, but this bike has a carb that only has one small feed line in the center of carb 2 and 3.   It actually seems to run fairly good (other than a high idle once warm).  Will this cause the bike to run lean since it can't get as much fuel?  Is there a way to purchase the nipple fittings between the carb bank to turn this into the correct style?

Also, this bike seems to ride like a brick.  Very heavy feeling in turns.  Is this the nature of this bike or should I just go ahead a do head bearings?   The bike has 25000 miles on it (or that's what the odometer shows) so I wouldn't have thought they would be bad yet. 

[Millietant]

Heavy feeling in turns....I'd look into the tyres (condition, pressure, size) first, then things like steering head bearings and suspension condition.

[T Legg]

An 84 fj is not heavy in steering.I bought one that was.after putting new tires on it still was.when I checked the steering bearings they were not bad just adjusted to tightly.now it handles as good as my other fj.

[Flynt]

I have an '84...  your carbs are off a later model, but the internal difference is limited to float bowl needles and seats (might be done already) along with the fuel rail going from 2 inlets to one.  You should make it right... petcock, fittings, hose, routing, ...  the fueling on these gravity fed bikes is sketchy, but works if all is right (and you're not neglecting your carbs...  you might want the RPM carb rebuild = shortcut to happy bike).

Handling on my '84 is very good I'd say...  it isn't an S1000RR, but then neither am I.  I definitely wouldn't call it a brick, but it benefits from a strong hand!  You could (do) have low/old/crap tires, sacked suspension (unless upgraded already), bad head bearings, alignment problems, etc...  or just undersized ball bearings.  

Frank

PS - seriously...  start with tire pressure/condition and work out from there...  alignment, shocks, bearings, etc.

[teg]

Thanks for the input.  Tires are in good shape and pressure was checked.  Still plan on changing the tires before I do any long rides just because they have an old manufacturing date.  Fellow I bought it from said he had a shop do the front fork seals.  So no leaks and doesn't feel squishy.  I did notice that there is no locking tab on the head bearing nuts and that they are not aligned with each other.  So someone has been messing with it.  I'll get the bike off the ground and check the steering tension.  While there guess I will check the front wheel bearings as well. 

I've only rode this bike a handful of times since buying it.  So I really didn't know the handling characteristics of this bike.  My everyday rider was a 2005 Yamaha FZ6 (which I recently sold to a friend), so it was lightweight and nimble.  But my other rider is an 84 Honda Vf1100s.  So it's another classic bike and rides wonderful, not so much light and nimble, but nice.  But from reading on here and online people love their FJ's and love riding them.  So hopefully I will get mine sorted out so I can start loving it as well.

Just picked up a set of carbs off eBay today that is from a gravity fed 86 fj1200.   Hopefully there is not much difference between 84 and 86.  Maybe between the two I can make something that belongs on my bike and makes it happy.  Will be buying some carb parts from RPM soon.  Will also need to figure out the correct jetting since the bike has k&n pods and a 4 into 1 exhaust. 

[Flynt]

What kind of tires are mounted?  What pressure are you running?  I'd still say your problem might be there...

Have you checked rear shock and alignment?  Soft shock/spring might make the rear ride low and induce brick behavior...  bad alignment makes it a brick in one direction at least.

It will take some getting used to like any bike, but it shouldn't feel brick like unless something's wrong and it's mostly going to be tires that fix it I think.  Avon makes an AV45** for the front and a 3D Storm for the rear...  that combo gets you radial tires and very good handling in 16" size.  I don't know about any of the other offerings, but my Avon shod '84 is nothing like a brick...

Frank

** - the tire went out of production and no 16" 3D Storm replacement for the front yet, but I think AV45s are still available with a 2-3yo date code and still useable.

[Pat Conlon]

Yes, listen to Frank. A sacked out 35 year old shock will cause the back end to sit lower and the bike will want to run wide in corners. The 1984 FJ shock spring was weak the day it left Japan, same with the fork springs.
New tires. New fork springs. New back shock. Get the back end raised up 2"...then re-evaluate.
Service the shock linkage. They don't have needle bearings like the '86 and later FJ's do, they have nyloc bushings which need grease.

Replacing the back shock is #1 on my list of mods, a close second are the fork springs

Cheers.  Pat.

[chiz]

When I first got my bike I could not believe how it handled compared to my 98 Honda ST 1100 which was the most stable thing I have ever ridden. My FJ was bleeping horrible and scary it Had Lazer tech tires on at the time I feel if I had  changed the tyres I probably would have been reluctant to do anything else.. BUUUUTTT I went and did all the mods wheels, forks shock. valving, springs brakes. It became something that inspired confidence and wasn't scary anymore, I don't think the same level would have been reached though just with a good set of tyres
Chiz

[teg]

Definitely plan on upgrades for this bike along with new tires (soon).  Might take a little time to get it all done since I have a family and can't splurge for everything at once.   Little by little. 

The tires on it now are metzeler lasertec.  No dry rot or cracking, but probably old.  Pressure in tires 36 ish front 38 rear.

Guess I got so adapted to the handeling of my fz6, so like chiz said, it is kinda scary the way this thing handles.  Feels like it likes to follow the road cracks and road imperfections more than my other bikes. But at least I know there is hope for it and with a little love and a pocket full of cash I can get to where it needs to be.  The great thing so far about this bike is you can still find a lot of parts for it.   

So after tires should I start rear shock, or do front springs.  Planing on a little bearing mantainence to make sure all is well.

[teg]

[balky1]

Definitely plan on upgrades for this bike along with new tires (soon).  Might take a little time to get it all done since I have a family and can't splurge for everything at once.   Little by little. 

The tires on it now are metzeler lasertec.  No dry rot or cracking, but probably old.  Pressure in tires 36 ish front 38 rear.

Guess I got so adapted to the handeling of my fz6, so like chiz said, it is kinda scary the way this thing handles.  Feels like it likes to follow the road cracks and road imperfections more than my other bikes. But at least I know there is hope for it and with a little love and a pocket full of cash I can get to where it needs to be.  The great thing so far about this bike is you can still find a lot of parts for it.   

So after tires should I start rear shock, or do front springs.  Planing on a little bearing mantainence to make sure all is well.

I have the same 'problem' with those tires.

[Tuned forks]

Teg, I've "splurged" for the whole RPM suspension parts.  Faced with your question of front or rear first, I'd recommend neither.  Buy new tires first.  Probably best to wait until spring time now.  Only after you have fresh and good quality rubber can you properly evaluate your suspension.  Spend the winter adjusting your valves, synchronizing your carbs, clean or replace the chain, lube the cables, safety wire the fuel petcock, etc.  My 2 cents.

Joe

[red]

Definitely plan on upgrades for this bike along with new tires (soon).  Might take a little time to get it all done since I have a family and can't splurge for everything at once.   Little by little.  The tires on it now are metzeler lasertec.  No dry rot or cracking, but probably old.  Pressure in tires 36 ish front 38 rear.
Guess I got so adapted to the handeling of my fz6, so like chiz said, it is kinda scary the way this thing handles.  Feels like it likes to follow the road cracks and road imperfections more than my other bikes. But at least I know there is hope for it and with a little love and a pocket full of cash I can get to where it needs to be.  The great thing so far about this bike is you can still find a lot of parts for it.   
So after tires should I start rear shock, or do front springs.  Planing on a little bearing mantainence to make sure all is well.

Teg,

I dumped my old tires (Metzeler) and switched to Pirelli Sport Demons.  Amazing difference!  They provided real confidence in turning, with very little "tracking" in road grooves.  On a heavy and strong bike like the FJ, I think that tires are done after five to seven years, no matter how much tread they have then.  Avon made sport radials in 16" size, but I don't know if they do now.   I run on F39/R42 psi.  Tire age decoder (click and scroll down) -

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11

I prefer non-ethanol gas for my FJ1100.  Ethanol gas can separate after some time, and gum up the carbs.  Find that good non-ethanol gas here:

https://www.pure-gas.org/

RPM makes a dedicated replacement rear shock; cleaning and adjusting the front forks is recommended for renewing any stored bike.  I would do the front end first.
.

[PaulG]

Definitely plan on upgrades for this bike along with new tires (soon).  Might take a little time to get it all done since I have a family and can't splurge for everything at once.   Little by little. 

The tires on it now are metzeler lasertec.  No dry rot or cracking, but probably old.  Pressure in tires 36 ish front 38 rear.

Guess I got so adapted to the handeling of my fz6, so like chiz said, it is kinda scary the way this thing handles.  Feels like it likes to follow the road cracks and road imperfections more than my other bikes. But at least I know there is hope for it and with a little love and a pocket full of cash I can get to where it needs to be.  The great thing so far about this bike is you can still find a lot of parts for it.   

So after tires should I start rear shock, or do front springs.  Planing on a little bearing mantainence to make sure all is well.

I have the same 'problem' with those tires.

The Metzler Lasertechs being bias ply will have a tendency to be more sensitive to the tar snakes and other imperfections.  The tread pattern hasn't changed for decades.   I went through two sets of these.  They are a good high mileage touring tire and good in the rain.  You just have to be aware of it's limitations.  I'm running Avon Storm 3D XM radials now.  You can still get the rear in 16".  Completely different ride too.  More grip, much smoother ride, tar snakes etc. not an issue.  I haven't put as much mileage on them since I bought them (3 seasons?), so not sure of their durability, but so far so good.

[balky1]

Definitely plan on upgrades for this bike along with new tires (soon).  Might take a little time to get it all done since I have a family and can't splurge for everything at once.   Little by little. 

The tires on it now are metzeler lasertec.  No dry rot or cracking, but probably old.  Pressure in tires 36 ish front 38 rear.

Guess I got so adapted to the handeling of my fz6, so like chiz said, it is kinda scary the way this thing handles.  Feels like it likes to follow the road cracks and road imperfections more than my other bikes. But at least I know there is hope for it and with a little love and a pocket full of cash I can get to where it needs to be.  The great thing so far about this bike is you can still find a lot of parts for it.   

So after tires should I start rear shock, or do front springs.  Planing on a little bearing mantainence to make sure all is well.

I have the same 'problem' with those tires.

The Metzler Lasertechs being bias ply will have a tendency to be more sensitive to the tar snakes and other imperfections.  The tread pattern hasn't changed for decades.   I went through two sets of these.  They are a good high mileage touring tire and good in the rain.  You just have to be aware of it's limitations.  I'm running Avon Storm 3D XM radials now.  You can still get the rear in 16".  Completely different ride too.  More grip, much smoother ride, tar snakes etc. not an issue.  I haven't put as much mileage on them since I bought them (3 seasons?), so not sure of their durability, but so far so good.

Don't get me wrong, I love how they handle in corners and wet weather. I was just saying I've noticed the 'following problem'. Not a real problem actually, since you can use them from edge to edge. Yes, age of the tire is a problem if that tire was mounted and sitting in bad conditions (sun, rain, moisture, salt...). As for the new ones, I've never had a problem with tires that were 2-3 years old at the time of installation (that's mostly what you get when buying a new tire in Croatia in these old dimensions).